On my Ducati 900ss, the one broken head stud, of course, broke flush with the head. I can pull the engine, heck, it's almost just the case that's left anyway, but, without going to the machine shop, how should I remove what's left?
On my Ducati 900ss, the one broken head stud, of course, broke flush with the head. I can pull the engine, heck, it's almost just the case that's left anyway, but, without going to the machine shop, how should I remove what's left?
Weld a nut to it?
I've never had one of those apart and I'm having a hard time picturing exactly what happened. Do those studs run from the aluminum crankcase up through the cylinder and cylinder head? Where exactly did it break? Can you post a picture?
Haven't pulled the cylinder yet. They are put together like a VW or Porsche. Stud goes through the p/c and the head. I'm going to pull the p/c as a set at the wrist pin.
Did it break in operation or did it snap when you tried to loosen the nut?
Broke in operation before I purchased it. Mid 90s Ducs have a problem with these.
If it snapped in service, the part still in the case may not be seized in place. Most aftermarket head studs recommend installing them hand-tight only and these may be the same. Once you get the engine out and the cylinder off, use a center punch to make a place to start a drill bit. Start small so you can get it easily centered, then drill it larger to match the ez-out you just bought. ;-)
Use reverse-cut drill bits if you go that route. Not mandatory but can only help.
I’d hold off on the ezouts unless you’ve exhausted all other options.
Id start by putting a nut on the top of the stud and welding the stud to the nut through the hole in the nut.
I've never had an EZ out do anything except make a bad situation worse.
markwemple said:Broke in operation before I purchased it. Mid 90s Ducs have a problem with these.
Once you slide the jug off it should unthread from the case pretty easily. If it doesn't a little heat should free it. Since it broke at the head you'll have a lot to hold on to.
Use a spring loaded center punch use it a few times to indent the stud then use a regular punch and hit it hard shocking the tread down as it was loaded in the up direction. Now use a left hand drill bit. use a bit about 1/4 the stud width likely around a 2mm then go up to the biggest you can with out hitting the threads. As for ezout i never had luck until i got the short multi spine type like this Hanson set.
The only time I've had easy outs not work is when the screw rusted in place and the head broke off. I believe the stud should come out reasonably easy if you do not ding up around the hole.
spitfirebill said:I've never had an EZ out do anything except make a bad situation worse.
Then you're either doing it wrong or using junk extractors.
Easy out's are still the standard and go-to for a reason
spitfirebill said:I've never had an EZ out do anything except make a bad situation worse.
The regular style EZ-outs aren't great. That's why I linked the picture above. Those kind, or the Irwin/Hanson extractors are much better.
That said, I re-read the original post and he said it's broken off flush with the head, not flush with the block. Getting it out without pulling the head will require an EZ-out. If he pulls the head, he should be able to back it out by hand, or with a pair of pliers. If it was mine and I knew it was a common problem, I'd pull the engine and replace all the studs with something aftermarket.
Suprf1y said:spitfirebill said:I've never had an EZ out do anything except make a bad situation worse.
Then you're either doing it wrong or using junk extractors.
Guilty. They came from Sears years 30ish ago.
If I am reading this right you should be able to take off the head and the cylinder jug and you will have the stud just sticking out of the casing for removal with vice grips.
Maybe spray it with thread penetration oil and let it sit over night. Stand it up so gravity is your friend and the oil drains into the threads.
In reply to APEowner :
Broke flush with the case. Nothing exposed.
Where do you buy "good" extractors. The ones I've had over the years, usually craftsman, haven't been that great.
markwemple said:Where do you buy "good" extractors. The ones I've had over the years, usually craftsman, haven't been that great.
I've bought a few items from ToolTopia without having my identity stolen; https://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=hanson+extractors
Depending on where you live you might find them at an industrial jobber like Grainger, Richmond Supply, etc.
In doing the welded nut rescue, will mig work or do I need tig?
Either will work. You can attack the nut with a countersink tool and get more access to weld or buy a thinner "jamb nut". You could also try a left-handed drill bit first to see if it will unscrew. If it doesn't work you can still weld a nut to it.
I've been looking online at local retailers for left hand bits and have had no luck. Where have you bought yours?
Before you do anything desperate find a machine shop with a sinker EDM. Most will be familiar with removing taps and broken hardware from dies and fixtures without hurting the threads.
This would require removing the culprit from the bike and taking it to the shop. They'll be submersing it in a dielectric fluid. Normally oil or deionized water.
I'd consider it a last ditch effort. You'd likely be able to drill it out more easily easily. Just wanted to mention it.
markwemple said:In reply to APEowner :
Broke flush with the case. Nothing exposed.
Ah, sorry. I thought it was flush with the head. I'd start with a left hand drill bit and the do to an easy out with some heat on the case. Since it broke in operation it shouldn't be very tight. It may start to walk out when you drill it with the left hand bit.
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