Engine dilemma (Celica content)

Alright, soo....

I have this Celica that i've had for a few years.

It's been sitting for two years, because i was bored with the stock motor enough that when it developed a front suspension noise, i just parked it.

Suspension has been thoroughly worked. Exterior has had some work. It's gutted. It has a lot of tire. It was no fun to drive because the stock motor just wasn't capable of getting the chassis bent out of shape no matter how stupidly you drove it. It was FAST in some twisties, just no fun at all.

So.

Sunday, i drove down and picked up Evildky's blown 3sgte. (Thanks Dave!)

Now, my current dilemma. I have no idea what to do for motor. My goal is 350-400whp, this is just a FWD car after all, and it only weighs about 2300lbs, with more weight to be lost down the road.

So, focusing JUST on block/head, i need input on the best route. Options:

1) Rebuild to stock specs, clean head, run it. (Will handle the power just fine.)

2) Try to be a little more efficient. Stock bottom end, headwork/cams.

3) MORE efficient. Built bottom end with higher compression, headwork/cams.

4) Build bottom end to be bombproof in case i get bored and want to try my hand at Sport Compact drags. Build 1000whp capable shortblock.

5) Stroker. I have the block and crank out of the Celica currently that could easily be combined for about $200 more than building stock 2.0 litre. Would end up with a 2.2 litre motor capable of ALL the power. (But do i really want the increased torque and spool in a light FWD car? Trying to avoid "MX6 Syndrome" here)

Halp!

For the record, i will not be starting this build at all under Escort is done, so stay off my back. :D I'm just mapping out plan of attack at the moment.

Which one has pushrods? I pick that one.

Bobzilla wrote: Which one has pushrods? I pick that one.

Ever been kicked in the taint from behind? Because that's what's going to happen next time i see you.

None of them have pushrods... not sure if you're joking

I choose Option 5. Seems like the best combination of economy and power. To answer your questions -- yes, you do want all of that torque and quick spool in a FWD It's a handful, but fun (see: Neon SRT-4). You will no longer be bored, anyway...

Winston wrote: None of them have pushrods... not sure if you're joking I choose Option 5. Seems like the best combination of economy and power. To answer your questions -- yes, you do want all of that torque and quick spool in a FWD It's a handful, but fun (see: Neon SRT-4). You will no longer be bored, anyway...

He's joking. We live in the same town.

I think Option 5 would work nicely with a slightly oversized turbo. I just don't want to end up with another car with power delivery like the MX6. Because the last thing i want is the Celica to drive like my MX6.

Hell, might even branch into turbo discussion in this thread. AllTrac.net seems to be dying and i haven't gotten any input there.

You know my opinion. Stroker. no matter what you decide to do, the motor is done.

Take the transmission out and put that in your MX-6. Then take the Celica and sell it. You will then have a really awesome MX-6 that you can put a better turbo on.

pres589 wrote: Take the transmission out and put that in your MX-6. Then take the Celica and sell it. You will then have a really awesome MX-6 that you can put a better turbo on.

I don't feel like the S53 in the Celica is any stronger than the H-Type, to be quite honest. Actually, i know it's not. (I'm going to have to use a V6 Solara trans.)

I like the Celica better than the MX6. If one of the FWD Turbo cars has to be kicked to the curb, it'll be the MX6. Celica has better interior, handles better, looks better, and hasn't been totaled.

Sell the 4banger to someone who doesn't know any better and go do some googling to find out just how easy (no cutting, adapter kit available with one phonecall, mates to Supra 5speed and shifter comes out in the stock location) the 1UZ swap is and how cheap that 1UZ can be had, and how when you're done the car gains a total of no more than 60 lb. heck id celica's enough wider than ae86, you might not even need fancy blockhuggin headers. Just don't buy whichever 1UZ I wanna get my mitts on!

Jay_W wrote: Sell the 4banger to someone who doesn't know any better and go do some googling to find out just how easy (no cutting, adapter kit available with one phonecall, mates to Supra 5speed and shifter comes out in the stock location) the 1UZ swap is and how cheap that 1UZ can be had, and how when you're done the car gains a total of no more than 60 lb. heck id celica's enough wider than ae86, you might not even need fancy blockhuggin headers. Just don't buy whichever 1UZ I wanna get my mitts on!

I believe there's only one 1uz-powered ST18x car out there, and it started life as a GT4, which makes things "easier."

This is a FWD car, i'm not getting into all that. Not an easy swap.

If this was a 3rd gen Celica, i'd subscribe to your newsletter.

It's this one.

