I'm going to be seeing an S197 in two days (05+ Mustang GT's)... but I couldn't find a buyer's guide anywhere online. Aside from the usual stuff that applies to every car purchase, what are a couple car-specific problems I should keep an eye out for?
Thanks!
Sort of a general tip, but important to emphasize because of how moddable S197s are: Avoid poorly modded examples. You don't want someone else's headache, and yes there are owners that can screw up a car like the Mustang, which is as complex as a hammer. Also look for tell-tale signs of a car that has been returned to stock, like non-factory-looking fasteners or clamps, wear marks, and new looking stock parts with no explanation as to why they were replaced.
thePHAN
New Reader
12/19/13 7:42 p.m.
Yeah, I've had to sift through dozens of ads because for some reason, people just can't seem to NOT mod this car, worse so - incorrectly.
I spot a CAI, but can anyone see anything else wrong in this picture?
(cause I don't... but after lurking here for a while. I've learned some people on this forum have quite the set of eyes.)
Another issue that came up after we started exchanging emails is that the car is registered non-op. One, how do I check if he still had back fees unpaid? Two, because it's non-op... he's not really allowing a test drive on main streets.
I'm sure more than a couple people have been in this situation, how should I go about getting the most out of a test drive if I can only take inside streets?
I'd keep on looking.
The only reason my Miata goes non-op is during the winter (no trackdays) or currently not ready for the track.
thePHAN
New Reader
12/19/13 8:09 p.m.
I guess when you look at things objectively, and not through the eyes of someone who really wants a S197, there ARE a couple of red flags.
For being one the most sold cars in America, I sure am having a hard time finding a clean one here in SoCal - especially with 15k to play with.
Something I've learned when looking for a specific car in a specific condition............
You have to be willing to travel for it.
2 of my 3 E30s came from the east coast (I'm in OK), and the tow rig I'm looking for will likely end up coming from somewhere in Texas, the southern east coast, or southern california.
Oh and I understand the S197 thing, I previously owned a '13 GT Track pack car.............it was freakin' amazing. I really miss that car, but I don't miss the payment/insurance/gas that was more than my mortgage.
thePHAN
New Reader
12/19/13 8:37 p.m.
I would be willing to travel, but my commitments simply don't allow it. I've been shopping out of state simply to entertain the thought and MY GOD are there a lot of cars I would love to take home with me...
With how busy I am, I really hope I find what I'm looking for locally. I know they're out there cause I missed one with low miles, all service records, at a great price by just two weeks.
People tend to start selling their cars a lot after New Years, too... right?
Its not a huge deal, but one thing that is pretty common that I noticed on mine is bubbling of the paint under the hood. I think there are some issues with corrosion and the hood is aluminum, but like I said its not a big problem and all the paint is still there.
Mine is a lowly V6 so I can't comment much on the drivetrain, but its been an overall dead reliable car for about 60K.
Opti
New Reader
12/20/13 12:23 a.m.
Im thinking of picking one up as a DD, and they are actually good cars. Common problems involve something with the cabin filter causing water to leak into the cabin on early cars, plugs breaking when removing (champion makes an updated plug) and the endlinks can knock when they go bad. On the trucks which generally see higher mileage the cam phasers go bad, but I havent seen this on the mustangs, maybe because they normally see less mileage or maybe because its a diff part, they make deletes though and arent that bad to change if you keep them so no bigger.
They make 300hp on 87 octane are somewhat comfortable and have a decent interior.
Ive been hunting for a white or red 5 speed with red leather interior for about a year.
ddavidv
PowerDork
12/20/13 5:32 a.m.
I've been looking haphazardly for a month or two myself. I'm trying to get one for under $10k (high miles are my friend); they are out there, but scarce. Lots of dreamers who apparently don't use KBB or similar to see what they are actually selling for. There are lots of kiddie-cars with body kits, blowers, etc on them but I have come across a few one-adult-owner cars without all the junk on them that I'd have no reservations about. Just haven't found the right combination yet.
