I know they're Chineseum copies of Fox remote reservoir dampers. The oil and nitrogen fills from the factory are wonky. There is a guy online rebuilding them for around $100. Any thoughts or experience? For less than $130, rebuilt, it's got to be light years ahead of the 50 year old shocks I'm currently running on the Murdercycle.
A pair came with my cx500 basket case. They look like real shocks and I'm going to use them, but it's going to be a bar hopper, so I'm not too worried about how they "perform". If it's any consolation, the RFY label is just a sticker.
I have used them on 2 different bikes that I have built.
They are not bad. Would use them again.
I'm almost certain I saw 44Dwarf post about them on dotheton.com about 5 years ago. Good to see other have tried them.
The springs are generally way heavy, yes the Shrader valves suck on them but the biggest problem they have is the one thing the factory didn't do, They left out the bleed screws so you can't get 100% of the air out. They copied the Ohlins design but never spot faced and drilled for the screws. Add the bleed holes nd screws change the oil to a real shock oil and the right rate they work great. Will they last 20+ years NO. but for $99 they are a good buy.
I built several set swapping the spring from different models.
I detailed my changes on CafeRacer site but they upgraded softwear a while back and i can't log in now...
but google found it. 44dwarfs rfy shock post
Thanks a million.
How hard would it be for a backyard mechanic like me to drill and tap the bleeders? Is there a place that sells lighter springs if I need them? The CM200T is about 300 lbs wet and I'm around 175.
Springs are the hard part to figure out what you need I got lucky and just bought different models of the RFY shocks when they were on sale BOGO. But i had to build a spring rater to rate them. I belive there is a link to my Facebook Album in the caferacer post. on how i built the tester.
It's easy work and you don't have to take apart the shock, Remove spring, Degas the bladder, File the boss casting on the shock flat. sand flat as you can. Drill while shock is upside down so oil runs out when you get through and flushes the hole. Tap same way then put shock down so more oil flushes the hole. Flip over and refill oil while pumping the shock I drilled a bolt and cut the head off so i could slip a hose over it once i thought i had it full i put a might vac on it and pulled a light vacuum and found there was more air, repeat until there's no air coming oil the hole. Pull light vacuum on the bladder while you top off the fill hole. then plug the hole with a sealing screw (screw with O-ring in the head.
When you say boss casting, do you mean the top with the eyelet that connects the body with the remote reservoir? Any chance you could circle the area in question on a picture? I'm a little confused as to where exactly to drill.
You re-gassed it with nitrogen, correct?
Hear you can see on the real thing a counter sunk allen screw closer to the shock body in this one the closer to the bladder is not drilled. (if they were adjustable that where the needle valve would go) on the RFY its not drilled but there are two bosses are there they copied them well but don't put in the effort in getting them 100% right.
Even out of the box there 95% better then any 20+ OEM shock you find on used bikes.
Here you can see both bosses. Mine had two round bosses theses seem to have an oval lower. Either boss is fine for the bleeder hole. the one by the blader may make more since as you be using a button head screw to seal so clearance could be an issue?
Yes N2 is best but any bottled gas works fine as its dry N2 is cheapest and less expansion with heat but CO2 or mig tri-gas has been used just fine. 50-75psi
Awesome info. I can't thank you enough
Appleseed said:Awesome info. I can't thank you enough
Agreed. Thanks, 44Dwarf!
I think I'm going to modificate mine for science.
The only info I found in old notes was
The Sliver 12inch RFY shocks came with 106LB rate springs.
The black 13.5 RYF shocks have spring rate of 152 lbs per inch
All my RFY's were round Eye type ends no clevis type.
Be aware they are a short stroke for there length so you only get 3 inches of shock movement but depending on the motion ratio of the swing arm that can be just fine.
i have them on my '78 hobbit cafe build. stiff, but work well and look good
I have added a air bleed screw to my RFY shocks, I also race vintage MX with them. below is a link to a video on fixing the RFY shock.
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