I'm talking the Z3 kind. What's good? What's bad? I'm looking for anything and everything about these cars. Are certain years better than others? I know virtually nothing about them, so have at it!
I'm talking the Z3 kind. What's good? What's bad? I'm looking for anything and everything about these cars. Are certain years better than others? I know virtually nothing about them, so have at it!
I have a neighbor who owns one. All I know for sure is that there is a lot more rubber under the fenders than my miata.
From what I understand, the 4 cylinders are slower than the comparable year Miata, the 6 cylinders faster.
There were slightly more than 800 made with the 333HP S54 engine from the E46 M3.
You berkeleying want one. I know I do.
E36 front suspension and E30 rear suspension. TON O RUBBER under the fenders 
The S52B32 is a trusty lump (usual M5x/S5x E36 maintenance applies - coolant system should be number 1) @ 240hp and 236tq with turbine smooth power from idle to redline.
The Coupes have the love it or hate it looks, but a chassis to die for (ie stiffer).
Z3 Info - Read and be informed on getting the virus
In reply to Giant Purple Snorklewacker:
They were rated at 315hp due to the exhaust configuration. However, driving em back to back, I didn't notice any lack in power. It still went like stink. The S54 cars carry a premium (much like the coupes).
If its a 4 cyl then its not a "M" Roadster. Its a regular Z3.
Basically the big difference is S52 vs S54. The S52 is basically the E36M3 engine and the S54 is the E46M3 engine. About a 90hp difference. The S54's were only made in 01-02 and command a signifigant price premium over the more common S52's.
If it were me, I'd go for the coupe version. Way too sexy for words.
Why not just keep your TVR?
My father has a 2001 3.0l model...1 step under the M, yet retains a few "M" items. LOTS of torque for a little car, but it is quite heavy and 225hp makes 1st gear about useless. 2nd puts the car at 90+ mph
Do the subframes rip out on these?
The subframe issue is hit or miss and it doesn't seem to matter how the car was driven. There's multiple fixes and preventative measures around but it's not anywhere near as big a deal as people make it on the internet.
An acquaintance had a supercharged S52 coupe track toy. It made a bunch of power and was driven hard. He never had any issues with it (or at least he never brought any up the few times I talked to him about buying the car) aside from an unfortunate run in with a 944 at mid ohio.
The S54 cars require a bit more regular maintenance, but it's just valve adjustments and such.
I have never heard of the subframes ripping out, but I am sure it has happened
In reply to mad_machine:
Well, I googled it. Some people say it isn't a problem even if you track your car. Others say it happens even to gently driven 4-cyl Z3s. So that should clear it up.
Subframes are not an issue on these - they have E30 style trailing arms and beam subframe rather than the E36 5 link setup.
The only real issue you can have with that setup is fatigue at the diff mounts or handling quirkiness from bushing wear - neither ties directly to the unibody and so damage is limited to the subframe itself... easily remedied with a welder or junkyard subframe. I have never actually heard of anyone having any issue other than needing to beef up the swaybar mounts to run a bigger bar.
Grtechguy wrote: My father has a 2001 3.0l model...1 step under the M, yet retains a few "M" items. LOTS of torque for a little car, but it is quite heavy and 225hp makes 1st gear about useless. 2nd puts the car at 90+ mph
90mph in second gear?
Sounds like it needs massive boost with that kind of gearing.
My buddy has a supercharged M Coupe.
It is evil.
93celicaGT2 wrote:Grtechguy wrote: My father has a 2001 3.0l model...1 step under the M, yet retains a few "M" items. LOTS of torque for a little car, but it is quite heavy and 225hp makes 1st gear about useless. 2nd puts the car at 90+ mph90mph in second gear?
It's screaming at that point, but....boost would be fun. They are by no means High-Performance cars. just well handling highway / back roads sport-tourers
93celicaGT2 wrote:Grtechguy wrote: My father has a 2001 3.0l model...1 step under the M, yet retains a few "M" items. LOTS of torque for a little car, but it is quite heavy and 225hp makes 1st gear about useless. 2nd puts the car at 90+ mph90mph in second gear?
