Between my lower block and upper block. The upper block has this small grove machined into it. There is no gasket for these parts, in fact only block gaskets, are for the valve cover,and head gasket. So minor ones. The only thing here is a silicon gasket,squeezed out of a tube
My thought, into this grove install'O ' ring rope, as in photos, the upper block is grove this way, lower block is flat
So the lower block would squeeze the'O' ring flat on one side. I would of course use vinton cord.
Here are photos.
Think that is 'viton' (not vinton) cord and yes, I can't see why that wouldn't work. Make sure not to trim the ends of the cord until it is under compression, sandwiched in final position.
Thank you, also tried to spell it right, phone spell check kept changing it.
It may be for anaerobic sealant. I’ve seen this same type of grove in vw’s where their special sealant is used.
1slowvw. It is quite deep. My oil pan to lower block, (main bearing carrier ) is smooth on the interface, I plan to use hondabond on that surface. I like hondabond for used like that. Than you for your thoughts
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It would suck to put it all together then find that it didn't work. I have had mine Ecotec apart 3 times now and used the gray Permatex sealant meant for motorcycles and it's never leaked
You're supposed to use sealant. I like black Right Stuff (of course) but anything such as Hondabond or the like will work.
The service manual will tell you exactly where to put it and how large of a bead to use, too.
The O-ring doesn't provide any adhesive action. The various types of gray sealant is standard practice for manufacturers on aluminum blocks. My Nissan VQ30DET block (90's era) doesn't have a "lower block" but the oil pan is a structural component and seals that way. The newer VQ35HR, VQ37VHR, and VR38 motors, the upper block, lower block, and structural oil pan seal together with the gray stuff.
I have the service manual. But brisk on hondabond, I can keep the seal from entering the inside of the engine. Paint on hondabond, let's say, 3 or 4 mm from the inside, and durring compression of the parts, no excess will squeeze into the inside of the block. Taking apart a few ecotec enginrs, I have always founf excess sealant inside the crank case
.but I will listen to all advice here.
ThreeBond 1184 would be appropriate
Alfaromeoguy said:
Taking apart a few ecotec enginrs, I have always founf excess sealant inside the crank case.
Knowing most people over do it with sealant and being mindful when you apply it already puts you ahead of some people who work on engines.
1SlowVW said:
Alfaromeoguy said:
Taking apart a few ecotec enginrs, I have always founf excess sealant inside the crank case.
Knowing most people over do it with sealant and being mindful when you apply it already puts you ahead of some people who work on engines.
The FSM's I've looked at have very specific instructions for bead size and application. It's hard to avoid the "more is better" thinking, but you already have that figured out. I followed the FSM instructions on mine, then scoped it afterward and didn't see any excess inside the crankcase. Harbor Freight has cheap "boroscopes" and I see add-on attachments advertised for smart phones that look really handy.
