Yeah, I'm an idiot. Since I was riding my cruiser more than my 20-inch BMX, I parked the smaller bike in our screen room--hey, the garage was getting tight.
This weekend I thought, I should ride the 20. The dew/humidity/whatever did a number on the cranks, however, pitting the chrome and turning them rusty. It's only cosmetic, but it still bugged me. Plus it reminded me that I'm an idiot.
Yeah, I'm a horrible BMXer. And an idiot.
Our local powdercoater said to bring them by. They'd let me know how much to remove the chrome and powdercoat. New arms are available for $58/each from Profile. I figured worst case I'd go for new arms.
Just to see what would happen, I threw them in some Evapo-Rust last night. By the way, that is an official Evapo-Rust tank, not a dirty pastry container that I fished out of our recycling bin.
The chrome is still pitted (duh) but now they look pretty decent. Yay, science.
And, yes, my workbench is a mess right now.
David S. Wallens wrote:
And, yes, my workbench is a mess right now.
I still see wood so it can't be too bad.
Have you ever tried it on a painted surface? Can it be brushed on?
I've got a couple of spots on the Samurai I need to address before they get away from me.
Their website says it's designed more for dunking that brushing/spraying, but it has some tips if you want to try it.
The Evapo-Rust cleaned up the hardware, too. Once it's all done I'll post some real pics. Call this an unofficial tech thingie.
And yes, I cleared that spot just for you guys.
What is really needed is a hydraulic bench squeegee. Need space on the bench? WHIRRRRR shove and presto, clean bench.
Also, I remember Profile cranks being hideously expensive, like $300+. Did they actually get cheaper over the years?
Evapo-Rust has high Cholesterol and Sodium.
Knurled wrote:
What is really needed is a hydraulic bench squeegee. Need space on the bench? WHIRRRRR *shove* and presto, clean bench.
Also, I remember Profile cranks being hideously expensive, like $300+. Did they actually get cheaper over the years?
The originals (back in production) are $325 (http://www.profileracing.com/estore/product.php?productId=274) but, yeah, they seem a bit less expensive. Still made in Florida, though.
I love the workbench squeegee idea.
I did a similar thing with some chrome wiper jets from a '66 Coronet last summer. For laughs I put one jet in Metal Rescue and the other in Evapo-Rust.
Metal Rescue ate the chrome off so I ended up replacing one of the jets but for some reason Evapo-Rust didn't.
I always have a little pan of Evapo-Rust next to me when I'm working with suspension bolts, just to clean them up (the rust always comes back by the next time I'm in the suspension, but it makes me feel better to clean out the threads with it prior to reinstall).
I threw the hardware in the Evapo-Rust earlier this evening. I checked on it an hour or so ago. It all looks new.
Might want to throw a coat of wax on them if they are that rust prone.
Is it really a good idea to wax suspension bolts? I've heard nail polish might work but I'm nervous about fasteners backing off with any coating.
This stuff looks awesome. Gonna have to order it for all the rusty crap on my far too numerous projects.
Kenny_McCormic wrote:
Might want to throw a coat of wax on them if they are that rust prone.
I figured I'd hit the crank arms with some chrome polish, and following that with wax isn't a bad idea. Then I can go ride without hanging my head in shame.
In reply to ssswitch:
Then don't wax the fastener surfaces? I mean just rub on a coat of turtle wax or whatever you have on hand over the outside chromed surface where it had rusted.
Oh, that makes some sense. Yeah that's actually a really good idea, I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
It's a somewhat popular thing to do with blued firearms that get worked a lot in wet conditions, eliminates the constant wiping down with a oily rag. Instead you just put a coat of wax (either automotive or Johnson paste) on it every time it gets stripped down. Museums generally wax most metal as well.
It works great in motorcycle gas tanks too! just place the tank on a folded towel and let it sit overnight then roll on to its side and let it sit until all the areas have been submerged. Yes takes a bit of time but sure beats harsh chemicals and it requires less work.
how much for enough to fill a swimming pool?
In reply to drummerfromdefleopard:
The real ticket would be using it in an automatic car wash. "Low pressure," "Soap," "Rinse," "Foam Brush," "PB Blaster," "Evapo-Rust."
Knurled wrote:
Also, I remember Profile cranks being hideously expensive, like $300+. Did they actually get cheaper over the years?
I was thinking about this. You know, by the time you take the basic crank kit and add a bottom bracket and chainring, you're close to $300. It's cool that they'll sell you just replacement arms, though.
Speaking of Profiles, I had never removed the "non-drive" arm until the other evening. I threaded the tool into the spindle and gave it a few taps with a rubber mallet. Everything came apart as designed. Thank you, Profile.
I am going to replace the pedals, though. Now is a good time. I get all my parts here: http://www.planetbmx.com/shop/
I'm going with about 5 gallons of cider vinegar to start
drummerfromdefleopard wrote:
how much for enough to fill a swimming pool?
At the Mitty I asked. I guess they do sell it by the rail car.
In reply to David S. Wallens:
I'll order up the 11mm scuba suit.
The key is to remember to shut the engine off just before it enters the pool
ssswitch wrote:
Is it really a good idea to wax suspension bolts? I've heard nail polish might work but I'm nervous about fasteners backing off with any coating.
Every single bolt on a bike should be greased up before being torqued to it's stated value. The only exception are the brake system bolts. And yes, I'm a professionally trained bike mechanic.
evildky
SuperDork
4/8/15 12:51 p.m.
If you need to dip a larger part do you eat a bigger sandwich? I'm just wondering because I have lots of rusty parts but I'm just not that hungry