So I can't really weld for E36 M3. That's in a perfect scenario, let alone one that involves highly flammable liquid.
I need to add a mounting ring for an in tank fuel pump module to the original 64 elky gas tank.
I had the thought of using a thick bead of jb weld, then pop riveting the mounting ring to the tank. Once it cures, load a large fillet of jb weld on the outer flange, going over the pop riveting. Once that cures, a heavy coat of por15, including some fiberglass mat for reinforcement.
It sounds ghetto as hell now that im typing it, but I think it will work well.
So, hive, learn me modifying a gas tank without welding.
If you have a radiator repair shop in the area they can repair or modify gas tanks for fairly cheap, that might be a solution for ya.
Otherwise you might look at soldering instead of welding since the temperatures are lower you'll less likely have a blow through.
Finally there are mobile welding outfits on CL fairly often, might be worth chatting a few up to see if they'd be willing to tackle it.
They did that for you...
fuel tank for efi
Never done business with them. Just did a google search...
No leaks. No "boom".
Might just be worth it...
Having used the tanks inc tank in a camaro once, I wasn't thatiimpressed. Additionally, by the time you get the tank pickup and such, you're right at 600. Much more than i have to spend. Ill check with the local welders, but not holding my breath. Also the only local-ish radiator shop are a bunch of crooks, so that's out.
What would rivnuts get me that pop riveting wouldn't?
Dusterbd13 wrote:
What would rivnuts get me that pop riveting wouldn't?
Bummer about the local-ish radiator shop.
Rivnuts would provide the ability to adjust the tension of the fitted piece or to more easily replace the gasket you'd likely need between the mating surfaces. You'll need the solution you choose to be flexible since the tank will expand and contract due to heat, etc.
Dusterbd13 wrote:
What would rivnuts get me that pop riveting wouldn't?
A leaky gap between the two pieces.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Google it, its a threaded tube that you install into a panel kinda like a pop rivet, used extensively on aircraft.
There is a product called "Seal-All" that works particularly well for gas tanks. I wouldn't be afraid to use it with pop rivets on the top of the tank.
Google "seal-all" or http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ECE2/380112/N0400.oap?ck=Search_N0400_1178557_-1&pt=N0400&ppt=C2392
I work in aerospace and our fuel tanks are riveted together and sealed with PPG PR-2007 sealant. Good enough for jet fuel. I don't see any problem with this route if you use the proper sealant.
Aeromotive does a nice in-tank setup. Might be able to get just the ring parts to make it work without buying their expensive pump.
http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/stealth-fuel-systems/subcat/phantom-system/
You cut a hole in the top, then there is a ring above and a ring below that bolt together with a gasket. It even works with the corrugated dips in a typical tank.
JBWeld won't do it.
Are you totally convinced on using an in-tank pump? The reason I ask is there are thousands of external pump options you can use with the existing tank.
I would see no problem with rivets and a proper, fuel safe sealant/adhesive. I would certainly take extra care in making sure both surfaces are very clean and controlling as many variables as possible. This is going to be at the top of the tank, right?
Do keep in mind that you should still take precautions when drilling the tank. I know I have made many a spark with drill bits, and it's the gasoline vapor you really need to worry about here.
I've had very favorable results with a local acid dipping service in the past. Something like $54 dollars and a 4-6 day turn around for gas tanks. Then you can weld, solder, set it on fire, throw it at the sun, etc. without worrying about dying a horrific death. Plus it will be rust and sludge free!
IIRC Ditchdigger and I both tried to get a radiator shop to boil out gas tanks and it was either cost prohibitive or they just wouldn't do it.
I just leave a leaf blower stuck in one hole for half an hour, no explosions.
I have a motorcycle that had some pinhole rust through at the bottom outside edge of the gas tank. I was going to weld it, but I really didn't want to give up my original paint. The spot was all the way at the bottom where it was pretty hard to see, but welding was going to require a re-spray anyway.
I ended up scuffing the paint around the damage with scotch-brite and covering the area with a 1/4" layer of JB Steel Stick putty.
http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267-S-SteelStik-Reinforced/dp/B000786GLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409834018&sr=8-1&keywords=jb+steel+stick
I have been riding around on this motorcycle all summer. No leaks, drips, nothing. Definitely ghetto, but sometimes ghetto works.
