Lesley
SuperDork
11/2/10 11:22 p.m.
The last time I did an engine swap, it went from a simple "plop a nice, clean but bigger lump" into a full-blown, take-no-prisoners, max the credit card and melt the pets down for their body fat parts-orgy.
When the motor blew in my Mazda, it was only $400 more for the coveted KLZE over a stock 1.8L. That's reasonable, right? Right?
And of course, a chipped ECU, that just goes without saying.
So, my mechanic suggested that since while we're in there (damn that's a dangerous phrase) a nice flywheel ($450) and a good stage 2+ clutch kit ($200) and a set of headers would really make this thing scream.
I think it might be intervention time, my credit card couldn't survive another relapse...
Don't forget, junkyard turbos aren't too pricey either. I mean, if you are gonna pitch the exhaust manifold anyway, and doing some ECU stuff, then it only makes sense to go with a turbo. Intervention success?
dj
New Reader
11/2/10 11:43 p.m.
Rufledt wrote:
Don't forget, junkyard turbos aren't too pricey either. I mean, if you are gonna pitch the exhaust manifold anyway, and doing some ECU stuff, then it only makes sense to go with a turbo. Intervention success?
I was going to say this is probably the worst place to have that problem looking to be talked out of anything automotive...
dj wrote:
Rufledt wrote:
Don't forget, junkyard turbos aren't too pricey either. I mean, if you are gonna pitch the exhaust manifold anyway, and doing some ECU stuff, then it only makes sense to go with a turbo. Intervention success?
I was going to say this is probably the worst place to have that problem looking to be talked out of anything automotive...
Oh and while your in there getting that turbo, don't forget the intercooler, unless you're going for remote mount, then you can probobly use that header you were talking about and skip the intercooler.
Lesley, what else you gonna spend your money on? You work hard, you pay the bills, your life seems normalish, who deserves this more than you?
Buy, sell, barter your way into more horsepower without maxing the VISA. No harm, no foul.
You know we're here to help, right?
Dan
If you're really worried about price, you may as well just buy the engine wrapped in a donor car and part out the car to recoup the money in the budget.
That way you can get the turbo(s?) that we know you really want.
Always here to help
This sounds perfectly reasonable. Especially the extras. I mean... $400 more for an additional 11hp is a no brainier, right? But with that extra juice you will get the satisfaction of hearing that clutch rattle and chatter like a pack of angry red squirrels at every stop light. You get to zing the revs up like lightning... as long the AC hasn't kicked on and stalled it. That new header will rumble so that even the folks you are chatting with on business calls can tell you have a serious performance machine. You really cannot put a price on that kind of intangible awesomeness.
While you are in there... remove all the sound deadener "to save weight" and lower it down to the point where the roll centers move a few feet in every corner so it feels racier. I know my 160 mile commute is all the better for it :)
Rufledt wrote:
Don't forget, junkyard turbos aren't too pricey either. I mean, if you are gonna pitch the exhaust manifold anyway, and doing some ECU stuff, then it only makes sense to go with a turbo. Intervention success?
I'm not so sure i would turbo a KLZE.
Lesley wrote:
The last time I did an engine swap, it went from a simple "plop a nice, clean but bigger lump" into a full-blown, take-no-prisoners, max the credit card and melt the pets down for their body fat parts-orgy.
When the motor blew in my Mazda, it was only $400 more for the coveted KLZE over a stock 1.8L. That's reasonable, right? Right?
And of course, a chipped ECU, that just goes without saying.
So, my mechanic suggested that since while we're in there (damn that's a dangerous phrase) a nice flywheel ($450) and a good stage 2+ clutch kit ($200) and a set of headers would really make this thing scream.
I think it might be intervention time, my credit card couldn't survive another relapse...
The chipped ECU will probably be a necessity. That and the right VAF.
Intake, headers, exhaust, and a light flywheel completely transform this motor, and it will all be SOOOOOOO worth it. Trust me.
Another "while you're in there...." (i know, you hate the phrase.) I'd take those heads off and at least put in KLDE springs and retainers to prevent the valve drop problem at high RPMs the KLZE has.
Orrrr.... you could call Interprep and get their springs and retainers to give you a little more top end, since the ZE springs aren't QUITE strong enough to prevent valve float at the 8000rpms they're capable of spinning.
But definitely PLEASE at least do the DE springs and retainers. I'd hate for you to have a track day or something ruined because your motor decided to drop a valve. They can be done for REALLY cheap.
Just ignore that phrase,
"
well, while we're at it...."
Hypnosis might help; NOT this group. We are true enabelers.
Lesley
SuperDork
11/3/10 9:44 a.m.
LOL, came here for a friendly toke, now I'm sprawled on the shag rug, black light on, listening to Hendrix.
And we haven't brought out the good stuff yet...
You see I got this car for FREE and....
mndsm
Dork
11/3/10 9:51 a.m.
triumph5 wrote:
And we haven't brought out the good stuff yet...
You see I got this car for FREE and....
Most dangerous phrase ever. It's stuff like this that has me dreaming of autocrossing a 100$ Taurus. Why? Because it seems like a good idea.
mndsm wrote:
triumph5 wrote:
And we haven't brought out the good stuff yet...
