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frenchyd
frenchyd MegaDork
2/18/23 11:02 a.m.
Slippery said:
frenchyd said:
Asphalt_Gundam said:

Pretty much any Foundry won't touch it unless it's their designed mold, etc. Then you have the fact that unless you're getting A LOT of them, they don't want the job. I couldn't even find a foundry that would use a proven mold I already had and do a small production run for valve covers.....

The Cheapest (and fastest) DIY way would be: Buy a 5 axis CNC, Faro Arm, MasterCam, Tooling and a huge chunk of aluminum. Might be able to do it for under 150K

The local foundry I know of does a lot of art stuff,  one off, Bells,   Etc.     
     An engine Block you'd probably have to do open deck  then weld the deck in place.  Once everything had stabilized mill  everything square. An   ordinary mill will be fine  unless you charge yourself for your time.  . Later use top hat sleeves to seal it.  
 

       Once the block is squared up  use the old main caps to locate the bolt holes for the crank and existing heads to ensure head bolt alignment.  Really the only thing requiring measurement will be the location of the head locating dowels.   You can measure one location and then using a transfer pin,  mark the other.  

 Crank boring would be done after  the block is decked.   There are companies that specialize in line boring.  Likely you've got 10-23 hours of work. But they'll give you a quote. Bring your old block with you 

      So the cam, oil galley etc would all line up.  Boring up to the oil galley from the mains will require a  guide held in place but could be done on a simple drill press.    Maybe you should  do a blind hole first so  you don't have  fragments coming loose.   You  could even  drill up through the camshaft hole  fit some Allen head tapered pipe taps in and drill back into the galley.  Really depends on how the Chrysler factory did it in the first place.  
  Now the factory does all that in a couple of passes with gang drills.  But doing them one at a time once the head is securely located isn't challenging at all. 
 Plenty of labor. Most in the set up. But all doable for a determined amateur. 

You have a way to make stuff sound easy ... yet you are here asking how hard it would be. 

Others have found listings for that engine. So it doesn't make any sense  to do a new block.  
The machine work to straighten out a block is stuff I've been doing for a very long time. Heck anyone who wants durability in a race motor goes through all these steps.     I've had machine shops do it for me and done some myself.  It's really a case  of time and care.  

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
2/18/23 1:26 p.m.

Some wild ass guesses

Get original engine scanned inside and out to create a digital file. 10-15k

Get wax cores printed 10k ( need a few) This work will actually be done by the foundry of choice since it will be to their build process.

Actual foundry cost guessing 50-75k They are going to want to make more than one block at a time. Chances are the first round is not going to be the final round so be prepared to do 3 rounds to get the best they can do.

QC and Machine shop effort 25k and maybe a couple of tries to get it right so good thing you made more than 1 block eh?

 

So tossing in contingencies, gonna say 300k to get a good idea if this is going to work. Course by then you are too far in to quit so you go until you are broke. Welcome to R&D.

 

Willing to bet that for a lot less you can walk up to someone at a car show and they will pull the engine out of their car for you right there in the parking  lot. 

 

Russian Warship, Go Berkeley Yourself
Russian Warship, Go Berkeley Yourself PowerDork
2/18/23 2:09 p.m.
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