OK then, Miata setup!

Keith wrote: I've seen that claim, but I've not seen it done yet. It pops up once in a while and I don't think anyone has actually managed to back it up. Later ECUs certainly can be reflashed - our NC is getting new programs daily. But the chips on the stock boards aren't rewritable from what I understand. You can probably solder in a new identical ROM with different programming, that would probably be pretty difficult to detect for Spec Miata. And it involves a soldering iron :)

I think the issue is that as you can get a better and cheaper solution with other methods, the only people who want the re-flash are those who are trying to cheat in either Spec Miata or ES. I very much doubt that any of those people are likely to come forward and say 'Hey, this awesome new cheat works/doesn't work' Sort of catch 22.

205/50/15 Falken Azenis Rt615's are going on today (thank you DTD for a $250 set of tires!) along with an alignment (-1.2 Camber, 5.0 Caster, 1/16" Toe OUT in FRONT; -1.75 Camber, 1/16" Toe IN in REAR).

To OP, how is the progress of your STS Miata build? Just curious, I am thinking about buying an NA Miata and build it for STS class same as you, isn't factory VLSD legal in STS? If so, should I find an NA Miata with or without VLSD? Or it doesn't matter since the LSD might have lost its effectiveness due to age anyway? Do most people run open diff or factory VLSD in STS?

I have an open diff, and the STS Region Champion this year had a VLSD. Neither one of us thought it was an advantage.

Unfortunately my build got sidetracked with maintenance, so although I did a lot to the car, nothing really helped it go faster. Hopefully we will remedy that over the winter.

I would recommend just driving a bunch of cars and deciding what you like. Some people (like me) like the 1.6L's "spunkiness", others prefer the 1.8L's additional power, some like options (I have PS, ABS, and CC), others like manual everything. At a local level none of it makes any difference. Just buy what you like.

There've been a few years of development in STS, so there is a rather clear formula to building one. I've followed as much as I could afford this year. Coilovers, Bilsteins, Big front sway, Dunlop Star Specs. The coilvers do alot... increase spring rate, and the lowering allows for 2.5 front camber/2.1 rear. The FCM tophats or equal are important to making it work. Without tophats, it will bottom out often. I do have the VLSD...it does work, but like Javelin says, not sure how big a difference it makes. Power stuff is last on my list, but I do have header, noisy exhaust, different intake...I do drive it everyday, about 8K/year...even with 650f/325r springs, with the Bilsteins and tophats, it doesn't have a harsh ride. Just have to watch out for speedbumps and scraping the exhaust...

Not to bring back old thread but I am wondering if changing all the rubber bushings with poly bushings will make a big difference in handling or not?

it should make everything feel quite a bit sharper, but it shouldn't make an understeering or oversteering car neutral unless your factory bushings have reduced themselves to the consistency of jello and are letting the alignment change so much that you're flexing over onto the very edge of the contact patch. bushings will make the car feel nicer, but it's doubtful that the stopwatch will be able to tell the difference, unless the bushings somehow give you more confidence to push the car harder

Bushings aren't likely to make a BIG difference, but they're almost always a nice addition. If your rubber bushings are shot they will definitely be noticed.

Kramer wrote: Doh! It is 1/8" toe IN!

Not to bring back old thread but I have also read that 0 toe also works well. I am about to get my '96 Miata aligned so I am trying to figure out what's a good set-up for a '96 Miata with the old FM stage 2.5 suspension kit (the one with KYB AGX). It's mainly for autocross and fun car in general, not daily driver.

I always set toe to 0 on Miatae and love it.