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tuna55
tuna55 UltimaDork
4/21/15 11:32 a.m.

It's not strictly GRM, but I think you'll have some good opinions.

Assume Loctite Heavy Duty is crap for temperatures about 500 F

Assume we want the stuff to be good to 1000 F

Pretty much assume we want it to pass MIL-PRF-907F, with really big bolts (2" max diameter, which is about 5500 lb ft).

What's the absolute best antiseize out there?

Unfortunately, I won't be able to publish the results of our testing.

tjbell
tjbell Reader
4/21/15 11:38 a.m.

What about the copper based anti-seize? any idea on the temp rating for that

tuna55
tuna55 UltimaDork
4/21/15 11:44 a.m.
tjbell wrote: What about the copper based anti-seize? any idea on the temp rating for that
Armite wrote: This Copper based Anti-Seize compound offers good protection on all kinds of steel, but not stainless steel. Copper and stainless steel creates an intercrystaline corrosion, which can make actual stainless steel parts crack & break. When copper anti-seize compounds were first developed, they were formulated to "do the job" and many compounds included a small portion of copper. Although copper does contribute to the technical performance of the product, because of its coloring capacity it wrongly gives the impression that it is the prime constituent. This misconception led to the belief that any copper-colored grease or grease containing copper is an effective anti-seize compound. The original formulation for anti-seize necessarily included a high portion of pure metallic lead, but its inclusion has become less acceptable in recent years. This has given rise to a large number of copper-colored greases. Armite on the other hand, formulated CP-2000 copper based anti-seize are made with the highest quality ingredients to retain the critical property of anti-seize ³film strength². More importantly, our manufacturing process itself is superior ensuring our compound remains on the treated parts in sufficient concentrations to ensure its effectiveness.

So I don't think there is any magic to the copper stuff. We'll test a few varieties, but we've learned that the 'rated' temperature isn't really useful, and the rated temperature of copper stuff doesn't look special.

fasted58
fasted58 UltimaDork
4/21/15 11:47 a.m.

C&P from Permatex site:

Permatex® Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant

A premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant that may be used to prevent seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist. Contains a high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-synthetic grease carrier and is fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors. Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F (-34°C to 982°C). Provides good electrical conductivity. Meets Mil Spec #907E.

tuna55
tuna55 UltimaDork
4/21/15 11:48 a.m.

OK, I can read specs about as well as anyone, and I see that lots of products (including what we use today) say they are good for otherwordly temperatures, but in reality none live up to that.

So I am looking for real experiences.

fasted58
fasted58 UltimaDork
4/21/15 11:49 a.m.

Well, uh sorry then

tuna55
tuna55 UltimaDork
4/21/15 11:53 a.m.
fasted58 wrote: Well, uh sorry then

No worries. My fault for not being specific.

T.J.
T.J. PowerDork
4/21/15 12:00 p.m.
JtspellS
JtspellS SuperDork
4/21/15 12:00 p.m.

I've used copper anti-seize on the threads of my plugs on my RX8 and it was still present on replacement if that helps at all (had about 32k or so on them)

JohnRW1621
JohnRW1621 UltimaDork
4/21/15 12:08 p.m.

http://www.certifiedlabs.com/certified/productView_byName.asp?country=USA&language_id=4&pName=LOK-CEASE+20%2F20+AEROSOL

I have never "bought" the stuff but I have a partial jar and it is fantastic. I got it from a friend who is a diesel mechanic for a municipality. They must get it through some sort of industrial supply.

The bottle I have here says effective temps from -10F to 2,300F and pressures up to 3,000 psi.
Added bonus: Food Grade Formula. Suitable for use with incidental food contact in Federally inspected meat and poultry plants.
Bottle says: re-order: 1-800-527-9929
www.certifiedlabs.com

In gerneral, the stuff is a white with the consistence sort of like Crisco.

Edit: you said you need 5,000 lb ft. and this is 3,000 psi.
The internet tells me that 3,000 psi is equal to 432,000 lb ft so you should be okay in that spec.
I don't know anything about MIL-Spec.

Edit: I found this that says meets or exceeds MIL Spec A-907-E (but I don't know what that means.)
https://www.certifiedlabs.in/Product%20Technical%20Specification/5588_LOKCEASE_AEROSOL-TS_31July2013.pdf
Specific metal temps: http://www.certilab.com.au/Product%20Technical%20Specification/Lok%20Cease2020.pdf

foxtrapper
foxtrapper UltimaDork
4/21/15 1:00 p.m.

Depends on the metals and the temperatures.

Anyhow, here's an entertainingly odd one for you. Milk of Magnesia. Used on jet engines.

tester
tester
4/21/15 1:31 p.m.

In reply to tuna55:

Are you using Loctite LB N-5000? It is different than their regular high temp anti seize.

Wolfrakote top paste might be another option.

Cone_Junkie
Cone_Junkie SuperDork
4/21/15 1:55 p.m.

Wurth CU1100 copper anti seize is rated to 2100*F (according to label)

HappyAndy
HappyAndy UltraDork
4/21/15 3:31 p.m.

I love antiseize, I use it like Franks hot sauce. In reality, hot sauce doesn't go with absolutely everything, sometimes you need something sweet or buttery or sour. The situation may be comparable with your fasteners Tuna.

