Model car Quick Build Round 2 May 2nd finish

In reply to slowbird :

Never seen that color on an SVO.  The dark sage green was super rare, and it was nice too.  Honestly of all the pretty crumby cars I've ever owned, an SVO is one of the few I want again.  I really want to get one and put a Cobra IRS and new modern Ecoboost 2.3 in it and enjoy it like it should be.  This is one restomod project that is realistically in my budget and capability.  I just need to find a good car with good bones.  Most SVOs are either pristine examples (show cars) or rust buckets (parts cars to plain scrap).  There is a super rare Dark Shadow Blue on in the southeast, but it was almost entirely rusted away :(.  I'd love to have one in that color.  The one I owned was a dark metallic grey 85.  I had it when my 97 Cobra was brand new.  Guess which car was slower, I had more time to wrench on and was more fun......

In reply to AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) :

Indeed, the dark sage green was what "inspired" me to choose green. I didn't have anything that dark on hand, so I figured I'd go bold.

Dark shadow blue looks hella sweet too.

In reply to ddavidv :

Thanks, I have just spent the last hour and a half watching the history of model companies.

Enablers. This forum is chock full of them.

WIP on my Banshee:

The Revell Banshee kit was one of my favorites as a kid - I glue-bombed one together when they were new.  Remember when Pontiac was exciting?  Too bad nothing came of the Banshee other than the hideous facelift to the 3rd gen Firebird.

Body work is started, but I ran out of Tamiya primer half way through...  We'll see how that works out :)

What does glue bomb mean? I've seen it mentioned a few times now. 

Ok, I've been watching these threads and I'm ready to jump in.

I put together one of these as a kid that my Dad had stashed away when he had his '80 320i Sport (kit is from 81), I didn't do a great job then so I picked another one up on Ebay over the winter. The rubber tires with detailed gravel tread is one of the cool parts of this kit.

I'm not ready to screw that up again though so I also picked this one up sometime in the lat 15 years from a clearance rack, it's pretty much 90% the same kit as the one above but with uglier wheels, no roll bar, recaro sports seats and a rear bench. I just wish it had the 3 spoke steering wheel that the sport package came with.

Paints, brushes and glue are on order, I just have to wait for them to be picked and I can go grab them. I've got an airbrush I want to try as well.

Wish me luck!

In reply to Mazdax605 :

It's where an inexperienced and exuberant builder (usually a kid) just glues a model together with a ton of glue. Most often not painted. The painted version of a glue bomb is a "spray bomb" that usually has paint thickness measured in mm instead of microns. See the Fury I restored:

Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to Mazdax605 :

It's where an inexperienced and exuberant builder (usually a kid) just glues a model together with a ton of glue. Most often not painted. The painted version of a glue bomb is a "spray bomb" that usually has paint thickness measured in mm instead of microns. See the Fury I restored:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/6-oYsJA6llg?rel=0

 

Okay, so I'm a glue bomber, or spray bomber. Lol 

In reply to Mazdax605 :

Not anymore! Your chassis and interior for the Delica are turning out great!

These all look so good. 

There's still painting to do but I wanted to start on some of the subassemblies of the El Camino so now I have a block/transmission with cylinder heads. I'm probably going to have to repaint a lot of the orange once the intake manifold and timing cover are on, and I'm regretting not putting all that together before paint. I did figure that out with the rear end (now painted black) and now I'm doing that with some of the interior.  Seats are assembled - I do not like how they went together but not much to do about that now, and the console is mounted. I should have all the interior bits in paint tomorrow.

Other than that, almost everything else is painted. I should start having a lot of this stuff at least partially assembled in the coming days. Still haven't even looked at the body yet.

Rocker arms not detailed. FAIL.

Some updates on the Lotus Seven. Engine decision is made. The rotary is going back in the parts box until I have time to build a left hand drive Lotus chassis. Plastic driver's elbow would melt away next to rotary exhaust on RHD car! Kit 109E Ford engine converted to Crossflow Kent 122E by gluing the intake over the spark plugs on the right side and installing plug wires in the recesses Tamiya provided to align the intake. It looks correct. Uni style air filters made from kit sprue, Tamiya provides open velocity stacks, as did Lotus Components when purchasing a new Seven kit. Suspension and wheels installed on chassis. Slowbird should note the front shocks....

Nice Lotus! I had that kit, along with some resin Minilite wheels, but sold it a few months ago. Now I wish I hadn't.

Got the body on the Aoshima NB painted. I was hoping the Tamiya Mica Blue would come out a little darker, but it looks fairly close to 10AE Blue. I'd repaint it with a darker blue, but I'm afraid I'll screw it up.

A few years ago the wife got me a Fujimi Fiat 500 kit to model Joy the Fiat.  I ordered some Minilite style wheels and had some green paint mixed but never got any further. I dug it out to try and finish while on my break.

I started with this wheel set, cut the barrels off and they fit into the stock Fiat tires. 

First of the three colors applied to the '73 Mustang. Photos to come. The interior is a battleship gray which is what they all seemed to be painted back then. I used RustOleum and it came out weird; first spray it is high gloss and still tacky a day later. Second spray and it's almost a matte finish. I don't really care as the matte is on the chassis underside but what the heck??

