Rebuild the L-48 from my Vette or LT1 from 95/6 Caprice 9C1

Knurled wrote:

Opti wrote: Huh? How are similar quality gaskets any more for an LT1 than a Gen 1 SBC. Its literally the same engine.

I think the only gaskets that interchanges with SBC are the oil pan and the oil seal retainer. We shan't speak of how hideously expensive a timing set is.

You can get a stock replacement timing set for 50 bucks or you can use an SBC timing set if you want. On a 96 & 97 (IIRC) you just delete the crank position sensor. I did it when I did my cam and paid like 90 for an SBC cloyes double roller. Most people on a budget either reuse the stock one or go buy a stock replacement.

The only expensive timing set ive seen for an lt1 is GM's extreme duty lt4 double roller, its like 250, not really any good reason to run it though.

If you can find a stock rering/rebuild kit without headgaskets and then get the GM Iron head gaskets, then some cam bearing and you'd be good. I would do cam bearings, a lot of rebuild kits dont come with them but the front cam bearing on a LT1 generally wears faster because of the cam driven waterpump.

Opti wrote: You can get a stock replacement timing set for 50 bucks or you can use an SBC timing set if you want.

Could not find one for under $150.

On a 96 & 97 (IIRC) you just delete the crank position sensor. I did it when I did my cam and paid like 90 for an SBC cloyes double roller.

What drives the water pump then, and if you delete the crank sensor how does the computer work?

So to end the argument I'm gonna rebuild the L48 with better heads and cam. Thinking TBI to keep stock looking as others have said.

Use the lt1 cam, l98 heads. Make a really fun combo with a happy tbi

Knurled wrote:

Opti wrote: You can get a stock replacement timing set for 50 bucks or you can use an SBC timing set if you want.

Could not find one for under $150.

On a 96 & 97 (IIRC) you just delete the crank position sensor. I did it when I did my cam and paid like 90 for an SBC cloyes double roller.

What drives the water pump then, and if you delete the crank sensor how does the computer work?

You have to delete the cam drive for the wp and switch to a EWP. I did because it makes replacement way easier since you only replace the front motor not the whole housing, and its supposed to help with valvetrain stability.

The computer does fine running off the cam sensor (opti) and no input from crank sensor. Early Lt1s didnt come with a crank sensor.

LT1 cam would require roller lifters.

Doh! Forgot its a two piece rear main block.

So, edit previous comment to cam with lt1 specs.

In reply to Dusterbd13:

I don't know what it takes to get roller lifters into a block of that age. It might be worth it to get a set of retrofit rollers in there, actually, since you could then run any modern motor oil you'd want and not worry about wiping out a lobe.

Doing a roller retrofit properly can easily run upwards of 800 bucks.

Need a correct dist gear, lifters, cam, fuel pump push rod, cam thrust button. Probably be cheaper to start with an 87 and up block already set up for a roller.

But you have less friction, more aggressive lobes, easier break in, and much better oil selection.

L-48 Vette... ??

maga-squirt and welding injector bungs on a manifold is expensive???

as far as the engine itself is concerned... its a SBC... how expensive does it get???

One point of thought... WHERE does the 4l60e shift? Before I just threw parts @ the SBC... I'd optimize the L48 to the gearing of the 4l60e

oldeskewltoy wrote: L-48 Vette... ?? maga-squirt and welding injector bungs on a manifold is expensive??? as far as the engine itself is concerned... its a SBC... how expensive does it get??? One point of thought... WHERE does the 4l60e shift? Before I just threw parts @ the SBC... I'd optimize the L48 to the gearing of the 4l60e

Hadn't considered how the trans would affect performance. Heck, not even sure what's in the diff for that matter.