I bought a non running 62 volvo pv544.I would like to swap the engine for one with 200+ horsepower.I plan to run a manual trans.I don't want to butcher the engine compartment.Any ideas for a cost effective swap appreciated.
I bought a non running 62 volvo pv544.I would like to swap the engine for one with 200+ horsepower.I plan to run a manual trans.I don't want to butcher the engine compartment.Any ideas for a cost effective swap appreciated.
Stampie wrote: B230 +T
That might be possible if it is stood upright but would still need cutting of the engine bay.
I remember seeing one of these with a GM 60-degree V6. The LA1 3400 makes around 185hp, which gets you in the neighborhood of 200hp. No clue what was entailed with putting it in there though.
Stampie wrote: Damn. Is it really that tight?
From what I remember when I was researching swaps when I had one it is a combination of a very narrow engine bay and small transmission tunnel.
2L Kia Sportage twin cam engine, and a supercharger. Not sure how the Sportage transmission ratios would work out though.
Super narrow engine bay. I'd put in a 2.3 Duratech in RWD configuration. 175 hp stock - easily built to 200 HP. Ranger 5 speed bolts right in. Probably save about 100 lbs. on the nose.
I had one of those cars and really loved it, except that it's undergeared, and one has to keep the SU carbs happy. There are swap packages to put a Toyota 5-speed onto the motor, but they're pricey.
hobiercr wrote: 200 hp + 6spd and it comes with a warranty
Wow, those engines aren't even on my radar, but that's a formidable deal! What's the scoop on engine management?
In reply to Kreb:
They come with their own CPU and harness. FI doesn't require a return line so technically it should be a pretty easy swap. Not sure if the intake will fit with a narrow Volvo engine bay but there is a JDM importer in Orlando that has these for right around $1K w/6 spd. I really want to grab one to shove in my $300 Alfa spider or my '67 Amazon wagon.
Engine bay is narrow, and the trans tunnel is tiny. S2000 would be the answer with metal work. I bet Miata guts would fit without too much fabrication, and our friend Keith can produce as much power as you might want.
I bet a Toad doesn't weigh much more than a Miata anyway.
Edit: You might want to track down a later front crossmember with some disc brakes, too.
Streetwiseguy Can you tell me what fabrication is needed to use the later crossmember and if it needs welded in instead of bolted in.I would like to upgrade to balljoint spindles and disc brakes.Could you tell me what parts donor I will need and what's required to install it.
Straight bolt in from a newer 544 or Amazon. Probably a bit of fabrication would allow a 140 to bolt in, and get a much better selection of brake pads. Downside to 140, different bolt pattern.
In reply to Streetwiseguy:
Does the amazon use ball joints instead of king pins?I've googled it but am getting varying answers.Thanks for the help.
I think the late ones were ball joints...but I'm not betting the farm. I can picture a bolt-in ball joint that wasn't 140, so...Nope, I'm thinking of 1800. That would be another potential donor, too.
Ok. I just went to VP autoparts, (which is a company you want to know about if you are working on an old Volvo, trust me.) and the Amazon and 1800 shared suspension parts from 66 model year on, and they were ball joint style. Find the front suspension from an 1800E or ES, and they have the 140 brake pads and calipers, or close enough.
In reply to Streetwiseguy:
Thanks for the front end info.I found a place that has a small volvo parts car section.The owner suggested I use a volvo 230 engine with megasquirt.I'll check there for 1800E or ES parts.Thanks for the VP autoparts advice.
In reply to Streetwiseguy :
No 544 had ball joints. The front end is king pins and threaded trunions like a Studebaker. With lots of lubricator fittings. The only rubber is inner lowers. Pretty poor geometry too, I ran one for 17 years till I got tired of (specifically) the front end!
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