(FB link so this photo will vanish on its own)

I have that one piece of the cage left after modifying the other parts for a door slammer. Instructions show it going down the center kind of over the trans tunnel but Trans Am cars didn't seem to have that. Not sure if I will leave it out or try using it somewhere else. Engine is in primer after stripping the chrome off the oil pan and valve covers. I found an air cleaner closer to what was used in T/A which I think is from a General Lee kit.

Aside from the body this is a pretty terrible kit. Don't expect awesomeness.

I started laying down some color tonight. 

Paint is still VERY wet in these shots.

I think I hate Testors paint. When things open up again, I am seeking out a real hobby shop and finding some better paint. I have two cans of gloss black, and both were shooting paint in gobs and drips, which was really causing problems. These were fresh cans, too! Definitely going to need a few coats here. Hoping to start painting the smaller bits and the chassis tomorrow. 

In reply to Tony Sestito :

I haven't used Testors spray cans in a long time, but I think they've changed hands and I wouldn't be surprised if their quality was suffering for it. Tamiya may not be cheap, but it's impressed me so far and I think I'm going to be buying a lot of it in the future.

The Rustoleum cans from the Walmart are working out okay too, although they spray much thicker than the Tamiya and aren't quite as smooth. Much cheaper though.

Speaking of Testors, I had to break out an old paint marker to do the medium gray on the seats of the SVO. All SVOs apparently got Charcoal Gray interior, with cloth or optional leather seats. The cloth seats appear to have a lighter shade of gray as the inset color, and a somewhat unconventional shape of said inset on the rear seats. I painted the tub with the only dark-ish gray spray paint I have on hand, and then dabbed the paint marker along the inset. It was a thick chunky mess, but I think it'll look okay once the whole car is together. Definitely need to flat clear it though. (Can you believe I used to do almost all my painting with Testors paint markers? To be fair, they seemed to work better back then.)

Another odd thing I discovered is a problem with the exhaust piece from the turbo down to the main exhaust. It wasn't long enough to reach, so I had to cut up a piece of the parts sprue to extend it.

After gluing and then breaking and then regluing and cutting and breaking and gluing it back together, I finally made it work. You can just barely tell it's crooked:

In unrelated news, I forgot to bid at the end of an ebay auction and missed out on a relatively cheap Tamiya Sierra XR4i. The only other cheap one right now has a busted windshield, and it's $80 for a kit in good condition. 

The red on my Lotus Seven is from a Tamiya spray can. They spray as good as my air brush, and the paint lays down and flows into a perfect shine without polishing. The cans seem small, but this red can had already painted a whole Meyers Manx and a Porsche Junior tractor.

I thought I'd do more glue than paint today but I kept looking at parts and thinking they needed more. Like the all flat-black serpentine belt system should have the faces of the pulleys in aluminum or steel. And the oil filter attached to the oil pan should be a different color. Yes it would be convenient to just say it's a Fram so it's perfectly OK to be orange like the oil pan itself, but instead I dabbed it with a little metallic blue.

Having said that, I also got the interior painted with semi-gloss black. I know this forum is anti-black interiors, and I understand why, but out of all the real life '68 El Camino SSeseses I found online, all of them seemed to have black interiors.

I decided to bite the bullet and sand off the vinyl top that was molded into the body.

Time will tell whether this is a good idea or not. I figure the worst case is that I screw this up so badly that the only solution is to lop off the roof completely and build an El Camino roadster.

Inside, I was kinda dreading detailing the wheels and grille, and bit the bullet to do those tonight. Lousy picture of a perfectly adequate job:

I did get some glue use today, adding the intake manifold and timing cover to the engine

Also, I put together the truck bed. I wanted to get it all together before going to paint, though I have a feeling it's going to be tough to get decent coverage of the ends with the way the tops curve in. It'll either be too much paint or not enough, guaranteed. If I louse it up, it'll turn flat black and nobody will be the wiser.

I got more primer on the body to check my vinyl-topectomy and the passenger side looks to be pretty much done. The drivers side isn't great but I think I'll try to fill the gaps with putty instead of trying more sanding of original plastic. I have a hunch that I've already messed with the contours of the rear fender already.

Regardless, progress is being made. Paint is now limited to dibs and dabs here and there rather than anything big, and we should start seeing more subassemblies getting built in the next day or two.

I'm trying to be done with Testors spray paints. I think 1 out of every 3 or 4 cans actaully sprays nice. Tamiya is vastly better but you need to use their 'white' primer for best coverage results at least on medium to light colors. I'm using RustOleum on the crappy 73 Mustang exclusively along with some el cheapo black for the non-body stuff. Cheap 'flat black' often times is actually a nice satin black. I've got one big spray can of flat-really-satin that looks great but found out early on it HAS to have primer under it or it will just flake off. RustOleum does come out with a more powerful delivery so you have to adjust your painting to adapt. $4 on sale vs the extortion price Testors charges and I can paint many multiple kits plus have it for 1:1 projects.

Scalemates is a fun web site I came across yesterday. If you ever want to know if a model was made of something you can get an answer here. It's also helpful in seeing the history of individual kits as they have timelines of original tooling, updates, box art, etc.

In reply to Claff :

The Elky is looking great!

There is a saying that 175% of the muscle cars built with black interior have survived. It's mostly because a lot of the early reproduction stuff was black only and it's easy to dye any color black.

In reply to slowbird :

SVO is looking good! That downpipe doesn't fit right on any of the 2.3T models