In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I appreciate the support! You just confirmed exactly what I've been saying!
Thanks.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I appreciate the support! You just confirmed exactly what I've been saying!
Thanks.
Jet ski or johnboat trailer could be a good starting point, depending on price and condition.
Thank you
Edit - adding pic
I've got a HF trailer I put together a couple of years ago. It's been out of the garage for a handful of events, so it's pretty much new. In SE Wisconsin. PM me if you're interested.
Thanks
The logistics of WI to NC probably make this a NON-deal, however appreciate the thought
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Pete, what am I looking at here? How do wheels go on over those flanges and U-bolts?
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
Pipe threads. You just unthread it, drop the wheels on, thread it back on. The loops are for a theoretical anti theft device, but more practically are for levering the flanges back off after you forgot to put antiseize on the threads.
The bottom is the same, but there is a thick plate (30ish by 3ish by 1/4"? 3/8"? It was ten years ago) on the underside that they bolt to, with the plywood decking sandwiched between.
Looks like Lowe's and Home Depot have similar STARTER trailers for this project.
Lowe's trailer frame is aluminum.
Looks like that might be the option of choice
Rebuilding an older steel frame motorcycle trailer for our weekend tire / tools / cooler trailer.
Can't decide between 13" or 14" trailer tires.
Currently has flat spotted 13"
Any suggestions? 3,000 axle with 5 lugs, new bearing, seals and bearing buddies.
Thoughts?
Thanks
The taller the tires the better. The wheel bearings will last a lot longer if the tires aren't turning high rpms.
The 14 inch tire will have a lot more options for tire choice.
RD & FD
Thanks
Hubs are 5 x 4 1/2 with brand new bearings, seals, washers, lock nuts and of course cotter keys & Bearing Buddies.
Like the idea of the spare wheel and tires being directly over the trailer wheels.
Will control tongue weight with what goes in the TOOL box.
That is the plan at least
I built one last summer. I think aluminum is the way to go. It won't rot like the HF steel ones. Plus it has a few more premium parts on it. If you have room I'd get the 4x6 rather than the 40x48 as it gives you a lot more flexibility. Mine has a big box for tools. The tire basket holds a set of 275 easy, but 305 might be more than it can take. Tents, chairs, etc can fit between the tires and box. I added a gas rack up front. A 4x6 would have let me mount the gas on the trailer. Plus I'd have more options for tire mounting.
Major parts
You'll need some minor parts too
Good looking trailer
It is very similar to what we had in mind when we started this thread.
Found the Motorcycle trailer semi locally (SC).
Selling the winch and triple wide aluminum bike loading rack to recoup 1/2 of the buy in price.
Tool Box will be a Pelican Box left over from our NASCAB days, and will fabricate mounts for 2 RotoPax 5 Gallon containers
Plan to move the tail lights and add a plate light (NC requires a trailer plate).
Thanks to everyone who had contributed.
Your plan to repurpose a commercially built trailer is what I had in mind when I suggested a small boat trailer. I think you made a good choice.
Thanks FD. This seems to have been a purpose built motorcycle trailer built 5 - 7 years ago. Can't find CDC II on the Web. However my Google Foo is not the greatest in the world. All steel construction, slight surface rust under the expanda metal deck. Get the motorcycle rack cut off, lay out the top using marine grade plywood, (treated correctly) add tire basket, tool box and Rotopax Fuel can Mounts. Bob's your uncle, we have a trailer. Thanks again to all who have contirubuted
You'll need to log in to post.