You see I got this car for FREE and....
Most dangerous phrase ever. It's stuff like this that has me dreaming of autocrossing a 100$ Taurus. Why? Because it seems like a good idea.
Lesley doesn't want to know what i could tell her to do to that poor car....
Lesley
SuperDork
11/3/10 9:57 a.m.
Got a great deal on a clutchmaster Stage II clutch kit last night, will get those valve springs (thanks 93celicagt2) as dropped valves are a problem depending what heads you have. Engine is shrink-wrapped, will have to check that out.
Best price for a flywheel I've seen so far is RR Racing for $310.
No-way-José on the turbo... I have MR2, Omni GLH and Shelby CSX friends... they spend all their time rebuilding those things. Got so I recognized the smell of pooched turbo, since it happened almost every time we lapped.
Lesley wrote:
Got a great deal on a clutchmaster Stage II clutch kit last night, will get those valve springs (thanks 93celicagt2) as dropped valves are a problem depending what heads you have. Engine is shrink-wrapped, will have to check that out.
Best price for a flywheel I've seen so far is RR Racing for $310.
No-way-José on the turbo... I have MR2, Omni GLH and Shelby CSX friends... they spend all their time rebuilding those things. Got so I recognized the smell of pooched turbo, since it happened almost every time we lapped.
I'd call Interprep and see if they recommend just putting their springs in. I BELIEVE the dropped valve issue just happens because of the float and everything starts banging around. With more seat pressure, i don't think you have to swap the retainers. But on the other hand, i'm still just accumulating parts for mine, and haven't actually worked with a running KLZE yet.
The Interprep springs aren't too horribly expensive. If you can swing them, i wouldn't bother with the DE parts.
Oh, and MAKE SURE you have a real KLZE. Some importers are getting sketchy and sending DEs or wierd bizarre hybrids with straight neck intakes slapped on. (You do know that you can't fit a straight neck in your car, right?)
Lesley
SuperDork
11/3/10 10:20 a.m.
Yeah, mine's a curved neck. I know there are stickies on the forums on how to identify them.
Bought it off ebay, they have really good feedback.
EricM
Dork
11/3/10 10:33 a.m.
With all the new found power, you might as well upgrade the brakes as well. And while you are under the car, freshen up the suspension. Now would be a good time to do that Limited Slip in the rear end as well....
Well, what are you waiting for? Get started.
Lesley wrote:
So, my mechanic suggested that since while we're in there (damn that's a dangerous phrase) a nice flywheel ($450) and a good stage 2+ clutch kit ($200) and a set of headers would really make this thing scream.
the flywheel from the MX3 1.8L V6 is a bolt-on to the KLDE or ZE. it's a good bit lighter than the DE/ZE part, and is about $50 at any parts store, versus the Fidanza that's in the ballpark of $350.
unless you're boosting or spraying, a stage 1 clutch kit should provide enough clamp load and still have decent manners.
Teqnyck
New Reader
11/3/10 12:51 p.m.
I've had two KLZE Mx3s, couple of the baddest cars I've ever owned! The Fidanza flywheel is so worth it, you need one. Don't do a stage one clutch, a Clutchmaster Dual Friction has treated me well, I'd recommend it. Pacesetter headers don't sound as good as short primary headers but they do net a noticeable HP gain, so I'd say do it. What everybody is saying about stiffer valve springs, it's all true. I dropped a valve in my first KLZE, ruined the motor, so the next one I did the DE springs and retainers and no more problems.
Here's the part that's gonna get me in trouble, cause most people think that this is a horrible idea. I took the VRIS completely out of the last two motors I had, I mean flapper/actuator/everything to gut the intake manifold, and it made a huge difference. They say you'll lose a ton of bottom end, I never noticed that, but I did gain a bunch of top end and the ability to spin my motor up to 8k.
EricM wrote:
With all the new found power, you might as well upgrade the brakes as well. And while you are under the car, freshen up the suspension. Now would be a good time to do that Limited Slip in the rear end as well....
Well, what are you waiting for? Get started.
Well now that would just be silly....
Teqnyck wrote:
I've had two KLZE Mx3s, couple of the baddest cars I've ever owned! The Fidanza flywheel is so worth it, you need one. Don't do a stage one clutch, a Clutchmaster Dual Friction has treated me well, I'd recommend it. Pacesetter headers don't sound as good as short primary headers but they do net a noticeable HP gain, so I'd say do it. What everybody is saying about stiffer valve springs, it's all true. I dropped a valve in my first KLZE, ruined the motor, so the next one I did the DE springs and retainers and no more problems.
Here's the part that's gonna get me in trouble, cause most people think that this is a horrible idea. I took the VRIS completely out of the last two motors I had, I mean flapper/actuator/everything to gut the intake manifold, and it made a huge difference. They say you'll lose a ton of bottom end, I never noticed that, but I did gain a bunch of top end and the ability to spin my motor up to 8k.
The reason why you didn't notice it is because a VRIS-less KLZE still makes WAY more low end power than a K8 at pretty much any point.
I wonder if your VRIS points were just screwy from some weird ECU/VAF combo you were using?
I wouldn't personally recommend removing it in an n/a application, but you certainly aren't going to notice a loss in low end power compared to before.