Welder: Lincoln 140HD or Hobart Handler 140 or...

Well, I definitely want gas. Thankfully, I don't have to rewire: I have a 60 amp service to the garage, and it's already wired for 220. While 220V is an option, I haven't seen any compelling reason to step up from a (good) 120V unit for what I do. I really will be limited to bodywork, exhaust and maybe motor mount type stuff. I wouldn't turn down a cheap (good) 220V unit, but they're harder to find in this price range.

BigD wrote: Another vote for the Eastwood. I haven't got mine yet but will be soon. It's 300 bucks, has metal wire feed, infinitely adjustable speed/heat. I know that you're from the GTA as well so I'll warn you with what I was told, that the Lincolns that Canadian Tire and such sell, are not quality units. They have a pro and consumer line. Ironically, if you go on Lincoln's site, they're priced exactly the same. A word of caution if you hope to just use the welder without doing any wiring changes. While they're 110v, they require a 20 amp circuit. Odds are that your garage circuit is already overloaded and is not 20 amp, so you'll have to wire a new outlet anyway. So if that's holding you back from a 220, then it's really a wash... you have to rewire anyway, the 220 will cost you more upfront but you'll have more flexibility with material thickness.

njansenv wrote: Well, I definitely want gas. Thankfully, I don't have to rewire: I have a 60 amp service to the garage, and it's already wired for 220. While 220V is an option, I haven't seen any compelling reason to step up from a (good) 120V unit for what I do. I really will be limited to bodywork, exhaust and maybe motor mount type stuff. I wouldn't turn down a cheap (good) 220V unit, but they're harder to find in this price range.

I hear ya... I personally can't imagine what I would need the 220 for. The thickest I plan to weld is .120 dom tubing but... never say never. I guess in the off chance that you need to weld 5/16", you can borrow a 220 for a day...

Get the Eastwood 135. If you mention GRM when you call, you'll get it for 300 bucks (saw that in the last issue).

What sold me on the 220 was not only that it has a higher range up top, but a bunch of pro welders convinced me that it's also more stable on thin stuff. $.02, FWIW, etc.

FYI - $549 for the Handler 187 ($100 less than I paid. ): http://www.tractorsupply.com/hobart-handler-reg-187-mig-welder-3807126

Thread where I did my research - http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=962326

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=41965

How is Eastwood for replacement parts? (I must've missed the "mention GRM and get it for $300" in the last mag!)

njansenv wrote: How is Eastwood for replacement parts? (I must've missed the "mention GRM and get it for $300" in the last mag!)

Sorry I meant 2nd to last, the Porsche one. They had a welding feature, and in the stuff we like section, they talk about the new Eastwood 135 they picked up, and that Eastwood will sell it to you for 300 if you mention GRM.

As a side note, my Lincoln 125 was bought used, but it's the bottom end offering at Lowe's. If I were buying new, I'd avoid the plastic guts too, but it hasn't caused me any problems (yet.) I've been very happy with it so far, but I only weld a couple times a month. the paperwork lists it as upgradable to gas mig and a spool gun for Aluminum.

Of course, now that I've said that, whatever plastic bits there are will probably shoot right out of the motherberkeleyer next time I use it.....

njansenv wrote: How is Eastwood for replacement parts? (I must've missed the "mention GRM and get it for $300" in the last mag!)

I've "heard" they stock parts.

I went with 110 because I was also having a 220 line put in for an air compressor and didn't know if I had enough juice to add a second 220. I did have a dedicated 110 added and its never tripped.

njansenv wrote: What do you mean "real" Lincoln 140? (forgive the ignorance)

"real" = metal feed and gears (i.e. the Lincoln Power-MIG line that cannot be purchased at Lowe's or Home Depot.)

BigD wrote:

njansenv wrote: While 220V is an option, I haven't seen any compelling reason to step up from a (good) 120V unit for what I do.

I hear ya... I personally can't imagine what I would need the 220 for.

I said that before getting mine, and a few months later was thankful for the 220 as I was welding 1/4" plate.....cameras, computers, fish tanks and welders....if you buy more than you think you will need, you'll always end up using the extra capacity.

It's all about the watt's! Voltage x Current = Watts. For the same output a 220 will draw less current. I rarely weld anything over .154 dom tube and the .154 i do weld is not 100/5 penetrating anyway but i like having the power if needed even if it is the 4 heat setting type. At my side job they have a big Lincoln with a computer in it on the gun theres a slide switch it will change what ever setting you left the cusser on when you set up the machine. Voltage, current, wire speed etc. It's fun to use the 1st few times but then you hit it by accident and it messes with ya. Like most thing once you get used to it you adjust yourself to the machine.

