My 91 ranger was hard going into 1st too, i bet its the slave cylinder. On my year it means you have to drop the transmission, might as well put a new clutch in too at that point.
I am not a fan of the SOHC 4.0 my mother had a 97 explorer with it and i have a 00 explorer with the OHV. Mine always seemed to have more power and got way better gas mileage (18mpg overall for her 23mpg for me). The rear timing chain requires you to pull the engine too, and there is 3 total.
Overall the engine has very little torque so you end up revving it higher (max torque is 2200 rpm in the OHV, 3000 in sohc) to get it to do anything, giving worse mpg. For the record my 91 ranger supercab manual tranny 4.0 OHV gets just under 24mpg all highway miles and 19.7 mpg mostly city, neither driven super carefully and usually loaded with some tools
RevRico said:
13.2 mpg. I should have just bought a full-size.
I'm currently getting 20 out of a 99 f150 fx4 w 4.6 and manual transmission but I've done some work to it...
In reply to Saturnguy :
My automatic Vic with the 4.6 averaged 25 highway, better even than my miata.
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Just got home from the trucks first rally cross. I ran 2 laps.
I need new shocks on all 4 corners. Both front wheel bearings. And tires. More than anything I need better tires. And a tune up. I had to downshift to third to maintain 60 going up to the 2600ft summit on the way, and I haven't had to do that since I took my brg to Vegas and passed 4500ft elevation.
20 seconds off pace. The big time killer for me was the S bend transition from dirt to asphalt. I think the only way I can really do that well is to lower the truck, and that's not happening. Very understeery which turned to snap oversteer.
I'm going to say the driver is responsible for 8 of those 20 seconds, tires and suspension for the other 8, and the last 4 because I'm competing against cars. But I wasn't trying to be competitive today, just figure out what else needs fixed than what I already planned on fixing.
Just ordered in hubs and shocks, should solve my wheel bearing issues and replacing the 4 blown shocks should help the ride. Should also be able to get it all installed in time for the next rally cross and 4 wheeling trip.
I went with KYB Gas A Justs front and rear, I hope this wasn't a bad idea.
15 mpg on this tank, that included about half highway driving. I need to get on a tune up, that should help a bit more.
I've also started coming to the conclusion that I'm not the fabricator I think I am, and easy jobs on paper don't translate into execution that well. So I'm probably going to start begging someone going to the challenge to bring a bed back from florida for me. I already have someone in florida who can find one and get it to the challenge.
IF that works out, then I just spray bedliner all over the inside and out and slap it on my truck. Much easier than cutting and stitching together a bed with patch panels.
After months of collecting parts and avoiding rain, I finally began some work today. Was only going to do a corner but wound up doing the whole front. New hubs, pads, socks, and rotors.
Obligatory comparison shot.
Meanwhile, the exhaust, rear shocks, and wheel cylinders are sitting for another day.
Disturbingly easy. The first side too some hammer work to get the wheel and rotor off, little light snaking for the hub. The passenger side was like butter, just slid smooth. I've never had a vehicle so easy in my 15 years of driving in PA.
The goal is to get everything done before our last rally cross on the 9th.
RevRico said:
I feel like the clutch releases at a different point depending on the gear. Maybe in still not used to the pedal feel, but it's strange. Like if i let the pedal halfway up going into second and it drives fine, just feels like the pedal is kicking back or staying down further. I'm not really sure how to describe it.
Clutch master cylinders are notorious on these for getting bled correctly. I would start there before buying parts. That being said, it's a process to do correctly without throwing money at it. Many yootoob videos on the procedure - which involves removing it and bleeding it on the bench.
Interesting. Since I changed the battery, most everything has been fine. But I'm sitting here in my driveway, in neutral with the brake on, and my Speedo is bouncing between 15 and 30..
In reply to RevRico :
Truck is clearly impatient, it wants to GO somewhere!
This thing is really starting to piss me off.
Finally got the brake lines that were broken taken care of, 2 month old battery, charged it up, ran it for an hour yesterday idling and driving around town. It sat 14 hours and it's dead again.
I replaced the battery in January or February once, I just a week ago cut off a bunch of corrosion from the wires and cleaned up my new terminals, and I still can't let it go overnight?
Where should I even start looking for an electricity drain?
The only thing I can think of is it not registering the door being shut, but with no lights or dinger, I don't see how that could do it. Aftermarket stereo wired up like every single other one I've ever installed so it's not the stock known to pull current one. All the grounds I can find are in good shape.
Guess I'm going to have to jump it and go replace this battery, which at least is covered under warranty, but I'm sick of not being able to trust my truck if I take it somewhere.
I have acquired a parts donor. The frame is shot, the batter is dead, the body looks like Swiss cheese. And it has NO brakes.
But it has a good rear door that I don't, good door latches that I don't, stock headlights and tail lights not full of water, and a 110k mile old 3.0 automatic with 4x4, and enough bed floor I should be able to fix mine with. I paid $400 which included having it dropped off at my house.
Current plan is swap everything I want onto my truck, then see where the frame is busted at.
Option 1 is part it out on eBay and Craigslist and scrap the rest.
Option 2 I is take everything I want them scrap it.
Option 3 is take everything I want, cut the frame at the break and move the rear axle up but leave it disconnected, and beat the E36 M3 out of it in FWD mode. I don't think I have the skills to do that, but I might try anyway. With enough weld anything is possible.
It really didn't want to crawl up the driveway, but it made it into the carport.