Only thing I've seen that can be an issue is the manual transmissions sometimes will get bad syncros, which is probably an indication of abuse more than a common failure. The inside door panel upholstery can start to come unglued, and the factory radios can take a E36 M3. Have seen the corroding front hood lip a couple times too. That's really about it. Ford seems to have really gotten these cars right, and the aftermarket can solve any of it's shortcomings with a charge to your credit card. 300hp out of the box...I can't wait!
I bought mine new in 05 and have 103,000 miles of dd on it.
Check that the plugs have been replaced. As mentioned the factory plugs break. Its not usually that hard to deal with, but at this point there's no reason to buy one that hasn't been dealt with.
My Door panel inserts fell off in the parking lot. Seems to be heat related.
Alternator diode failure is pretty common. It causes an odd stumble at steady light cruise and causes a CEL. The trouble code reads as a bad cam phaser or some such, but that's due to electrical noise in the system from the alternator. Takes about $300 and ten minutes to swap alternators
As mentioned, buy the most unmolested one you can find. $15k gets you the pick of the litter here in the southeast. Maybe a dealership will import one for you at the right price, or maybe work with a broker to check auctions.
one other thing - these cars will not run a cold air intake without an aftermarket tune. Putting a CAI on a stock, non-tuned car immediately gets a lean code CEL. That means if you are looking at a car that is running fine with a CAI on it, they'd better be able to provide info on who retuned the car.
If it was done by a shop, don't buy the car until you've talked to the shop and verified their reputation. If it was done with a handheld tuner (as mine was) they need to give you the tuner and let you verify that it will connect to the car in question. When a handheld is used to download the factory tune and upload a custom tune, it is locked to that VIN. The factory tune is stored on the handheld. If they can't or won't give you the handheld unit, walk away.
A bad tune - usually someone tweaking it with no knowledge - can destroy one of these in a hurry.
I've been looking quite a while and from my searches $15K is reasonable for a nice '05 S197 w/ 35-50K miles, at least around here, YMMV. Lower mileage examples will ask more as well as the delusional owner who garaged and waxed their baby 10X / year. A lot of these were toys anyway and were garage kept, never saw snow or rain so hold out for a well cared for car. Patience is key if you're looking for the right color, interior, option and mileage for the money.
If it looks like this:
it is a 2014 Kia Rondo.
Search car max-I don't think they like to buy non-stock used cars.
ultraclyde wrote:
one other thing - these cars will not run a cold air intake without an aftermarket tune. Putting a CAI on a stock, non-tuned car immediately gets a lean code CEL. That means if you are looking at a car that is running fine with a CAI on it, they'd better be able to provide info on who retuned the car.
Not completely correct. There are some aftermarket airboxes that do not require a tune, but most of them do.
The 4.6L Modular was a pretty stout motor, so even if the tune is a "canned" one from a decent tuner, I wouldn't worry about it.
The spark plug issue is really the only thing to worry about. If they haven't been changed, they will break when you do change them. There is also a tool that removes them with little issue; there are a few guys on various forums who will rent you that spark plug removal tool for a pittance.
These cars are like LEGO sets; everything bolts right up. The suspension is extremely simple, and just about everything in the car is easy to get to. So if you do find one with a few minor problems, it's a simple matter of either buying used parts dirt-cheap from a forum or browsing the HUGE aftermarket for an upgrade.
thePHAN wrote:
People tend to start selling their cars a lot after New Years, too... right?
I had been looking since '08. Every winter there were always a few or so toys being sold because: baby on the way, getting married, lost job, dealer gotta move it... even a retired guy who needed a left knee replacement.
Check Ford dealer used inventory too, they take many as trades for new cars. Some may not keep used inventory more than a couple/ few months. That's how I bought my '05 last July.
Keep at the search, be persistent, you'll find it.
Good luck.
Will
Dork
12/20/13 9:57 a.m.
I've heard of problems with the spindles when guys autocross them.
Will wrote:
I've heard of problems with the spindles when guys autocross them.
Huh? I've never heard of that.
thePHAN
New Reader
12/21/13 3:51 p.m.
Thanks for all the advice. I'll go ahead and keep looking until the right one appears.