JoeyM wrote: I said that before getting mine, and a few months later was thankful for the 220 as I was welding 1/4" plate.....cameras, computers, fish tanks and welders....if you buy more than you think you will need, you'll always end up using the extra capacity.

That's the reason I don't have one yet... I can't convince myself to buy the 110 because I KNOW you're right.

spitfirebill wrote: I went with 110 because I was also having a 220 line put in for an air compressor and didn't know if I had enough juice to add a second 220. I did have a dedicated 110 added and its never tripped.

Couldn't you put both on the same circuit? I've got two 220v circuits in my garage, but if I only had one, I would just make sure to shut off the air compressor when welding. Or just have the air compressor on a plug, unplug it to plug in the welder. You're not likely to need both operating at the exact same time. Switching back and forth might be a pain. So buy the Miller 211 so nicely suggested earlier in the thread - if you need to use both, run the welder off 115v temporarily!

I'm just about convinced that the Eastwood is the way to go: shipped for $450 to my door for a new unit with variable voltage control sounds like win-win. Per's recommendation didn't hurt.

Once you have the ability to weld stuff, you will find stuff to weld. Eventually, it wont be 20 gauge sheet metal. It will be a friends trailer or a piece of furniture that needs repair.

Not that the 110 wont do a heck of a lot, but the 220 will do it all.

Also, I put no stock in those who claim a 110 is better for sheet metal because it will offer more suitable power levels for the thin metal. The 220 volt machines will crank down to the same levels.

I personally say get a 110v MIG if you're on a budget, and a lincoln buzzbox for the thick stuff and learn to freakin stick weld! Stick welding is so versatile, and the only stuff it's not good on is stuff that a 110v MIG is perfect for.

dculberson wrote: Couldn't you put both on the same circuit? I've got two 220v circuits in my garage, but if I only had one, I would just make sure to shut off the air compressor when welding. Or just have the air compressor on a plug, unplug it to plug in the welder. You're not likely to need both operating at the exact same time. Switching back and forth might be a pain.

I coulda done that, but I'm lazy.

Since then we have done away with our electric water heater and have plenty of power. If buying today I would go with a 220 unit.

I have a Lincoln 110V MIG with the "infinite" voltage - and in hindsight the cheaper "tap" welder would've been good enough - just speed up / slow down the motion of your hand if you want to control the amount of heat you put into material.

I've been looking at the 220V MIGs, mostly for roll cage tubing - we put together a cage last year with a 110V welder (0.120" thickness tubing IIRC) and it was barely enough wleder to handle it.

For the bigger stuff, I also have a 220V buzz box. The recent GRM article on welding backs up what I've heard from a local trailer manufacturer - MIG can make materials brittle, and joints on trailers are prone to cracking - for this reason this guy uses a stick welder.

I'd also recommend a community college class in welding to go with the purchase - it helped me a lot.

Also your local technical high school might have welding classes. I took a class from one and it was really helpful.

My first welder was a Lincoln SP 100 with the plastic guts. Turned out that dropping it off a table is a very bad idea. Stuck the drive mechanism back together with JB weld- good as new for another two years. I don't know squat about Eastwood, but get friendly with a local welding supply place. Generally, they are extremely helpful and love to talk. They also take in trade-ins that may be helpful. +9 on tech schools, especially for night classes. Usually very interesting people there, in my experiences.

dean1484 wrote: Is it a 120 or 208 volt unit? I got a Lincoln 135 (120 volt) unit used for about 300 that had been used once and it has been one of the best purchases I ever made.

Pro-Mig 135 by any chance? One has turned up locally and I'd need a welder to fix a bunch of holes in my CJ7...

If you have the power, a 220 machine is the way to go.

I ran production on 18ga sheet metal parts with a Miller 350P with .035 wire..the big machines are as good or better at the small stuff.

(in fact, with tig for example, you have to pay extra for the ability to go down to single digit amps)

Eastwood doesn't make welders, they rebadge them.

It may be a fine welder out of the box, but in 10 years they may be rebadging another chinese or italian welder, and you will probably be sol on parts or service.

I can still get parts for my big old lincoln or millermatic 200, and they're probably pushing 20 years old.

-James