Cat efficiency code(p0420) is in the top 5 most common codes for Subaru. And is almost always fixed with a new 02 sensor. My Baja spit good ole 420 at me so I bought the new sensor cleared the code but it has not come back in over 2000 miles.
Cat efficiency code(p0420) is in the top 5 most common codes for Subaru. And is almost always fixed with a new 02 sensor. My Baja spit good ole 420 at me so I bought the new sensor cleared the code but it has not come back in over 2000 miles.
That's pretty much the most common code for everyone. O2's can fix it, but in a dealership service setting it is IMPERATIVE that the customer understands it might only be the first step.
Dashpot wrote: I don't work in the industry but I bet the dealers get dinged pretty hard on customer satisfaction surveys for rework. Most people would rather "do it once, do it right" than go through multiple visits for "the same problem", especially if the dealer 20+ miles away from home. Corey's approach is perfectly reasonable if his friend is prepared for the potential of multiple visits & extra labor costs. The dealer did nothing wrong, it seems to be standard practice to replace any component/assembly flagged by the ECU code vs piece-meal solutions. A standard that probably developed from customers complaining of half-baked repairs on their satisfaction surveys.
This is exactly right. But we won't let that get in the way of a good dealership bashing. They're all theives, all crooks etc etc etc. Same E36 M3, different day. I'd rather take my car to a dealer than any number of chain places that specialize in ripping off people too stupid to shop around.
In reply to Bobzilla:
Dashpot wrote: I don't work in the industry but I bet the dealers get dinged pretty hard on customer satisfaction surveys for rework. Most people would rather "do it once, do it right" than go through multiple visits for "the same problem", especially if the dealer 20+ miles away from home. Corey's approach is perfectly reasonable if his friend is prepared for the potential of multiple visits & extra labor costs. The dealer did nothing wrong, it seems to be standard practice to replace any component/assembly flagged by the ECU code vs piece-meal solutions. A standard that probably developed from customers complaining of half-baked repairs on their satisfaction surveys. This is exactly right. But we won't let that get in the way of a good dealership bashing. They're all theives, all crooks etc etc etc. Same E36 M3, different day. I'd rather take my car to a dealer than any number of chain places that specialize in ripping off people too stupid to shop around.
Say what? You think the dealers are doing their customers a favor by replacing every possible part rather than doing their job and diagnoseing the problem? This isn't dealer bashing. It's lazy tech bashing for not doing the job that they are paid to do.
"All done Mr. Smith, the vibration you complained about is gone. It could have been a tire, a wheel, or a cv joint. To ensure it was fixed the first time, we replaced everything. Smooth as butter now. That will be $3000 please. "
rcutclif wrote: ...I do know there is at least one economic driver for dealerships to just read the codes and then offer to replace everything on the list - time...
Second possible reason: If the vehicle is in good shape and you hand owner an estimate for 20-30% of the car's value they may walk to the showroom and start shopping (or skip fixing and purchase a new car in the very near future and take the hit on the trade). Possible double profit by selling a new car and going the cheap route on fixing the trade...not that a new car dealer would have any incentive to put somebody in a new car.
Curmudgeon: thanks for explaining that, I had a working idea about that chain of events (MAF down to cat) but you solidified it.
Bobzilla: Some dealers are better than others, same as any other thing. If you were close to my house I'd probably take my cars to you because you seem honest.
On the dealer thing, I've found that dealers that advertise "The biggest in the metro area!" or that run "Bad Credit OK!" type ads tend to be the most dishonest.
I don't know when the car first went into service or how many miles it has, but before spending any money, I would check the warranty info that came with the owners manual. Emissions components can have a really long warranty, based on EPA compliance. Some dealer service writers don't really know their own brand's warranty coverage.
Can of maf cleaner and a code reader for $50 would be my first step.
8/80 is the federal emissions warranty.
You'll need to log in to post.