I was going to say put an V8 in it just to be an ass, but it seems I've been beaten to that.

If you really think there's a good chance you're going to go overboard with it, I say build the damn thing so it's bomb-proof now. Also, that's a good looking Celica, I desperately want an All-trac in that body-style.

I figured you had that x153 whatever box that's supposed to be pretty tough and much stronger than the H. I also figured you had good eyesight but obviously I was wrong there as well...

pres589 wrote: I figured you had that x153 whatever box that's supposed to be pretty tough and much stronger than the H. I also figured you had good eyesight but obviously I was wrong there as well...

I do.... but it's not IN the car. And it will be attached to a 3sgte, which is a superior motor and doesn't require an expensive adapter plate.

As for my eyesight.... you've seen my MX6, right? Thing is a major pile. It's also a challenge car/DD. E153 swap and/or making it look even halfway decent will never happen. Celica has already seen a Challenge budget or.... 4.

See? People say build the snot out of it from the get go. Stroker seems to be the most efficient way there. You know the rest.

Hey Halftrac, could you update your user profile? It seems busted and others I've clicked on are not.

No pushrods? No care.

But more cereal.... I'd say 3 or 5.

pres589 wrote: Hey Halftrac, could you update your user profile? It seems busted and others I've clicked on are not.

What's bustified on it? I can get into it just fine.

In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:

When I click the /92Cel... url goes to the 404 page that looks like a map. Does it in multiple browsers. Very odd. Was going to send you a message about something not very related to the above and now I have to do this instead. Lame.

From back when I was subscribed to the MR2 mailing list, the MK2 guys were getting 300 HP with just alphabet soup mods (FCD - Fuel Cut Defender, etc.) and a bleed valve on the waste gate. After 300 HP, I think they needed a hybrid turbo to get it in the right spot of the efficiency range. Then 350 wasn't a problem, and I think 400 was doable with bigger injectors and something to manage the fuel. Note that this is all "net wisdom" and I've never run a 3SGTE. I think the point that you need bottom end changes is north of 400. That 1KHP Pikes Peak motor was really wild with a Medusa of coolant tubing coming out the head to keep it from detonating.

pres589 wrote: In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac: When I click the /92Cel... url goes to the 404 page that looks like a map. Does it in multiple browsers. Very odd. Was going to send you a message about something not very related to the above and now I have to do this instead. Lame.

celicahalftrac@gmail.com

Dr. Hess wrote: From back when I was subscribed to the MR2 mailing list, the MK2 guys were getting 300 HP with just alphabet soup mods (FCD - Fuel Cut Defender, etc.) and a bleed valve on the waste gate. After 300 HP, I think they needed a hybrid turbo to get it in the right spot of the efficiency range. Then 350 wasn't a problem, and I think 400 was doable with bigger injectors and something to manage the fuel. Note that this is all "net wisdom" and I've never run a 3SGTE. I think the point that you need bottom end changes is north of 400. That 1KHP Pikes Peak motor was really wild with a Medusa of coolant tubing coming out the head to keep it from detonating.

Yeah, the stock motor has proven to handle north of 400whp without much issue.

This is kindof a case of "while i'm in there" since this motor is toast to begin with. The block/crank/rods are probably fine, and the head should be good.

pushrod horizontally opposed engine from the 70s and 80s subaru gl cars.
75hp!

Oooooohhhhh, fwd... nevermind!

Dr. Hess wrote: From back when I was subscribed to the MR2 mailing list, the MK2 guys were getting 300 HP with just alphabet soup mods (FCD - Fuel Cut Defender, etc.) and a bleed valve on the waste gate. After 300 HP, I think they needed a hybrid turbo to get it in the right spot of the efficiency range. Then 350 wasn't a problem, and I think 400 was doable with bigger injectors and something to manage the fuel. Note that this is all "net wisdom" and I've never run a 3SGTE. I think the point that you need bottom end changes is north of 400. That 1KHP Pikes Peak motor was really wild with a Medusa of coolant tubing coming out the head to keep it from detonating.

Dr. Hess is right, my old MR2 turbo was right at 300rwhp without a whole lot of effort. Basicallty involved a good rebuild with a balance and blueprint, a head flow, clipped turbo, larger intercooler, down pipe change that got rid of the second cat, free flow exhaust, and a blow off valve mod. It sounds like a lot, but really was not all that expensive to do. The difference in drivability was amazing. Turbo lag was almost non-existent, it was faster, and got better fuel mileage.

yup 3sgte + breathing mods (including a turbo that doesn't wheeze like the ct26) goes a LONG way...