Anyone Here Rebuild Their Own Alternators

I am seriously considering picking up a Ford Focus for a Rally-X car.

The one I am looking at has a has a bum alternator.

Instead of dropping $200-$250 on a reman, can I do it myself? Parts source for doing this?

Many alternators have replaceable voltage regulators. If the alternator isn't noisy or locked up or giving any other indication of a bad bearing , chances are a new VR will fix it, often very inexpensively. Bad bearings can sometimes be fixed too, but in most cases the effort vs the cost of a replacement with a warranty is not worth it.

Depends on what's wrong with it ...
Mechanical vs electrical, and your comfort with each.

I always drop my alternators and starters off at the local electric motor repair guys. Usually about $70 and takes a day

If it's a Zetec, it's more likely that the (small gauge) wiring going to it is broken. Have replaced quie a few pigtails.

I have been having excellent results from a local armature shop. Cheaper, and better by several orders of magnitude. Example: no fewer than 7 voltage regulators made in China= overcharging. One trip to a local armature shop = perfectly functioning charging system with a cleaner install. Support your old school craftsmen. One day we shall lament their extinction.

That, or rebuild it yourself.

chiodos wrote: I always drop my alternators and starters off at the local electric motor repair guys. Usually about $70 and takes a day

If you still have one of those, you are lucky.

My company has one that we do business with, mostly for high dollar industrial parts, they are good, but usually too expensive for every day parts.

Knurled wrote: If it's a Zetec, it's more likely that the (small gauge) wiring going to it is broken. Have replaced quie a few pigtails.

I've seen this exact problem on a lot of Toyota's, not just the alt plug, but all the connector plugs.

Knurled wrote: If it's a Zetec, it's more likely that the (small gauge) wiring going to it is broken. Have replaced quie a few pigtails.

Yep, check this first. Then check all the other connectors and grounds.

In reply to Knurled:

I think it is. It's an 05 in Canada so no 2.3L.

Thanks for the tip. When I get to chance to lay eyes on it, I will check that.

I don't think they were still using the Zetec as late as '05. Most Duratecs were 2-liter, too.

The problem with the Zetec alternator was the wiring was not very well secured/loomed too tight. It's also in a complete melonfarmer of a place to access on the top of the engine under the cowl.

The newest alternator I've had to deal with was from 1986, so I don't know if there's anything magical about newer ones. However, the older ones are really pretty simple - new bearings and brushes are pretty easy to install, and in most cases it's all you need.

In reply to Knurled: Okay, looking at the pics he sent, it does not say Zetec on the cam cover like most I have seen. Its plain black. So I am guessing that it is a Duratec 2.0L.

Easy way to tell - Duratec have the intake manifold up front and the exhaust by the firewall as per modern engine layout practice. Zetec have the exhaust up front and the intake by the firewall because it's a DOHC conversion of an old English engine.

this is one of those things that you only talk about fixing AFTER you have exchanged cash and you have the car in your possession and the signed title in your hand.. it might only be an easy $50 fix for you, but the seller can keep right on thinking that it's gonna cost $300 to fix it..

yeah, i've been told i'm evil. i can accept that.

In reply to novaderrik:

Oh don't worry, if I buy it, we will make the deal, the car will go on the dolly and I will haul it away. Fixes will occur at home.

I rebuilt the 1st on on my z28, they are quite easy, but finding the parts was such a pain in the ass, I just go buy a new or reman one and stick it on now.

Knurled wrote: Easy way to tell - Duratec have the intake manifold up front and the exhaust by the firewall as per modern engine layout practice. Zetec have the exhaust up front and the intake by the firewall because it's a DOHC conversion of an old English engine.

It's a Duratec. Engine configuration is you noted. Intake in front and exhaust out back.

I used to rebuild alternators as part of my job description. Biggest problem was worn brushes and an occasional bearing. The electronic parts were pretty reliable.

NGTD wrote:

Knurled wrote: Easy way to tell - Duratec have the intake manifold up front and the exhaust by the firewall as per modern engine layout practice. Zetec have the exhaust up front and the intake by the firewall because it's a DOHC conversion of an old English engine.

It's a Duratec. Engine configuration is you noted. Intake in front and exhaust out back.

Which means that alternator replacement will take ~1/2 the time it does on a Zetec.