Pete. (l33t FS) said:Steve_Jones said:Might sound dumb, but I'd disconnect the battery for 24 hours. See what resets.
Ooooh, disconnecting the battery on a modern car, especially a Euro car, can cause all SORTS of problems.
Do that on a BMW and you're in for a couple hours of re-registering about 150 different control modules.
Wait, a modern BMW has no way to bootstrap itself and figure out what modules are physically in the car on the CAN? That's hilarious!
WonkoTheSane (FS) said:Pete. (l33t FS) said:Steve_Jones said:Might sound dumb, but I'd disconnect the battery for 24 hours. See what resets.
Ooooh, disconnecting the battery on a modern car, especially a Euro car, can cause all SORTS of problems.
Do that on a BMW and you're in for a couple hours of re-registering about 150 different control modules.
Wait, a modern BMW has no way to bootstrap itself and figure out what modules are physically in the car on the CAN? That's hilarious!
Do not question our engineers. They have determined the optimal methods.
WonkoTheSane (FS) said:Pete. (l33t FS) said:Steve_Jones said:Might sound dumb, but I'd disconnect the battery for 24 hours. See what resets.
Ooooh, disconnecting the battery on a modern car, especially a Euro car, can cause all SORTS of problems.
Do that on a BMW and you're in for a couple hours of re-registering about 150 different control modules.
Wait, a modern BMW has no way to bootstrap itself and figure out what modules are physically in the car on the CAN? That's hilarious!
It's hilarious until someone takes their Z4 to Autozone for a new battery and now nothing works and they are confused why it is going to be so expensive to make everything work again when nothing's "broken".
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I'm sure there's a good reason for this somewhere but for all of our innovation as a society this is major step backwards. If a Hyundai can "park" itself a BMW should be able to accept a new battery and figure it out
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
So what do you do? Hook up a jump box while you swap the battery?
Pete. (l33t FS) said:Steve_Jones said:Might sound dumb, but I'd disconnect the battery for 24 hours. See what resets.
Ooooh, disconnecting the battery on a modern car, especially a Euro car, can cause all SORTS of problems.
Do that on a BMW and you're in for a couple hours of re-registering about 150 different control modules.
Assuming that this thing isn't heading in the right direction when it leaves my friends shop, i don't think i have much to lose. It won't recognize anything now and certainly doesn't activate. I had a very weird vision of doing an LS swap and making this into a rallycross car. After I part out all the interior, unwanted mechanicals, etc. Then I got a little better.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Yes.
Gotta do this on all vehicles anyway, so you don't lose a bunch of adaptives, or all of the OBD-II monitors that might not run at all between November and April but they need to pass emissions during that timeframe.
They make dongles that plug into the datalink connector to provide 12v through its powet and ground, so it's no hardship to do.
there was an old BMW hack to take a 9v battery and hook it up to accessory socket , this was to keep the radio etc working when you removed the cars battery ,
Probably not going to work as well now with all the electronics in cars now.
A buddy bought a non running RX8 from a woman for $100. It had to be towed from the dealer since it needed a "new" engine according to them. Tons of lights, nothing working, etc. Turns out all it needed was a new battery. Never take what a dealer says as absolute truth. I doubt very much they spent much time diagnosing the issue. A good indie might be your best bet. I'm sure they plugged up the scanner, couldn't figure it out and called it a day. It indeed sounds electrical to me.
In reply to racerdave600 :
That's my hope. I don't want to rant too much, but the mechanic at Range Rover was making no sense, and when I questioned his logic, (it wouldn't shift automatically, then went into limp mode,then powered down...how is that a blown engine?) he stopped returning my phone calls. They then tried to charge me $200 for looking at it...which after a few words they dropped. Really, really, really poor customer service. OK, better now.
FMB42 said:"It was not my greatest moment buying this." Live and learn.
Indeed. Indeed.
Wally (Forum Supporter) said:I have nothing useful to add but good luck, Land Rover Roadside Assistance helped pay for my wedding when I was driving a tow truck.
That is very funny. Even now. Even now.
Hmmmmmmm....this might be entertaining.
That same dealer told a buddy that his Rover needed a new engine after it went in limp mode. He disagreed and took it to an independent. That guy somehow found out the car was waaaaay overdue for an oil change so it shut down. The reason it was so overdue, well LR Annapolis never registered the last oil change....
Annapolis wanted $18,500. Independent was under $200. That was 75k miles and 4 years ago so I'd say it was the solution even though LR Annapolis said "that's not the problem, it needs a new motor" after he went back and told them.
Stampie (FS) said:Maybe it's still too cold outside and the shifter turtled? Wait for it to warm up some and see if it'll pop out?
"The dealer knows about shrinkage...right Jerry?...tell me the dealer knows about shrinkage"
In reply to Steve_Jones :
That's amazing. I have a kindred spirit out there.
In reply to Steve_Jones :
Really...what are the chances? This really is incredible.
Modern CANBUS systems aren't as scary as they might seem. I've got an EUCD Volvo, so I'm familiar with their quirks. Typically, if you have a specific issue with the car, the various control modules and sensors will pinpoint the affected system pretty well. You'll get one, two, maybe three error codes. If you get hit with a barrage of error codes with completely unrelated systems, you know you have a voltage problem somewhere. It can be a weak/dying battery, maybe the alternator isn't up to snuff, or you've got a bad connection somewhere.
Step one for me would be to hook up another battery just to see if the behavior changes. If the car calms down and you can clear all the codes, you've figured out part of the problem. If it's still acting funny, there's a fault somewhere in the CANBUS power network.
In reply to 11110000 :
That is helpful. Most likely I will have this thing at my shop by Friday. I will stop stamping my feet (maybe ) and dig in. I was going to disconnect the battery for a day and see if things snapped back. Opinions?
jh36 said:
Hmmmmmmm....this might be entertaining.
In reply to jh36 :
Disconnecting the battery can't hurt anything at this point. Some things will reset, but most of the codes will still be stored. If you have a voltmeter you can check the battery.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:WonkoTheSane (FS) said:Pete. (l33t FS) said:Steve_Jones said:Might sound dumb, but I'd disconnect the battery for 24 hours. See what resets.
Ooooh, disconnecting the battery on a modern car, especially a Euro car, can cause all SORTS of problems.
Do that on a BMW and you're in for a couple hours of re-registering about 150 different control modules.
Wait, a modern BMW has no way to bootstrap itself and figure out what modules are physically in the car on the CAN? That's hilarious!
It's hilarious until someone takes their Z4 to Autozone for a new battery and now nothing works and they are confused why it is going to be so expensive to make everything work again when nothing's "broken".
Meanwhile at GM, we get some weird electronic issue and call TAC and they tell us to do a "global reset" and ship it. Which is disconnect the battery, hold the cables together for 30 seconds, reinstall the cables.
In reply to NickD :
Yep. Had a customer with a Terrain that would occasionally lock out radio controls and a bunch of other issues. (I just remember the radio because it invariably would lock out on the most obnoxious station, with the volume cranked, and you couldn't turn it off)
The dealer "fix" was to disconnect the battery every time it happened. Which of course fixes nothing, and keeps you from passing emissions if you have to disconnect the battery all the time so the battery doesn't die because the radio and HVAC and stuff won't shut off.
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