This fuel line was replaced with hose and clamps before my ownership. Its now come apart and sprayed gas everywhere twice now. I can't find what part its supposed to be, or more specifically what clamps it uses. If its just a simple line I'll get new hose, but I suspect for fuel they did something other than just clamps. Can anyone provide what this is supposed to be? Once I know what it looks like I can have an easier time finding a part number.
Edit: I think this is it below.
Ours is a 2006 with the 2.3, hope it helps.
In reply to Apexcarver :
Yes that absolutely does. Thank you!!!!!
So I have finally been getting into the suspension refresh on my wife's 5. I went ahead and fired the parts cannon as she will be keeping it awhile.
Here are the isssues
Its either fix this, get the wife something new, or let her steal my Maverick (NOoooo!)
Been chipping at the front end, got the struts out and replaced as well as the lower control arms. I started working on the swaybay. Of course a swaybar mount bolt sheared and of course it was one that was hard to get to (trying to undo it was one click at a time on the ratchet. So I just finished dropping the front suspension subframe to drill out and tap the hole... I guess at least it isnt that hard to drop the subframe on these. (having a 4 post lift with bridge jack helps).
Let's see what else I find.
What is that around the exhaust? Is that normal?
In reply to CyberEric :
Insulation/heat shielding, the foil component disintegrated, I have some aluminum taping to do while it's apart.
Item 9 here
https://www.mazdastuff.com/Mazda-5-Heat-shield-p/c235-56-442b-105229.htm
What kind of sway bar bushings did you go with? Ours are a little graunchy over big undulations like speed bumps and will probably need to be dealt with eventually. I'm half tempted to go with poly for longevity if rubber bushings invariably self-destruct.
In reply to DarkMonohue :
I went with whatever rock auto had. I actually accidentally ordered two sets. Thing is they were less than $10, so I'm not sure it's worth shipping on on their own.
In reply to Apexcarver :
Having a spare set ready and waiting on your shelf doesn't seem like a bad use of less than ten dollars.
Been reading Mazda5 stuff since test driving and handshaking on a 2012 with a manual yesterday. 128k miles. Seems to drive fine, but has a few typical 13 year old car things going on that I'll have to address.
Any major failure points to look for? What would you do when first getting your hands on one? Oil/filters/plugs?
Failures on our 2006 to date.
Plus, shocks and sway bar bushings.
In reply to TravisTheHuman :
Air filter, oil service with the correct weight synthetic oil, cabin filter (the auto climate control models are a tiny bit of a faff to do, so they are rossi shipped and get nasty), plugs (put NGKs in it), lube the door latches, hinges, and locks, and check the endlinks because they like to fail early on these and cause clunks.
Add engine mounts to the list. Ours eats a fluid filled one every 30k. At least check it.
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
I've heard engine mounts are a common need. Are you using OEM and they only last 30k? Which mount?
Javelin said:In reply to TravisTheHuman :
Air filter, oil service with the correct weight synthetic oil, cabin filter (the auto climate control models are a tiny bit of a faff to do, so they are rossi shipped and get nasty), plugs (put NGKs in it), lube the door latches, hinges, and locks, and check the endlinks because they like to fail early on these and cause clunks.
Recommendations on a tutorial for lubing door locks? I'm assuming I have to take door panels off to do this?
I'm getting inconsistent lock operation on basically all the locks on the car, and the rear hatch either the lock or the latch - haven't done a deep dive.
Windows are weird too. This morning the DR window worked, but pass didnt. Now neither of them do. Pass tries to move but doesn't go anywhere. DR side nothing happens now.
TravisTheHuman said:In reply to Dusterbd13 :
I've heard engine mounts are a common need. Are you using OEM and they only last 30k? Which mount?
Hell no I'm not buying OEM. I'm buying the cheapest Amazon crap I can find. Probably a case of I get what I pay for. At least it takes about 3 and 1/2 minutes to change for the cordless in impact and the floor jack. It's the top passenger side mount
TravisTheHuman said:Javelin said:In reply to TravisTheHuman :
Air filter, oil service with the correct weight synthetic oil, cabin filter (the auto climate control models are a tiny bit of a faff to do, so they are rossi shipped and get nasty), plugs (put NGKs in it), lube the door latches, hinges, and locks, and check the endlinks because they like to fail early on these and cause clunks.
Recommendations on a tutorial for lubing door locks? I'm assuming I have to take door panels off to do this?
