Not sure MAPP is gonna be able to put enough heat into that flange. Oxy-Acetylene torch with a rosebud will, though.
Couple a ways to do that. Try to heat the flange and not soak the heat into the stud, so one grows more than the other. Another is to heat the whole 9 yards up, and quench it with a water hose till cool enough to touch, in an attempt to shock the rust into letting go 
. I've used that method on valves in industry... don't know if it would cause other problems in this case!
BTW, If you can't find any Kroil, PB Blaster is awesome stuff, as well, and will penetrate better than the ATF mix.
WonkoTheSane said:
thashane said:
In reply to WonkoTheSane :
Are those not just pressed in from the backside? (I don't own any GMs)
Unfortunately not. It would have been equal or less work for GM/Detroit to do that, but they didn't. They drilled and tapped the stud holes. They're blind.
Total bummer. My preference would be to weld a nut on and hit it with an impact with heat, until something breaks. May have to grind the threads/round the edges a little to get it started after the cut. I'd also wack them with a hammer, assuming how supported the manifold is.
So I started with the stud that I estimated had the greatest chance of failure and I experienced.... Failure!
I wasn't able to clear the stuff at the base of this studs like I was able to clear off the other two, and I'm wondering if some previous dumbass was as stupid as I am. Check out this stud, it was like it was only connected via the globs of metal on the outside... Hmmm...
Either way, more heat for the other two.
So far, I'm impressed by the stud remover. It may not suck!
#2 actually came out. Go oriellys stud puller!
What'd meatloaf say? 1 outta 3 ain't bad?
Alright! Up to 2 outta 3! That's certainly not bad! Thanks for the sage wisdom Mr. Loaf!
Tomorrow I'll drill and tap the one that snapped off. Turns out these are thru, the bumps on the back side must have been rust..
And I feel that I owe "Performance Tool" and apology. Apparently it's skookum enough.
WonkoTheSane said:
Tomorrow I'll drill and tap the one that snapped off. Turns out these are thru, the bumps on the back side must have been rust..
Good news on all counts! at a glance at the pic of broken one, it did not have much holding on, there. Glad to here the "all the way through" - makes the drill/tap job nuch easier. and if that doesent co well, longer bolt/nut, or, since 2 came out, your welded c clamp plan! But hopefully, since you have shown it you will win, it will drill/tap ok!
Final chapter in the saga. The outside of the flange kinda flaked away and then ripped out when the thin sleeve of the bolt twisted free as it was being drilled:
I figured there was enough thread there to kinda hold it, so I chased all 3 holes, and held that one in with JB brand "grey loctite," instead of the normal copper antisieze I use on everything exhaust related. Hopefully it holds, if not, the welder will make quick work of it.
Thanks for playing everyone, here's your moment of Zen:
Honsch
Reader
5/15/21 5:59 p.m.
Weld it now. JB Weld will burn off in no time.
It's unfortunate you used the grey loctite, now welding it will suck.
Yep. 90% sure that ain't gonna hold. Weld that stud in, before you put it all back ; save ya the time of taking it back apart
This thread reminds of a similar nightmare I had a few weeks ago. Doing some exhaust work to my Mustang and the aftermarket X-pipe brand (SLP) states to remove the studs from the manifold in order to run M10 bolts up through. Well, the studs in this manifold had become one with the manifold itself and I quickly ended up in a situation similar to OP's:
IMG_4099 by emanookian, on Flickr
The above photo is deceptive, because it makes it look like there is alot more room than there is to get at the broken bolt. In my case, the room to manuever was restricted, the only choice I had was to pull the manifold:
IMG_4117 by emanookian, on Flickr
As it was, the stud that was sticking out was stripped to heck and I tried all i could to get it out. I weleded a nut to it while it was on my bench and I barely able to get it to move just a hair before the weld on the nut failed. That was just enough as I was able to finish the job with vise grips.
However, the other stud (that broke off flush) put up a HELL of a fight, taking a lot of effort with cobalt bits to drill though. I mangled the center punch slightly so it caused me to be a bit off center when drilling. Ultimately, I ended up with this:
IMG_4126 by emanookian, on Flickr
I ended up welding a nut to the back end of the exhaust manifold in order to be able to use the OEM thread size bolt (M10 x 1.5)
IMG_4127 by emanookian, on Flickr
By the way, I too am a big proponent of Kroil - you can see a blurry image of one of my cans in the background