For example, is the problem being caused by the heat, or the friction of the torque on the threads? One of my clients is a company that specializes in large specialty fasteners for iron and steel construction work. They recently had a QA problem with a batch of nuts and bolts. The nuts and bolts both had some kind of coating applied to them, as per the end users specs. The bolts and nuts passed all of my clients in house inspections and tests, but failed the end-users testing. It turned out the problem was related to the coating, yes the coating that the end user specified. It turns out they needed to use a different slightly oversized tap on the nuts that were going to be coated. The difference was so small that my clients testing equipment didn't pick up the difference, But in the field the parts didn't torque down right.

I've also seen that some of the newest style spark plugs have the last few millimeters of the threads smooth instead of threaded, this is supposed to help reduce plugs getting seized into the threads on the head. The theory is that carbon sticks to the very last few threads on the end of the spark plug in the combustion chamber. The carbon is harder than the aluminum cylinder head and it jams up in between the threads of the plug and the threads of the head causing seizure and damage. By having the last bit of the plugs smooth, instead of threaded, the carbon has less to stick to. It seems to work. I've never had a stuck plug on a head using that style plug, and the ones installed at the factory do not use antiseize.

I guess what I'm saying is, if you don't find an antiseize that works, but can determine why its seizing, there may be other ways to solve the problem.

Cone_Junkie
Cone_Junkie SuperDork
4/21/15 3:33 p.m.

The problem with using anti seize on spark plugs is that you reduce the heat sink capabilities of the threads. I no longer use it on spark plugs, but I do use a torque wrench on them religiously.

oldopelguy
oldopelguy SuperDork
4/21/15 4:00 p.m.

We used something called neolube on stainless steam valves for the nuclear reactor when I was in the canoe club. Not a lot more than graphite in solution, but it worked well.

Hungary Bill
Hungary Bill GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
4/21/15 4:36 p.m.

We use loctite 51007 on the ignitors in Pratt and Whitney PW2000 (Mil Des F117) engines. They're almsot 2" in diameter and I figure if this stuff will take the heat of the combustion section of a 757 or a C-17 then it should be good for anything we could ever need.

We don't change ignitors but once a year maybe (inspection at 180 days). The compound gets a bit "thick" and gritty, but I've seen the results of NOT using it, and they aren't pretty.

It also meets your Mil-PRF-907F

Cheers!

44Dwarf
44Dwarf UltraDork
4/21/15 4:51 p.m.

I used to use Dry Moly powder mixed in Isopropyl Alcohol in the high vacuum chambers where everything is 304/318 SS on 304/318 SS talk about gaul city if you didn't use it... Most chambers were run a 400C but being in a vacuum heat travel differently so you can have huge temp differences in the chamber. We use this same spray to lube spindle bearings weekly. http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01006002&type=PROD

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
4/21/15 4:58 p.m.

We use Permatex Nickel Anti-Seize (77124) for F.U. items. Rated to 2400F, and is explicitly for use in extreme pressure and temperature, with titanium, stainless steel, and nickel alloys, and where the copper contamination must be avoided. (Yeah, I just read off the label.)

IIRC we first got it because it is what Ford calls out for the 10mm spark plugs in the 3v Mod motors.

wbjones
wbjones MegaDork
4/21/15 6:28 p.m.
Cone_Junkie wrote: The problem with using anti seize on spark plugs is that you reduce the heat sink capabilities of the threads. I no longer use it on spark plugs, but I do use a torque wrench on them religiously.

hopefully you're not putting plugs in Ford 4.6 or 5.4's … LOL

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
4/21/15 6:41 p.m.
wbjones wrote:
Cone_Junkie wrote: The problem with using anti seize on spark plugs is that you reduce the heat sink capabilities of the threads. I no longer use it on spark plugs, but I do use a torque wrench on them religiously.
hopefully you're not putting plugs in Ford 4.6 or 5.4's … LOL

Antisieze won't really help you there.

And, really, any time I've encountered a stuck spark plug, it wasn't because the threads were stuck to the head. It was because carbon on the end of the spark plug was preventing the plug from coming out. Again, anti-sieze won't help you there either.

I put anti-sieze on plugs at work, because I'm told to and I don't think it really hurts anything. I don't put anti-sieze on my personal cars' plugs, because I don't think it actually does anything. Have never had an issue.

wbjones
wbjones MegaDork
4/21/15 6:44 p.m.

my Ford mechanic would be willing to argue with you about that … I mentioned both engines because I couldn't remember which ones had the spark plug breaking problem .. the 5.4 3valve maybe … tips not fouled … plugs break .. special tool needed

though he told me that Ford has "fixed" the problem with new spec plugs

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
4/21/15 6:57 p.m.

The problem with those is that the plugs were two piece and there was a looong section between the threads and the actual combustion chamber that was a very close fit to the head material. The threads come out fine, it's the rest of the plug that stays in the head, and you can't put antisieze on that because it will just get burned out and/or run down and foul the plug.

Fueled by Caffeine
Fueled by Caffeine MegaDork
4/21/15 7:05 p.m.
Hungary Bill wrote: We use loctite 51007 on the ignitors in Pratt and Whitney PW2000 (Mil Des F117) engines. They're almsot 2" in diameter and I figure if this stuff will take the heat of the combustion section of a 757 or a C-17 then it should be good for anything we could ever need.

If you are working with an Overhauled Combustor on an F117.... I used to run that shop and my guys did the work. Seems like a lifetime ago................................

djsilver
djsilver Reader
4/21/15 7:07 p.m.

Loctite and Never-Seez

We use loctite heavy duty metal free on gas turbines. I think it's a moly paste and rated for 2400f.

Swagelok silver Goop

Swagelok is great for stainless steel, but pricey, as it uses silver as a lubricant.

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