Swank Force One wrote:mndsm wrote: Can I at least get one pass in my car before I have to tear it apart again? I like the idea of the 8v and solid lifters, but dammit the car hasn't run yet.You're already limited by your clutch. Let's not get greedy.
Like that clutch is gonna last 6 weeks past challenge.
daeman wrote: That's some nice looking ports oldeskewl, I take it they're f2t exhaust ports? Did you remove much material or was it predominately smoothing and polishing work. I've heard there's quite a bit of material behind the valve seat that can be cleaned up and opening up the valve seat can yeild some good results.... Any thoughts on this?
Why yes... yes I did. Below is a before and after
this is the exhaust seat and port as viewed from the chamber, left side finished
Ok, I'll have to see if I can resurrect my photobucket account or make a new one when I get home from work. That said, she's not much to look at, pretty stock on the outside save for the wheels, greatly reduced ride height and the raider headlight conversion. It was grandpa spec when I got it, its total lack of molestation was a big part of why I bought it.
Mmmmm, thems be some purdy ports..... Wow that's some shabby casting in the rh port top view... Looks like there's certainly room for improvement.
So it seems my original dillema of can I get power from a sohc fe/f2 is null and void... Its going to now be a case of just what reliable power I can get, and how I can get my drive train to hold together and tolerate the power.
Out of curiosity, what's a miata 6speed run for over in the states? 1500 locally is a bridge and a half to far and probably more than the entire build will cost.
$800-$1000 for a normal 6spd, $1000-$1500 for a Mazdaspeed Miata 6spd.
I wouldnt mess with a 6spd if you think you might make big power in the future. R box is stronger and if you use a B2600i trans it will bolt up to the motor and truck with the right combo of parts.
Well that's definitely off the list of upgrades... An extra gear in a box that won't handle power just doesn't seem worth it. Mazda g6 shares the same bell housing as fe/f2? I did not know that... Figured it'd be different given that the g6 is a separate family of engine.
It's not the same pattern but there's enough bolt holes that line up. You can use an F2t flywheel and a TII Rx7 clutch. (Or F2T clutch.)
Ok, here's a few pics of the old girl.... I hope.
[URL=http://s142.photobucket.com/user/daemans/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20130518_103449.jpg.html]
[/URL
[URL=http://s142.photobucket.com/user/daemans/media/Mobile%20Uploads/l1.jpg.html]
[/URL]
Fair enough, thanks SFO. There's about eleventy billion bolts holding the fe to trans, so I'm sure so long as I can get 6 or so to line up itll be not to bad.
Man I wish our.trucks looked like that.
Cool truck. I like the front end conversion. I wish I could do a Telstar swap on the font of my GC 626 coupe. But shipping would kill me even if I could get someone to collect the parts and send them. I'd settle for the tucked in bumpers you guys got also.
Thanks guys, its a good truck, I'm slowly redoing it cause I want to hang on to it.
James, I probably couldn't help you out on that front at the moment. but if your serious about it, later on down the track, it might be something I can give you a hand with. Wouldn't be the first time I've help ship parts to people.
Anyone happen to know what usually lets go in the 5speed smooth case transmission? Shaft failure, housing failure or do the gears decide to self lathe at a particular point?
I'm trying to dig up some info on any improvements I can make to a smooth case to boost its power handling ability.
Thanks folks.
Sounds like a good question for a Miata or 1st gen. RX7 forum.
BTW, on the GD body FB group, a guy from Puerto Rico just posted a 562HP dyno from his FET 8v.
Gear shred. If a 250whp BP tears them up eventually, a 250hp F2 will annihilate them.
Wtf! That's a brutal amount of power for what a lot of people consider not much more than a boat anchor.
I was hoping it might have been case failure... Gear failure can't be fixed without new gears, and an r box conversion will be cheaper than that, so r box it is.
Looks like I'll have to sell of the 626 rwd box and my spare b2200 box.
So I got a bit of time to look at my ct26, its in need of rebuild so will stay on the shelf for the time being. I'm looking at turbos at the moment and after a few suggestions on something suitable. I don't need anything that hits like a hammer, and will probably use something that's been removed early in its life due to upgrade.
CT26 would probably be ok on a sorted motor. Bear in mind i ws running a LOT of boost, and almost nothing ws working right.
Rebuild kits are cheap and they're easy to work on.
Thing is I can get any number of turbos that I won't need to muck about with, I can always use the 26 elsewhere or at a later date. I'm thinking ct20, t25, td04 or similar?
As far as the trans is concerned, we destroy the synchros with stock na rotaries. I have seen some internal damage as well. This is living behind all of 120 ft lb of stock rotary torque.
The turbo type trans are much more capable and bolt up. It's a win win.
daeman wrote: Thing is I can get any number of turbos that I won't need to muck about with, I can always use the 26 elsewhere or at a later date. I'm thinking ct20, t25, td04 or similar?
CT20 is twin entry. Not worth the hassle.
The other thing to think about is end game. None of those turbos share a flange.
If it's still up in the air, i'd just go with a T3 footprint and be done with it.
wvumtnbkr wrote: As far as the trans is concerned, we destroy the synchros with stock na rotaries. I have seen some internal damage as well. This is living behind all of 120 ft lb of stock rotary torque. The turbo type trans are much more capable and bolt up. It's a win win.
Yeah, I'll be looking to source an rx7 turbo gearbox and put a 2600 bellhousing on it. Can't see any way I'll get the smooth case to last so may as well move right along.
Swank, Yeah, noticed the c20 has twin inlet. So I'll cross that off. Any good donors for t3 flange turbos that'd be about the right size for the f2?
China charger. Get a brand new turbo for $250. Or a t3 flanged Holset hx35.
Serious? I would have thought a good condition factory turbo would have been a better option... I know there's so many cheap new turbo's on eBay and they are appealing at the price, but the same thing that makes them appealing also scares the shizzle out of me.
Holset you say?.... Isn't that a truck turbo?
Yep serious. We use them all the time these days. 
And yeah, Holset truck charger. HX35 responds pretty well on a 12v F2.
Well I'll certainly consider it, the price is rather nice.
Where does one find a hx35 at a good price? Theyre not looking to common in Australia.
You'll need to log in to post.
