docwyte said:The cheat code is to get ceramic tint. With it you don't need something really dark to get the temperature control you want in a sunny climate.
That makes a lot more sense.
I have always wondered how black tinted glass isn't making the car hotter since black absorbs heat. Still, I do understand the principle of "sitting in the shade"...
The steering wheel hub spacer linked above from 949racing.com (importer of spacershop.com XTNDR from Europe) arrived Monday and I installed it today.
Fitment is great but the wiring isn't happy after re-assembly. I used the included jumpers between the clock spring and airbag harnesses but I got a persistent code that can't be cleared by my scanner. The video above shows an install without the jumpers but an extension to the ground strap so I guess that's next.
Pictures because who wants to read about it when there are pictures.
Test drive ergonomics validate the concept. Definitely a more comfortable wheel position for me - and the controls do feel weird but I can reach them so I will get used to it.
This video was the best for airbag removal procedure.
Pulled the steering wheel airbag back off and removed one of the two jumpers that I had added - and soldered in an extension onto the ground conductor. Full disclosure: I wasn't able to get the 2nd jumper out - the clips wouldn't release and I only had about a half inch of slack and decided to leave it in there rather than risk damaging it. And yes I taped it
Fortunately the 1st jumper must have been the problem in the connection because I took a chance and re-assembled. The car still had a airbag code at startup but the code was able to be cleared with my scanner.
Gonna call this a victory with a little bit of luck. 🍀
Onward to the next thing..
Have lived with the steering wheel hub spacer for a couple weeks and the suspension refresh for about a month. Both combine to make a night and day difference from the car I purchased. Zero regrets.
Keeping an eye on the coolant leak - it's just weeping for now but I got a new hose and o-ring. I'm about 400 miles from an oil change and I plan to do both at the same time.
I am thinking about a dashcam. Found rear view mirror power tap available on eBay. What do we like for a decent dashcam - lets say budget is $150?
I put a ROVE R2-4K DUAL Dash Cam (on sale for $179.99 CAD when I bought it) in my E90, it's tucked in behind the mirror on the divers side and blends in pretty good there. I powered it with a hard wire kit from the fuse box behind the glove box with both accessory and constant power (using fuse taps) letting it work normally as well as in parking mode. It was easy to slip the wiring in behind the trim getting power up to the camera along with the wire from front camera to rear camera (that wire was very long, the excess I tucked under the third brake light trim). It has good reviews, the footage is pretty clear night/day and it is easy to connect to the app on my phone over wifi to set it up and review footage.
For the hard wire kit the Rove one comes with a straight type-c connector but the power goes into the side of this camera so a 90 was better - this is the one I bought which works fine with the camera (some of these the camara will not work in parking mode). There is an adjustable low voltage cutoff so it doesn't drain the battery, I set mine to the highest setting which gives me a few hours of parking mode without fear of the battery being too drained over the winter. I do get a code for a bi-stable relay fault, these cars know when there is any extra draw that shouldn't be there but that hasn't effected me in a negative way.
I like it enough I bought the version without the rear camera to throw in our Subaru which doesn't get used as much.
Drove the car every day this week due to RTO. Still stuck in my head: a slight hesitation when I made a right turn (on red) on last Saturday. Had a large gap that got small fast when the car stumbled. But it didn't stall. It also seems to be down on power relative to late fall. I'm using the same gas and it seems healthy otherwise
Right at 99,650 miles I'm pondering replacing the vanos solenoids as a maintenance item. Internet seems to think the Pierburg pieces are just as good if not the same as the BMW parts. What says the GRM brain trust?
In reply to OHSCrifle :
On the right turn stumble, I have two ideas:
1. does it flash the traction control or stability control light at the same time?
2. My 2003 Mazda6 did something similar when the fuel level got down to 1/4-tank, because there was a split in the tube between the pickup and the pump inside the tank, and it would suck air in those conditions.
On the Pierburg question, they are an OE supplier to BMW, and I used several Pierburg parts on the E38 and E60 over the years. I trust that brand.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I've also used Pierburg parts on my E82, and have had zero complaints.
Pierberg is an OE BMW supplier. I believe they make our OEM water pump.
I replaced my Vanos solenoids as preventative maintenance. I believe I used BMW branded parts, but I'm not sure if it was necessary or not. I do recall the install being extremely easy and straightforward, only taking a few minutes.
In reply to roninsoldier83 :
I'm leaning in that same direction. Not a huge cost and the solenoids supposedly wear out slowly.
Did you also inspect (or replace) the vanos "filters" located on the exhaust port side of the engine - accessible from behind the passenger side wheel well liner?
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
No flashing of stability control.
If you are considering getting a 128i - there is a slick top (auto) for sale on FBM in Dacula, GA right now for $6,500. I have not gone to see it but it was listed for (at least) a couple months at $7k and was recently reduced. Wish mine was a slick top but not enough to go buy another one.
Even though I'm probably around $11k into this car due a bunch of maintenance plus some upgrades - I'm still a fan.
On the stumble, does yours have the n52 or n51? The n51 sulev fuel tank has a line in it that tends to come loose & leak pressure. Coils are common as well, they will cause a shutter, sometimes without setting a misfire or check engine light. Bmw recommend swapping the all black bosch coils to delphi coils with a silver metal sleave. The gm6 auto also can develop a torque converter shutter on high load acceleration, a fluid/filter change with a bottle of shutter stop normally helps with this
In reply to Caperix :
Mine's got the N52 and it has new OE coils, plugs, crankshaft and eccentric shaft position sensors. New air filter, valve cover and oil filter gasket, too.
The stutter I experienced was definitely motor not trans. Carfax shows the trans got "serviced" at 80 and a "fluid exchange" at 91k miles (currently just under 100k). Honestly the trans feels great once it's up to temperature.
That's why I am thinking a couple hundred bucks for new vanos solenoids may be a worthwhile item.
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