Javelin wrote: The internals are definitely cringe-inducing. I'm not surprised it ran, but am surprised it ran so well!
I don't think it ran well. I think Bob was/is grossly exaggerating the amount of power it made considering he was coming from a Suzuki Swift before this car. 
I'd be highly surprised if it made more than 150whp. 
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:Javelin wrote: The internals are definitely cringe-inducing. I'm not surprised it ran, but am surprised it ran so well!I don't think it ran well. I think Bob was/is grossly exaggerating the amount of power it made considering he was coming from a Suzuki Swift before this car.
THat's what I've been saying all along.... but is till made 250tq which is what made it go sideways so easy! Once it got past 4000rpms it was dead.
Bobzilla wrote: My first 3 oil changes I did every 200-500 miles and every one came out black and chunky.
(whine) Why didn't you film it!!!?!? (/whine)
I was embarassed and I was so greasy from getting under it I would have covered that camera in oil/fluids.
Crappy picture, but it looks phenom. Unfortunately I looked at all the aluminum accessory brackets and started crying. 24 years of oxidized aluminum coated in grease, oil and dirt. Crap.
Chuck the accessory brackets into a sand blaster or else scrub them down with Dawn and brass wire (wheels or brushes). They clean right up. 
I have always used brass wire wheels.... but there are a lot of brackets to clean up.... I should have been working on that while I was waiting on the engine... damn me and my laziness!
Bob i have access to a sandblaster. Might be using it on Sunday. I'll text you if i am and i can pick up the stuff you want done Sunday morning maybe.
that would rock... but don't text me because I'll never get it.
OK... first the pikturs.
So, the good news: Engine is in, C-beam is in and it's all bolted down. Starter, headers are in their final location, clutch line and new slave areall in etc. Big progress made today after a few ... um.... "issues".
First issue I ran into this morning were bent pushrods....yep. I followed the FSM to a "T" and adjusted the rockers down as it said and turned the engine over by hand and"PING". Look over andthere's a bent push rod. berkeley.... turn it a little farther and "PING!" E36 M3. So I yank the rockers loose, pull the new Comp push rods and clean the old stock pushrods and install them then adjust them the way I've always adjusted roller hydraulic cams and nobent push rods. One problem caught and fixed.
Second issue: Dist drive gear is almost sheared clean smooth....so it's time to order a new distributor. I thought about just getting a new gear, then looked at the pickup and module and both look 24 years old and brittle. By the time I get a new pickup, module and gear I could have a new dist with new bearings as well.There's another $150 down the tube!
Third issue is routing the water return hose from the heater core. The old TPI intake ran the return hose to the throttle body, then out the t/b into the intake right beside the thermostat. This one doesn't do that and only has 2 holes for the two sensors that are in the front which ties into issue number four.....
The throttle body won't fit because the water outlet hits the thermostat housing. So since I am not routing water through the t/b, I cut the hose barbs off with the cutoff wheel and then ground down the new opening and cleanedthem up to look as close to stock as I could.
So much work!
Worked until almost 11 last night. Got the Pwer steering setup back together, new pump, hoses etc. All the accessory brackets installed with the AIR pump delete kit and the belt installed to make sure it is the right size. Also got the hose routing figured out and layed out for hte heater core lines and the waterpump installed. Tonight I'll get the intake sealed down, sensors installed and fuel lines installed with new filter. That only leaves..... a E36 M3 ton left to do....
Brackets look good.
So lemme get this straight... you had the front end basically pulled apart, with no motor in it, and you didn't clean up the engine bay a bit?
For shame!
Seems he has his priorities straight to me.
It was immobile for too long with the control arms torn apart. I did the best I could with a CASE of brake cleaner and a brush. That IS clean compared to what I started with.
With the first auto-x of the season coming up in 8 days.... I'm thinking I am not going to make it.
I'll tell you what though, deleting the AIR pump took out a LOT of crap up top. I think there are more brackets left over than I ended up using!
This weekend was going great. Got the oil pump primed, harness connected, connectors fixed/replaced, miscsensors installed, driveshaft finished and installed, trans linkages done, coolant hoses/radiator done, intake down, fuel lines finished up and routed.... dropped the distributor in and I'm missing something.....
Crap. The connector that runs from the main harness to the ignition module for the ECU to control the timing I left on the old core. Went to Oreally's to see if the core was still there.... it's been gone for a while.
So..... I'm looking for one used because the ONLY 2 left are on eBay new for $125.
Bobzilla wrote: Crap. The connector that runs from the main harness to the ignition module for the ECU to control the timing I left on the old core. Went to Oreally's to see if the core was still there.... it's been gone for a while.
Crappppp! I had that same thing happen to me with the front brakes on the LS400 .. the replacement rebuilt passenger side caliper came with the wrong mounting bracket (driver's side bracket on passenger side caliper), and I had returned the core when I bought the caliper. E36 M3! I ended up having to order one off of Rock Auto after three exchanges at Napa all had the same bracket.
Somewhere I picture a dude with a collection of passenger side caliper brackets hanging on the wall.
Hey, how is the 4+3 transmission to live with? I've started to soften in my view of the C4 'vette, and the 4+3 ones are a lot cheaper than the later 6-speed ones...
If the 4+3 works, it's pretty easy. I turn off the OD when I start, shift 1-4 like normal then clutch, hit swithc to engage the OD in 4th and go. I use it like a 5th gear. Auto-x is 1-2, OD off and run 2nd gear the entire course. The torque makes it great to dig out of low rpm corners. But then again the L98 doesn't know what "high rpms" are.
FInally.....
Took almost 2 weeks to track one down. But now I should be able fire it up TONIGHT. finally.
Congrats! I hope that there are no more hiccups.
you and me both....
Well, there were more hiccups... no suprises there. That distributor was from a HD series truck. No problem, right? Plugs are different. Had to shave a tab. Got it plugged in, got fuel pressure and 4 leaks. Fine... let's make sure she cranks. Hit hte clutch and turn the key.......nothin'. Looks like the clutch swithc is likely bad or mis aligned.
So I got the exhaust hung/connected and tonight I'll tackle the leaks and clutch swithc.
It's alive! http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/bobnjenmiller/?action=view¤t=SDC10275.mp4
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/bobnjenmiller/?action=view¤t=SDC10274.mp4/
Still need to set the base timing and base fuel pressure tonight, and let the car run in gear to cycle the overdrive unit and get the fluid topped off.
So, list of completed things this year: New p/s pump, rack, hoses, fluid. Clutch master, slave and line. Rebuilt engine, .030 over, 10.5:1, cam with .512 lift, miniram, 24lb injectors, coated long tube headers, EGR delete, AIR Pump delete,small cap HEI, opened air box. All new upper andlower control arms, balljoints, bushings, New radio with USB and AUX inputs, rear 6x9's and front 5.25's (still to be installed, PITA Blose boxes up front suck donkey balls)
Awesome! Anxious to hear how it runs.
RIGHT NOW.... on 7 cylinders. Argh.....
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