As title says, i'm looking for info on these, motors, and the cars they came in in the US.
Specifically the Audi 200 Turbo Quattro. Looks like they all had the "weaker" 10v motor, unless it's a 1991. It's a rather large jump in power between the two. 167hp vs 217hp or so.
My main questions:
1) These cars seem to be really cheap. is this good, or bad in this case? Run away? Or potential to be a really solid car?
2) The 10v motor. Does it have the same legendary capability for power as the 20v does?
3) What to look out for? Weak transmissions? Exploding diffs? What's the horror stories?
It wasn't time for me to pick up another car yet, but a 1989 200 Quattro Turbo just popped up for $850 locally, and it's supposedly in good reliable running condition, overall good shape, with door damage.
I feel I can give some insight on this as I drive a 1991 200 20v daily. As far as I have found these things are tanks. Mine has pulled trailers, run autocross, driven at Limerock and Watkins Glen, and been generally abused for the last several years. It has 267,000 miles on it and still keeps going.
I do live with the fact that it could blow up any day, but until then I will enjoy the most out of it. I have had to replace some parts like an alternator, radiator, master cylinder, and some ball joints but otherwise its been good. The motor, transmission, and diffs have never been opened up save for a clutch job (see trailer towing section). The body usually will not have any rust but the gas tank and fluid lines are something to watch out for. Mine is running a fuel cell in the trunk due to a hole in the gas tank.
Overall the 20V is more fun but the 10V is no loser. The 5 cylinder is one of my favorite engines and I would highly recommend it. If you are into playing with cars have fun. If you just want to drive it, don't buy German.
That car sounds like it could be a good deal. Go take it for a drive.
-Matt
GhiaMonster wrote:
I feel I can give some insight on this as I drive a 1991 200 20v daily. As far as I have found these things are tanks. Mine has pulled trailers, run autocross, driven at Limerock and Watkins Glen, and been generally abused for the last several years. It has 267,000 miles on it and still keeps going.
I do live with the fact that it could blow up any day, but until then I will enjoy the most out of it. I have had to replace some parts like an alternator, radiator, master cylinder, and some ball joints but otherwise its been good. The motor, transmission, and diffs have never been opened up save for a clutch job (see trailer towing section). The body usually will not have any rust but the gas tank and fluid lines are something to watch out for. Mine is running a fuel cell in the trunk due to a hole in the gas tank.
Overall the 20V is more fun but the 10V is no loser. The 5 cylinder is one of my favorite engines and I would highly recommend it. If you are into playing with cars have fun. If you just want to drive it, don't buy German.
That car sounds like it could be a good deal. Go take it for a drive.
-Matt
Thanks for the input!
In my short research time so far, i've found that 230hp or so seems to be a chip away, so that's promising.
heavier waste gate spring helps too. the 10v turbo is a popular choice for upgrading the NA 5cylinders. jsut keep in mind the flanges are Audi only so turbo swapping is slim without a bit of modding work.
ddavidv
SuperDork
4/11/09 8:17 a.m.
The I-5 is a heavy-ass, but virtually indestructible, engine in either turbo or non-turbo forms. Audi really overbuilt the drivetrains on these so you should never have a problem, though the automatics are like any in that poor maintenance can wind up killing one. The turbos are expensive if they go bad. The 100/200 body is a real tank, but the reason these cars have such poor resale is all the ancilliary 'features' that can take a crap with expensive results. Sunroofs, HVAC controls, heater blower motors, power steering pumps and racks, radiators, power windows, UFO brakes...when this stuff breaks it's never a $10 fix. The car itself will go hundreds of thousands of miles. The best thing, honestly, is to yank the engine out of the luxo-barge body and install it in a 4000 quattro. Now you've got a lighter, faster car without all the failing supporting systems of an aged luxury liner.
Wow, I have replaced all of those things or am currently driving without them working/ giving me problems. Even with all that everyone still loves it and its fun to screw around in.
cxhb
New Reader
4/11/09 3:12 p.m.
audifan
New Reader
4/12/09 9:41 a.m.
audifan
New Reader
4/12/09 9:42 a.m.
cxhb wrote:
all you need to know.
just listen to this thing.
its not an 80 but nonetheless its a 5cylinder turbo
Actually it is an 80 in europe they never had 4000/5000 cars like here and that is a euro car so 80 is correct a 5000 was either a 100 or a 200 depending on the trim and option levels and or motor level
cxhb
New Reader
4/12/09 12:29 p.m.
early s4's have 20v turbos right?
yeah..they also have late model prices.
cxhb wrote:
early s4's have 20v turbos right?
