I would like to put air shocks on Jean Clyde Damn Van (92 Safari, lowered in the rear) because hooking up the car trailer drops the rear a little too much. Any reason not to get one over the others? The AC and the Monroes are within dollars of each other (@$67). The Gabriel Hi-Jackers are $100/pr. Thoughts?
I just put a pair of these on the '94 Dodge B-250 conversion van my Dad gave to my son for graduation. I didn't want to mess with air shocks, and these offer a little bit of help when loaded. So sorry, no experience with air shocks, but these Monroe's seem to be doing the job so far.
A couple of thoughts:
First, do you have a weight distributing hitch? That's the first thing to do.
Depending on how the van handles empty, I might prefer air shocks to shocks with helper springs. I did the latter on a Suburban. It's similar to adding a BIG rear sway bar. I ended up with sudden oversteer. Not great. With air shocks, you can air them down when not towing.
I'd consider getting air bags for it. I had some on my old G10 van and they worked great.
If the van hauls everything else you do with it get a equalizer hitch for the trailer. There are quite a number of styles, each having + / - points. And I've used most; be glad to advise.
I've done air shocks on Astro's. Gabriel and Monroe's were so similar (though years apart) might have rolled off same line! AC didn't make air shocks at the time, but I expect they are same.
Did the Monroe spring over shock on an Gbody cutlass... did not dislike em, but air shocks would have suited my use better. Never did change em though.
Air Lift bags, would be better than either shock, by far!
but, again. If all is good but the car trailer, a weight distribution hitch is better than any of those... if fact, when in use, air bags/shocks can be a detriment to its function. That answer gets complicated!
03Panther said:If the van hauls everything else you do with it get a equalizer hitch for the trailer. There are quite a number of styles, each having + / - points. And I've used most; be glad to advise.
I've done air shocks on Astro's. Gabriel and Monroe's were so similar (though years apart) might have rolled off same line! AC didn't make air shocks at the time, but I expect they are same.
Did the Monroe spring over shock on an Gbody cutlass... did not dislike em, but air shocks would have suited my use better. Never did change em though.
Air Lift bags, would be better than either shock, by far!but, again. If all is good but the car trailer, a weight distribution hitch is better than any of those... if fact, when in use, air bags/shocks can be a detriment to its function. That answer gets complicated!
I need the simplest cost effective means of not bottoming out. The trailer is a single axle car trailer. The car is a stripped Scirocco. I used to haul with a promaster van with no issues. This is the first time trying with the Safari.
I put a set of the Gabriels on my old Magnum R/T for similar reasons. They worked great, I really liked them.
I went down this road with my lowered Tahoe. Ended up going to stiffer leaf springs ($145 to $180 from SD truck springs for your Astro) and replaced the stock bump stops with long GMT800 progressive stops. I was dealing with ~700 lbs of tongue weight.
Because the GMT800 stops are designed to be part of the suspension travel, that alone may be a good enough cheap option if they are the right length. Tahoe front stops are fairly short and worked for me, Suburban 2500 rear stops are quite a bit longer and can be cut down to whatever length you need.
I've never had an aftermarket air shock last very long, and the few spring options I've tried all had pretty terrible damping and quickly started leaking. Not a huge amount of experience, but enough to hesitate recommending either one.
In reply to vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) :
That's exactly it. That is the oldest style, and the cheap quality is exactly the same as the expensive brand names, in that style.
Completely effective. It stiffens the connection between van and trailer. Takes some on the "tongue weight" off the rear axle, and moves it to front axle and trailer axle. Hard to explain, but it works.
Primary function is Weight Distribution
Moving load helps from bottoming. Stiffening up connection helps with not bottoming out, and a bit of sway control, as a side benefit. Spring bars and chains help a tint bib with sway.
If (and I don't think you application will) a trailer still has a bit of a sway problem a friction device can be added to the side of it, but that's a teaching opportunity for another day!
TLDR: yep. Well worth the $230. Other options exist as well, but that's the old school basic start 
In reply to gearheadE30 :
All good info. I will remind that the stiffer springs will affect ride even when not towing. Roadmaster Active Suspension sells a helper spring; claims it is better than leaf's, but it's the same. Good product; I've used it on two trucks. But it raises height, despite claim, and makes rear as lot stiffer. Good if needed, not what he needs.
I think he mixed and matched his springs to get the ride he wanted empty and lowered. Not positive
vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) said:From Harbor freight. Available in store.
Oh, and Rural King had there china brand just like it, for a few more dollars, but comes with the friction sway control device, as well, so better deal if needed. If you'll ever tow an enclosed trailer, ya prolly will. Doubt you do for the open trailer.
Used, you can find some newer styles for the 2-300 range. They do have some advantages, but I would not spend the way higher dollars for them!