I'm getting inconsistent lock operation on basically all the locks on the car, and the rear hatch either the lock or the latch - haven't done a deep dive.
Windows are weird too. This morning the DR window worked, but pass didnt. Now neither of them do. Pass tries to move but doesn't go anywhere. DR side nothing happens now.
I lubed the latches with lithium and the keyhole with CRC power lube. Also pull the outside door handles up and give a squirt inside. Lube the hinges while you're at it. Didn't take the door panels off unless I was doing a window regulator. Had to do a back one once, super easy job. Check your multifunction window switch on the driver's door. So the individual switches on the other doors make the windows go up and down?
Javelin said:Ooof, been awhile!
I put new wheels and tires on the 5 today.
17x7 Drag
225/45/17 Kuhmo PA51
What offset are these? Any idea how much drop that is? How does it look from the front or quarter view?
Why were you not satisfied with the H&Rs?
I see TR has H&Rs on closeout (discontinued) right now, as well as "special" pricing on the Konis. It has my brain moving, especially knowing that pretty much all the other springs are also discontinued. I'd love to nail the suspension on the first try.
I see lots of coilover options, but none that appear to be quality.
Javelin said:I lubed the latches with lithium and the keyhole with CRC power lube. Also pull the outside door handles up and give a squirt inside. Lube the hinges while you're at it. Didn't take the door panels off unless I was doing a window regulator. Had to do a back one once, super easy job. Check your multifunction window switch on the driver's door. So the individual switches on the other doors make the windows go up and down?
Good point. My son was able to move that window with his switch. It feels like the fwd 2 switches on the multifunction switch are bad. I'll see if I can pop it out and clean it.
Door locking with the fob seems much more consistent after replacing the battery. Unlocking seems a little slow, but I havent lubed everything yet.
TravisTheHuman said:Javelin said:Ooof, been awhile!
I put new wheels and tires on the 5 today.
17x7 Drag
225/45/17 Kuhmo PA51
What offset are these? Any idea how much drop that is? How does it look from the front or quarter view?
Why were you not satisfied with the H&Rs?
I see TR has H&Rs on closeout (discontinued) right now, as well as "special" pricing on the Konis. It has my brain moving, especially knowing that pretty much all the other springs are also discontinued. I'd love to nail the suspension on the first try.
I see lots of coilover options, but none that appear to be quality.
I deeply regretted putting coilovers on my last 5. I did like the H&R's, but the KYB's I paired with them were *woefully* under-damped. If I was doing it again, I would use a more quality shock like a Koni. The 17x7's were way better than the 18x8.5's, the 5 likes a smaller/lighter wheel/tire package. If I do one of these all over again, it's going to be 17x7.5 APEX's, H&R's, and Koni Yellows.
18x8.5 xxr that should fit I'll let go cheap if you're looking for wheels....
I'll pass on the wheels thanks. I think I'd like to stay with 17s.
Javelin said:I deeply regretted putting coilovers on my last 5. I did like the H&R's, but the KYB's I paired with them were *woefully* under-damped. If I was doing it again, I would use a more quality shock like a Koni. The 17x7's were way better than the 18x8.5's, the 5 likes a smaller/lighter wheel/tire package. If I do one of these all over again, it's going to be 17x7.5 APEX's, H&R's, and Koni Yellows.
Did you need any special bolts or arms for camber correction? IIRC in one of yours posts you had rear camber arms?
Any strut mount recommendations?
Don't buy cheap Amazon strut mounts. They fail quick.
And yes, rear spc camber arms.
TravisTheHuman said:Javelin said:I deeply regretted putting coilovers on my last 5. I did like the H&R's, but the KYB's I paired with them were *woefully* under-damped. If I was doing it again, I would use a more quality shock like a Koni. The 17x7's were way better than the 18x8.5's, the 5 likes a smaller/lighter wheel/tire package. If I do one of these all over again, it's going to be 17x7.5 APEX's, H&R's, and Koni Yellows.
Did you need any special bolts or arms for camber correction? IIRC in one of yours posts you had rear camber arms?
Any strut mount recommendations?
Yes, SPC front camber bolts and rear adjustable camber arms with the H&R's. *Highly* recommend the SPC stuff, even at stock height, as adjustability in the Mazda suspension is a little well, little, and getting the alignment off really hurts the ride and tire wear. The coilovers had caster/camber plates for the front.
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