Need a rear end for my Starlet

So I got a starlet (I have two threads floating here and there about it). It has some serious rust issues but being in MO means that is normal and compared to the other starlets I have seen, this one is great. It is worth mentioning that this is the first starlet I have ever seen. It have a 54" rear axle that is about as durable as a paper umbrella. I am planning moderate to fair HP and figure that working in a new rearend while doing rust repair is a good idea.

Here is the question:

I need a rear end that can handle up to lets say 300 ft lbs of torque and can be made to fit under a starlet with a 54" axle. I would prefer to not run flairs but will if needed and I WILL NOT be buying custom axles. I might be willing to have some resplined but I would prefer, if shortening is required, to just be able to buy two short side axles and call it a day. I am willing to go IRS since I have to rebuild the floor anyway but if so it needs to fit from the beginning. Plan is to make the front hubs match the rears.

Options so far:

GSL SE RX7 axle running two short side axles to fit pretty perfectly (can't find one locally. There is one 3 hours away but is $350. Not good on a challenge budget) I have access to a few FC RX7s but these are WIDE Ford Ranger 7.5" from the 80s (width is close) Miata (because that is the answer, not many locally to pick from) I may have a friend with an 80 Corolla but the diff is welded.

Ok, too much info maybe.

How about a ranger 7.5" (up to 92) with the long side cut to match the short side. This should put it around 54". I dont want 5 lug but beggers can't be choosers.

Many fox body Mustangs were 4 lug.

Yeah but the foxes were a silly 4x108 pattern. I could go back to a mustang II rearend but we are just getting heavier.

Mopar A-body 8 1/4"? 55" wide, not too expensive since they're often swapped out for something bigger, but they'll take 300 lb/ft of torque no problem. They are 5 lug though.

Hmmm... '60s era Mustangs had the same width axle, and the 6 cylinder models were 4 lugs. Another possible unloved axle that could be used...

I will check out the a body axle. Psteav may know where one is since he is a Mopar guy. I'm not totally opposed to 5 lug but it just doesn't fit the car as well, plus I have to run 15"s then instead of 13s.

How about a BMW 2002/E21/E30 rear end? They have the 4x100 that I'm guessing the Startlet has...

"T" code aka 10 bolt toyota out of a RWD celica can take that. Widely used and many ratio sets of gears from 330 to 430. should be bolt in swap i belive sarlet used S code but have seen some with smaller U codes too. Whats the vin tag say under axle code?

44Dwarf wrote: Whats the vin tag say under axle code?

I will check when I get home. That would be awesome if it was a bolt in. The corolla axles apparently only have one mount that doesn't need to be moved.

Considering the amount of reconstruction you need to do down there, how hard would cramming in a Miata rear subframe be?

Not hard. Can they handle 300.ft ok?

Saw this thread earlier and knew there was a Starlet with Mustang rear swap in the shop tonight so I took a couple pics when I went back to work on a 12 bolt I'm rebuilding. This car is getting flared fenders. They're in the car if ya want a pic of them I can get one.

Replied to your PM about this. You should be able to get a Ford Ranger 8.8 axle from a '90-'92 with the 4.0L engine. Use two driver's side axles and shorten the axle tube to match. I'd have to run the numbers again, but I think that should hold up to 300 ft-lbs no problem. It's also really cheap and you'll have a great selection of cheap lockers and gear ratios.

For anyone else who's interested, here are some links about this and some of my notes about the setup and approximate dimensions (I haven't measure any of these for the Rangers so only trust it as far as you trust non-GRM forums).

I haven't done a ranger axle, but did a couple of the explorer ones recently. Basically, you can get a 8.8" Ranger axle (28 spline axle shafts) and you'll find that the differential is offset on the axle housing (one axle shaft is longer than the other). You can cut down the long-side axle tube to the same length as the short side and run two short-side axle shafts. This should give you a 53.25" axle assembly. Here's a link to someone who did this with the explorer axle. I did nearly the exact same thing with mine. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253388 The problem with using the Ranger axles is that they are 28 spline vs 31 splines in the explorers. The 28 spline axles are not quite as strong, but with such a light car I doubt this will be a problem for you. Here are a few more useful links about the ranger axles. http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/announcement.php?f=16 http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html You'll want to find a 1990-1992 Ranger with the 4.0L engine. Those will have the narrowest overall width, and also have the 8.8" ring and pinion. Find a second rear end with the same specs and take the driver's side (shorter) axle shaft from that as well. I believe the driver's side axle is 26.25" long and the passenger's is 29.125", so when you swap the passenger's side shaft with a driver's side you should narrow the unit by 2.875". The axle assembly should be around 56.25" wide from the factory so you'll end up with something around 53.375" when you're done.

How about the rear from an early Capri?

IIRC, the capri axles won't take 300 lb-ft, not much for aftermarket anything here in the states and a lack of a stock LSD. Definitly not my first choice. Maybe in Europe where parts are more plentiful...

Dunno if it will handle the 300 ft lb, but an axle from a RX2 or RX3 is 53" wide and uses RX7/Miata diff parts. That's what is under the Jensenator.

The Atlas out of a Capri should deal with 300lb/ft just fine, especially in such a light car, as long as it is in good condition. That said, an LSD will not be remotely cheap, so keep that in mind.

In reply to Rad_Capz:

Cool! Bring on the flair pictures

In reply to JohnyHachi6:

Thanks for the help Johny. I have thrown a wanted ad on the local CL as car-part wants too much money...

For the ultimate nuke-proof rear axle on the cheap, look at the Dana 44 limited slip that came under the Postal Jeeps. They're around 50" and allow for wide rims/tires under your car. We just installed one under a '55 Hilmann Husky and it fit perfectly.

A TR7/TR8 rear end will take that amount of torque/horsepower if you don't beat on it and is around 55" wide.

I'm using an MGC rear end in my MGA. At around 50" it a good fit and strong as well. Maybe not as much as you're after, but it'll take my 5.0 easily.

If you come across anything nice and narrow that has decent highway gears in it (the RX7's don't by any means) please post.

Thanks,

T

The more I look that more I like the ranger option. It can get pretty narrow with the long side cut to match the short side and it is factory available with 3.08s to 3.73s with lots of other jy ratios available from mustangs and such.

Ok, So change of plan... We need to make a philosophical choice.

Do I use an e30 rear subframe, with the trailing link (need this over miata due to ratios available)

Or do I make a 3 link with a panhard for a live axle?

What say the brain trust?

Also, the best axle I have found for "highway gearing" is an 80s ranger running two short side axles to make it about 54" wide. That is about it.

44Dwarf wrote: "T" code aka 10 bolt toyota out of a RWD celica can take that. Widely used and many ratio sets of gears from 330 to 430. should be bolt in swap i belive sarlet used S code but have seen some with smaller U codes too. Whats the vin tag say under axle code?

I'm thinking this. Get one from a junk yard, bolt it in, call it a day.

My research has led me to believe that isn't anymore of a boltin than the ranger and it is still too wide meaning custom axles since there isn't a good way to shorten with stock parts.