So I went to the future hammer store and bought me the weight distribution hitch! Thanks for the input. I do have a set of air shocks I took off a parts van I can always add later. What I've read is to keep them about 30 psi when not towing or hauling anything to keep the ride from being too bouncy. I was unclear as to y'all's feelings about the wd hitch and adding air shocks as well. Do or do not?
Try the hitch just the hitch first, and weigh the load, all three axles. There are several things to do do fine tune those hitches. I think, tuned in right, you'll be extremely happy.
I could show a guy like you how to get it just right, in about ten minutes. Weighing it multiple times, and actually doing it, takes a bit longer!
As long as it's not WAY out of wack, close enough will work out fine.
If you need more anti bounce we can address that after the hitch is right
One of the airstream crowd, years ago, took a video of the trailer hooked to a early toronado fwd. Had the hitch springs adjusted so the rear wheels were completely off the ground, and towed it around the parking lot 
Just my opinion, but I would not do that with an Astro 
In reply to 03Panther :
I've watched a couple videos and will watch a bunch more about setting it up plus whatever instructions come with the hitch. The more sources I find the better I formed I'll be and be able to get close on my set-up. There's a metal recycler about 15 minutes away where I may be able to get on there scales. Weigh the whole thing your saying, correct?
In reply to vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) :
weighing gets complicated. I use the truck stops to get a weight on each of all three axles. Front, rear, and trailer. (Although not an question here, a tandem counts as one axle, except a few exceptions for "us" civilians) Wasn't long ago, it was $7 for a "first weigh" and $1 for each "re weigh" in 24 hrs. Now it's 12/2, and prolly increasing!
Anyweigh (ha)
example:
empty
F 2250 lbs
R 2640
T r 0.0
total - 4790
full load:
F 2140
R 2850
Tr 1800
Note rear got heavier, front got lighter. Now add WD hitch; springs will take weight off rear, "push" some to front, and a smaller amount to trailer axle
I'll try to find a couple recent scale ticked; get better numbers instead of made up ones!
So should I not use the air shocks at all? I'll be spending most of Monday figuring out how to set up the weight distribution hitch.
In reply to vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) :
If you like the current ride ( I think I remember you doing spring work to get there?) And your other "normal" loads are satisfactory, I think the hitch, even set up mediocre, will do all you need, with the car and single axle trailer
will need to know:
front axle empty
Rear axle empty
tongue weight with car one trailer, not hooked to van
and trailer axle weight with car (can be hooked, no equalizer)
a few different ways to get all this. Don't need the side to side like racing!
then F, R, and Tr axles loaded.
then F, R and Tr with WD hitch hooked up. Whew!
adjust for more or less on front axle (all three each change) by how tight the spring bars are.
THEN, some advice to ensure WD hitch is fine tuned (and I think you'll have it by then)
IF it still bottoms, we'll have to discuss air bags, air shocks, heavier springs or all the myriad of options 
Or, if it bottoms on other "normal" loads!
And sway control (I don't foresee you needing any, unless you go to a big enclosed trailer) is a whole 'Nother subject!
TLDR: slap the WD hitch on, close enough, see if it bottoms out... go from there if it needs anything else
In reply to 03Panther :
TLDR: slap the WD hitch on, close enough, see if it bottoms out... go from there if it needs anything else.
That's the plan for today as I don't have easy access to scales.
Honestly think you'll be fine! That WD hitch is kinda intimidating , but really quite simple! One thing to point out : they are NOISY! You'll hear enough creaking and groaning, it sounds like stuff it roping apart! Quite unnerving.
For learning, pull the chain lifting hooks up after everything is hooked up, and all trailer is resting on hitch. If the chain link you want goes in place super easy, you want one more link (shorter for more spring tension)
When it's a struggle to get the chain link to stay in hook while ya lift, and its all you can do with supplied bar (unless your a Strongman competitor) that'll be about right for your set up - I think!!!
I'll then tell ya an easier way to do it, or get more spring tension, with a "pro-tip"!
im available today: call tre tre fo - 7 tre tre - 78 fo 7 if ya like
In reply to 03Panther :
Sensei, I did as you described and took it for a drive. Seems fine. The front went up about a half inch and the rear dropped less than an inch. I think I want to go back to 15 inch rims and tires to gain back some ground clearance though. Plus the added side wall will make the ride better. Plus I don't think sport comp 2s are the best for towing.
Thanks!
I even had time to make the driver's side trailer fender removable so I can get in and out of the car now. Woo hoo!
Next up, prepping the car for its first (and probably only) track day.
Very good to hear, and not at all surprised it went well. It totally slipped my mind that some folks ( and I have) measure fender to ground front / rear for before /after. With that spec. I'd wager your weights would look good too!
A tire set for towing, and a set for cruising is a fantastic plan. Hassle, but the racers types change tire sets out all the time!!!
We'll get to a few "pro" tips later.
In reply to 03Panther :
Eagerly waiting. Maybe start a new thread?
BTW; pictures, or it didn't happen!!!
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