So I've decided to install a hydraulic handbrake in my Yamaha YXZ side-by-side for initiating a slide in tight rallyx corners. (The Firm has several tight corners that are loose dirt on top of concrete where I feel this will be beneficial). But in thinking about the mechanics of this, I don't understand how pulling the hand brake doesn't stall the engine. Are the drift and rally bois depressing the clutch when pulling the slidey handle? Help me understand!
I had a turn brake on sand rail years ago, push lever applied brake on left rear wheel, pull lever applied brake to right rear wheel. Is it that kind of brake or does it do both rears at once? If that is the case you will need to hit the clutch.
jgrewe said:I had a turn brake on sand rail years ago, push lever applied brake on left rear wheel, pull lever applied brake to right rear wheel. Is it that kind of brake or does it do both rears at once? If that is the case you will need to hit the clutch.
It will lock both sides at the same time. I'll plan to be on the clutch when using it. A drifter buddy had the same guidance. Thanks.
Yep, standard rally practice is clutch in, e-brake, rotate, release brake, then dump the clutch and exit the corner. You've got the right idea.
Another benefit to the automatic transmission!
On the Subarus Ive used there is a micro switch on the ebrake handle that disengages the center diff so you are t affecting the front wheels when you hit the ebrake.
if you're doing a pass through, they can work on but you might need to "set" or "prime" it with the main brake and then hit the e while on the main and then release the main.
Most of the time I just use it as a variable brake bias, not a lock-n-spin. Like, if it's really slick, I'll apply handbrake so the front tires don't lock up.
Seems like the basics are covered here already.
Are you looking into an inline hand brake or a dual caliper setup? I haven't dealt with side by sides too much to know what's out there.
I went with dual calipers for my miata. I didn't like the thought of modifying the factory brake lines/system. I know it can be done just fine, but I preferred to have a separate system for the hand brake.
If are leaning towards dual caliper but there is no kit, I have some thoughts on potential ways to DIY it after looking into it on a couple cars.
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:Seems like the basics are covered here already.
Are you looking into an inline hand brake or a dual caliper setup? I haven't dealt with side by sides too much to know what's out there.
I went with dual calipers for my miata. I didn't like the thought of modifying the factory brake lines/system. I know it can be done just fine, but I preferred to have a separate system for the hand brake.
If are leaning towards dual caliper but there is no kit, I have some thoughts on potential ways to DIY it after looking into it on a couple cars.
I'll be doing an in-line setup that uses the existing calipers. The factory line to the rears has a very convenient junction making it easy to splice in the new master and handle.
In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
Cool deal. That's nice that they have the junction you can use easily.
In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
Do you run with the YXZ diff locked or open for rallyx?
cghstang_chris said:In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
Do you run with the YXZ diff locked or open for rallyx?
I run it in 4wd. The rear diff is locked all the time without the option to change it. You can control the locking on the front diff. I do not run the front diff locked. The center diff, I'm not sure of the specifics on it.
Late to the party here but yes, in my experience (rwd stuff) it tends to be put the clutch in, sometimes with varying amounts of foot brake prior to handbrake application, yank the lever, get back on the gas, release the handbrake, and dump the clutch. You can do all sorts of fun stuff with how aggressively you get the wheels spinning again too.
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