Why won't my lights turn off?

I shut my car off, 2014 Buick Verano 30 minutes ago and my high beams are still on. They usually shut off in a couple minutes but the haven't yet.

Is the stalk pushed forward?

Maybe the twisty headlight switch at the end of the turn signal stalk that turns off the auto lamp and forces the headlights on is twisted to "on".

In reply to snailmont5oh:

The BCM should still kill the headlights to save the battery.

This is WHY everything is controlled by modules now.

Switch or high beam relay. Or, on a 2014, the BCM took a dump. Have you tried turning everything on, and clicking high-low-high a couple of times?

Unhook the battery for a few minutes?

Actually, opening and closing the door may work, too. When you turn the key (or whatever facsimile so equipped) off, the BCM will keep accessory power alive until you open the door. So if you turn the key off after you get out, the accessories stay alive... Either way, opening and closing the door should reset the timer. Maybe. I think. Either way it's worth a shot.

When was the last time the car was at the dealer? There may be a bug in the BCM that is fixed by the latest flash.

Nothing has changed. I disconnected the battery for the night so it will start in the morning and will try to deal with it tomorrow night. It was at the dealer two weeks ago for something to be programmed after an accident so I will call the body shop in the morning to see if they have any ideas.

Before you hook the battery up walk counter clockwise around the car 7 times kicking each tire 3 times. Start at drivers side front. Then thump the fuse/relay box 5 times with a stainless steel butter knife.

Remember when headlights didn't need computers to function? How did we manage to turn the switch on and off all by ourselves before automatic lamps?

TRoglodyte wrote: Before you hook the battery up walk counter clockwise around the car 7 times kicking each tire 3 times. Start at drivers side front. Then thump the fuse/relay box 5 times with a stainless steel butter knife.

Make sure to spin twice clockwise every 3/4 lap.

In reply to Gearheadotaku:

If it wasn't on a module, you couldn't (cheaply) have features like flashing the lights when you lock the door with the remote key fob (a device that is considered mandatory, nowadays), or battery-saving tech so you CAN'T leave the lights on overnight like what used to happen, or sensing when a bulb is burned out and notifying the driver on the dash, and turning on one of the driving lights to compensate (not ideal but better than nothin')...

Plus it allows the cars to have much simpler wiring. The BCM controls the lights, maybe doesn't even do the heavy lifting (heavy gauge wiring) but just sends data by CAN to a separate power module underhood, all of the switchgear can use 22-26 gauge wire since it holds no current, actual switches last a lot longer since the contacts don't pass much current. If you treat the switch as a set of resistors rather than discrete contacts, you can cut the forest of wires down to only two or three, the BCM doesn't need to see four separate inputs if it sends a five volt reference out and there are four distinct resistances for four different functions, so only two wires are necessary...

I hooked the battery up this morning and everything worked fine. Can I be so lucky as it needed to reboot?

In reply to Wall-e:

You'll find out tonight.

Wall-e wrote: I hooked the battery up this morning and everything worked fine. Can I be so lucky as it needed to reboot?

If GM is using Windows as their background OS, yes.

Wall-e wrote: I hooked the battery up this morning and everything worked fine. Can I be so lucky as it needed to reboot?

Wonder if that works for valve jobs .....