Power Stop Brake Kits?

Like Franks Red Hot, I put that E36 M3 on everything!

Seriously - 2x F250s, a Subaru, a C5 Vette, 2x Hyundai Sonatas, a Failblazer, and a few other rigs.  Always go premium, always go drilled and slotted on my personal cars, even on my F250, because I like stuff like that.  

I forgot that I even made this thread. 

I ended up getting brakes from these guys instead: https://maxbrakes.com/

I've run them twice on my Mazda 3 with good results. They were skeptically cheap; $160 shipped for 4 e-coated rotors and carbon metallic pads. Ran the last set for over 60k miles, and the rotors still had the e-coating where it needed to be, and no cracks. Pads still had a little life left as well. 

Stefan wrote:

I put slotted rotors on the front of the wife's Highlander and it helped keep the pads from glazing as desired.  Worth it for the slight loss of surface area.

Drilled rotors are a waste of thermal mass and surface area on top of the potential for cracking (even chamfered holes can crack, but it is less likely).

I agree. On cheap rotors cracking can occur but the point is that even on well built cross-drilled rotors, the benefits are really zero except fpr appearance and bragging rights.

I own a BMW that came with drilled discs stock and replaced them with factory rotors, but would have been just as happy with undrilled. I have never used drilled rotors on any of my race cars.  The technique was useful for a brief time when outgassing of the pads could be an issue, but no longer with modern compound formulations.  OTOH, I do use slotted!

Tony Sestito said:

I forgot that I even made this thread. 

I ended up getting brakes from these guys instead: https://maxbrakes.com/

I've run them twice on my Mazda 3 with good results. They were skeptically cheap; $160 shipped for 4 e-coated rotors and carbon metallic pads. Ran the last set for over 60k miles, and the rotors still had the e-coating where it needed to be, and no cracks. Pads still had a little life left as well. 

You weren’t kidding about low prices. I just looked and it’s about $160 for all 4 wheels with their top of the line kit. 

wspohn said:

Stefan wrote:

I put slotted rotors on the front of the wife's Highlander and it helped keep the pads from glazing as desired.  Worth it for the slight loss of surface area.

Drilled rotors are a waste of thermal mass and surface area on top of the potential for cracking (even chamfered holes can crack, but it is less likely).

I agree. On cheap rotors cracking can occur but the point is that even on well built cross-drilled rotors, the benefits are really zero except fpr appearance and bragging rights.

I own a BMW that came with drilled discs stock and replaced them with factory rotors, but would have been just as happy with undrilled. I have never used drilled rotors on any of my race cars.  The technique was useful for a brief time when outgassing of the pads could be an issue, but no longer with modern compound formulations.  OTOH, I do use slotted!

Also, keep in mind that drilled rotors can be used in situations where you need to alter the thermal or physical mass of the system and you are unable to decrease the size of the rotors or the size of the brake pads.  A Formula Ford racer I know, used drilled rotors in the rear of his car to reduce rotating weight and help balance braking without having to make a larger change at the balance bar.  Think of it similar to making a sway bar change instead of changing spring rates.  For street cars with oversized brakes, I can see a benefit to help them warm up more quickly and get into the working range.  Often those same brakes will overheat when abused on the track without at least a pad compound change.

Man, you guys are bad influences 

I just started getting a little vibration while braking on my Wrangler about 2 weeks ago.

I was seriously eyballing a Powerstop kit as I figured I'd upgrade the braking since I have to replace the rotors anyway.

I just bought a Maxbrakes Elite kit for the front and rear for less than the front would of cost me from Powerstop.

Jeeps are known for having crappy brakes and since I'm running 15" wheels, I cannot put bigger rotors on.

I'll update this thread when I get them on and bedded.

stanger_missle said:

Man, you guys are bad influences 

I just started getting a little vibration while braking on my Wrangler about 2 weeks ago.

I was seriously eyballing a Powerstop kit as I figured I'd upgrade the braking since I have to replace the rotors anyway.

I just bought a Maxbrakes Elite kit for the front and rear for less than the front would of cost me from Powerstop.

Jeeps are known for having crappy brakes and since I'm running 15" wheels, I cannot put bigger rotors on.

I'll update this thread when I get them on and bedded.

Interested. Better brakes are on the long list for the zj.

It seems they were higher quality when they hit the market years ago; the last kit for my maxda5 had a warped rotor out of the box. I ordered another pair of rotors and got one good one and one warped one. Installed the two good ones sent the other two back. In this day and age a warped rotor out of the box is bad quality and two in two kits is very bad.

In reply to chandler :

Are you talking about Powerstop or Max Brakes?

No Time said:

In reply to chandler :

Are you talking about Powerstop or Max Brakes?

Interested as well...I was going to put MaxBrakes basic rotors and pads on my Civic daily beater, but was also going to order two sets of their Elite rotors for the stage rally car.

Sorry, I was speaking of the powerstop; I’d not heard of Max until this thread.

I ordered the Maxbrakes elite kits, and they should be arriving from Canada on Wednesday. 

I’ll post photos and feedback once I get them installed. 

Anyone running the Track Spec pad in anything?

Canoe