It sounds like an Autotragic with that kind of gearing.
In reply to Grtechguy:
"Heavy" is subective, they're 2900-3000lbs which isnt very heavy by modern standards.
Plugging the numbers into a gearing calculator and 2nd gear on a 5 speed is good for 65mph @ 6500rpm.
There's a lot of folklore about both VANOS failures and subframe failures. The occurance seems to be random.
I'll tell you what though, even if BOTH failed on my E46 M3, it would still be the best car I ever owned.
So, yes, buy it. Maybe look at the subframe mounts first.
Lots of good information here - Thanks! What I'm trying to do is make some changes in my automotive interests. I used to look at cars mostly as tools for driving. I was more focused on autocrossing, track events, and for a brief period, racing. Then I built a shop and got much more into working on them and got away from actually enjoying them.
For many reasons, I'm not going to be doing a lot of major work on cars in the future, and I currently have way too many projects.
I haven't been out on a track for several years and want to get back to it. So I'm considering selling most of my hobby vehicles and buying something I can drive on the street, autocross, track, and something that might have some collector potential in the future. An active club is also a plus. The M Roadster seems to fit the bill pretty well. So am I on the right track, or should I be looking elsewhere???
bravenrace wrote: Lots of good information here - Thanks! What I'm trying to do is make some changes in my automotive interests. I used to look at cars mostly as tools for driving. I was more focused on autocrossing, track events, and for a brief period, racing. Then I built a shop and got much more into working on them and got away from actually enjoying them. For many reasons, I'm not going to be doing a lot of major work on cars in the future, and I currently have way too many projects. I haven't been out on a track for several years and want to get back to it. So I'm considering selling most of my hobby vehicles and buying something I can drive on the street, autocross, track, and something that might have some collector potential in the future. An active club is also a plus. The M Roadster seems to fit the bill pretty well. So am I on the right track, or should I be looking elsewhere???
cough Miata cough cough 
I would think that an M Roadster would be the perfect car for the Dragon....but I would look into whatever safety equipment is needed for track duty.
bravenrace wrote: Lots of good information here - Thanks! What I'm trying to do is make some changes in my automotive interests. I used to look at cars mostly as tools for driving. I was more focused on autocrossing, track events, and for a brief period, racing. Then I built a shop and got much more into working on them and got away from actually enjoying them. For many reasons, I'm not going to be doing a lot of major work on cars in the future, and I currently have way too many projects. I haven't been out on a track for several years and want to get back to it. So I'm considering selling most of my hobby vehicles and buying something I can drive on the street, autocross, track, and something that might have some collector potential in the future. An active club is also a plus. The M Roadster seems to fit the bill pretty well. So am I on the right track, or should I be looking elsewhere???
The roadster poses an issue for going to the track in that a lot of clubs won't allow it even with a rollbar so it limits your options. Some clubs still do but make you wear a hardtop + rollbar.
For track work a proper tin top is always the safe answer (I mean safe in accepted everywhere, not safe like sliding on the roof... but probably that too) if you don't already own a roadster.
+1 for the M roadster. As always with a BMW take care of the cooling and you will be fine.
Does anyone know what the requirements or restrictions are to run on the track at a BMWCCA school or track event? I don't mind getting a roll bar and/or hard top, but what do hard tops cost and are they commonly available?
bravenrace wrote: Does anyone know what the requirements or restrictions are to run on the track at a BMWCCA school or track event? I don't mind getting a roll bar and/or hard top, but what do hard tops cost and are they commonly available?
BMWCCA National rules are restrictive (broomstick from roll bar to front shock towers, etc..), but open to interpretation by the local chapter. Best bet is to check with your local chapter. In general hard top doesn't matter, they treat all verts as open vehicles. The topic is a constant subject of debate and rules interpretations vary widely from Chapter to Chapter (White Mountain Chapter threw in the towel and just mandated cages for all open tops). So better yet, check with a BOARD MEMBER of your local chapter.
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