Prepping for some winter work on our integra challenge car and i think body work has to be a focus, specifically rust repair.
The car is in a weird spot where it's clean and decent enough to want to keep driving but not worth enough to do real restoration.
Anyone have good tips on teaching resources for how to patch panels or bondo? Success or horror stories on rust repair you did.
Here's a peek at what we are dealing with since it was well hidden during the challenge
I have a lot of video I've done on my '61 Apache pickup, and I've fixed e.v.e.r.y.t.h.i.n.g on it.
This playlist, starting at Part 13 (lucky 13!):
'61 Chevy C10 Apache - YouTube
I learned tons by watching youtube channels: "Lazze Metal Shaping", "Iron Trap Garage", "Eastwood", "Gibson63", as well as Motortrend's "Bitchin' Rides "
You can do a good job with simple tools, and I've done those repairs on a Honda years ago with simple tools. Fancy tools make the job go quicker/easier. For me, the sheet metalwork has become more fun the better I've gotten at it. Not loving the paint part.
If you have a Community College nearby, they often have shop classes. I would check there and see if they have an intro class in autobody work.
Challenge car? Remove metal, add flares.
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:Challenge car? Remove metal, add box flares.
FTFY, cheers!
In reply to CJ :
Here in Minnesota, the Auto Body programs don't do rust repair.
outasite said:In reply to CJ :
Here in Minnesota, the Auto Body programs don't do rust repair.
Does anyone or do folks in Minnesota assume Thanos will be snapping his fingers when they see rust?
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
I should clarify it's a challenge car that I DD occasionally, and plan to do so more
You'd think that for us in the rust belt, that they'd offer classes in dealing with, you know...RUST!?!?
For patch panels, go to the JY and buy a steel hood or trunk lid for the car you are repairing. If you can't find a steel hood or trunk lid, ask if you can cut the roof or fenders out of the car. It's much easier to weld in panels that are the same material as the car you are working on.
Take your time making the patches. The closer they fit, the easier they are to weld and fill. An extra hour spent making the patch usually saves you hours of welding, grinding, and filling.
Keep the welding heat to a minimum to stop the panels from warping. I usually do a series of spots instead of trying to run a bead.
For fillers, Straight-Line from the Por-15 people is much easier to use than Bondo.
I'll close with this. I've done rust repair before. Months of it. It was pretty satisfying to get it done and get the car painted. However, I never want to do it again. For serious rust, I would rather buy a clean, rust-free body and move all the mechanicals over. It would be faster.
I moved to Minnesota in 1982. There were rusty cars and truck galore. Many people, me included, bought winter beaters to avoid using our nice/newer cars. Now, a rusty car or truck is a rarity. Even winter beaters look better. Perhaps because of the many automatic car washes we have and more are being built. Days of the DIY car washes are gone and you wash your car in minutes without getting wet and cold. Present day labor rates make labor intensive work costly and prohibitive so auto body shops would rather do collision repair. Snow season and multi car pileups keep them busy. The bad sledding months are busy with rear enders and distracted driving collision repair.
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