I was watching THIS just as this thread showed up. Sadly I was not the winning bidder. Odds are that when I have the cash in 3 months there will be none to be found
20Vs have more power potential but the 10V is still plenty strong. Stock with a chip and stiffer WG spring will give an easy 220 but the fuel injection better be running properly. The stock motor and turbo will go 15 psi with no issues. With EFI and a bigger turbo, exhaust, IC they go 350 easy and 20-25 psi. The 10V is cheaper for parts, 20V has more pull at high rpms, it breaths better.
The electrics on the cars can be flaky, but they will always get you home. For 850 if it passes your state inspection you got a deal.
I love the Euros take on various american TV shows. "Oh ya, good ol boy dukes great show ya?" "We luv it" "second only to das knight rider ya?" LOL Great vid though, sounds super nasty.
Chris Rummel
audifan
New Reader
4/12/09 8:28 p.m.
porschenut wrote:
20Vs have more power potential but the 10V is still plenty strong. Stock with a chip and stiffer WG spring will give an easy 220 but the fuel injection better be running properly. The stock motor and turbo will go 15 psi with no issues. With EFI and a bigger turbo, exhaust, IC they go 350 easy and 20-25 psi. The 10V is cheaper for parts, 20V has more pull at high rpms, it breaths better.
The electrics on the cars can be flaky, but they will always get you home. For 850 if it passes your state inspection you got a deal.
yes totally correct they will rarely ever leave you stranded. The prices for S4/S6's seem not to have adjusted yet they really should be well less than 10 k for a sedan and closer to 10 k for a nice wagon I am talking a 5 foot car here not a 50 foot car for those numbers the paint better shine real good and the left front seat should look like it has been used by a 98lb supermodel not like the one used by our respective fat a$$'s This car however is few and far between. again for $850 go for it.
cxhb
New Reader
4/13/09 1:10 a.m.
Junkyard_Dog wrote:
cxhb wrote:
early s4's have 20v turbos right?
I was watching THIS just as this thread showed up. Sadly I was not the winning bidder. Odds are that when I have the cash in 3 months there will be none to be found
im sorry to hear this... i hope you find one shortly lol
porschenut wrote:
20Vs have more power potential but the 10V is still plenty strong. Stock with a chip and stiffer WG spring will give an easy 220 but the fuel injection better be running properly. The stock motor and turbo will go 15 psi with no issues. With EFI and a bigger turbo, exhaust, IC they go 350 easy and 20-25 psi. The 10V is cheaper for parts, 20V has more pull at high rpms, it breaths better.
The electrics on the cars can be flaky, but they will always get you home. For 850 if it passes your state inspection you got a deal.
Luckily i live in a state with no inspection of any kind.
I'm trying to talk myself into looking at it. It's about a 3-4 hour drive, and i'm reluctant to do that without some very good pics of it beforehand, and the seller apparently doesn't have a camera. I'll see what i can manage, this is starting to sound like it would make the perfect winter hoonmobile.
Get him to make it worth your while. In oct I bought an 89 200 Q for 400 bucks. Had an intercooler hose leak and an exhaust clamp that needed tightening.
Tell him you will come with the cash if he gives you a no BS price.
So, are the 20 valve naturally aspirated models worth owning?
Quattro goodness
HiTempguy wrote:
So, are the 20 valve naturally aspirated models worth owning?
Quattro goodness
I had one of those... i didn't know anything about cars when i owned it, but i loved it.
audifan
New Reader
4/14/09 12:21 p.m.
HiTempguy wrote:
So, are the 20 valve naturally aspirated models worth owning?
Quattro goodness
yes absolutely the 7A motor is nice and begs to have a turbo slapped on it!
geoffl
New Reader
4/14/09 6:28 p.m.
HiTempguy wrote:
So, are the 20 valve naturally aspirated models worth owning?
Quattro goodness
Yes they are lots of fun and unstoppable in snow with the quattro. 20V revs higher and picks up strong from about 4k on up. As someone else said they beg for a turbo.034 Motorsports has a kit for them that I am coveting for mine.
geoffl wrote:
Yes they are lots of fun and unstoppable in snow with the quattro. 20V revs higher and picks up strong from about 4k on up. As someone else said they beg for a turbo.034 Motorsports has a kit for them that I am coveting for mine.
SO am I being told I should offer $2500 and go from there? I also noticed it has a 7K red line...
I am looking for a new/different car as I'll probably be selling the fosuc to my sister. Its between the audi, two different Swift GTi's, and trying to scrape some cash together for a real VAG product (A4/Jetta/Golf all of the turbo variety).
As I read this why am I starting to want an S2, no! Damn those things sound sweet.