Ok, I'm stumped. I can't get the RX to start. If I do the oil and ether in the carb, it turns over right away and runs for 5 to 15 seconds then quits. There is gas in the float, the sight glass is at half. I assume that means the pump is getting fuel to the carb. When I work the throttle linkage, I can see gas squirting into the carb.
I'm not sure what is going on here. Any thoughts?
Maybe a vacuum leak? I had issues with that in the past,and it turned out I had a massive vacuum leak on the manifold. The engine would rev up to 4-5k rpm,but would idle,and therefore would run unless I was using the accelerator pedal.
Also how is the compression? Could be a compression problem from some stuck apex seals.
There is a one way valve in the fuel line before the carb, undo the line there and pump fuel into a container to verify flow.
Do you have a good spark, check the plugs.
Are the ignitors in working condition.
Do you still have the rats nest?
holley intake manifold + squarebore/tbi adapter plate + GMtbi off of an old 305 + megasquirt
Over/under choke? Change the plugs. My rotarys don't like to start on old plugs.
My 83 with no choke (removed) you have to pump the throttle 10-15 times to get it to fire. If you don't keep pumping it will die in 3-5 seconds. Then you have to pump the throttle 10-15 time again to get it to fire. They take A LOT of gas to keep them running when cold. Anything below 35 degrees I don't even try.
Are you using full choke to start it? Only way mine would start with standard carb
I vote flooded. Try this: straight windshield washer fluid in a spray bottle set on 'stream'. No that is not a misprint; washer fluid. The blue stuff. Start it as you've done already, then spray the washer fluid directly into the carb while keeping it running with your hand on the throttle linkage. The methanol in the washer fluid will keep it running. You have to keep doing this until it warms up then it should run on its own. Then take it out on the road and blow the cobwebs out (that's the fun part). 
Tip: if you start a rotary and don't let it warm up for a few times it will be a right bastard to start. Mazda calls it 'garage mode' because it usually happens with cars that are started, backed out of the garage and shut off, washed, then put back in the garage. Two or three times and you have a seemingly dead rotary. The way to prevent this is to make sure the engine gets all the way to operating temperature each time you run the engine.
Jensenman is right I have pulled the plugs on a few garage bound rotaries, turn the engine over and water from condensation flies everywhere, replace the plugs and she's good to go.
However you problem does not sound like this, once started the flooding shouldn't be a factor.
It sounds like a fuel or spark problem, usual fuel suspects are the inline fuel filter, dirty tank, bad pump or bad pump wires (which fray where they go through the floor into the cabin under the storage bins)
Electrical are the ignitors, plugs, bad ground, etc.
Other options are vacuum leaks, multiple.
You'll need to log in to post.
