To DIY or not to DIY: Gunsmithing Edition.
So I bought this Ruger 22/45 LITE from a friend not too long ago. This was one of the "special" models that came factory with a Riton Red Dot, but I purchased it without the optic. To start I just got a cheap Truglo Red Dot. (Holosun or better would normally be my choice, but it's a 22, and non-reciprocating.) Unfortunately when I installed said red dot, even though I was using my fancy new FAT wrench, I stripped the threads...
Very shameful, I know, next time I will just use my finger and an allen key for tightening as I trust my finger's torque spec more than the FAT wrench, at least for low torque applications.
So, here's the thing. No aftermarket plates I've found are a direct fit because this factory optic model doesn't have the standard holes threaded. So I think I have boiled it down to 3 options:
1. Attempt to tap the factory plate with one size bigger threads. I'm not 100% sure if this would work since the holes in the optic would also need enlarged which risks weakening it, or breaking it. Additionally, the factory optic plate does not have any locating lugs for the optic, it relies solely on the two mounting screws. I know it's just a 22, but I'm not a big fan of that.
2. Buy an aftermarket optic plate, use one of the factory threaded holes I have, and drill/tap the other to fit. This plate seems like it offers lots of optic footprints, so if I switch out optics later I can.
https://outerimpact.com/product/modular-red-dot-adapter-mra-for-ruger-mark-i-ii-iii-iv-iv-lite-22-45-pistol/
3. Take it to a gunsmith and have them try either option.
I'm leaning towards option 2 right now. So, how bad of an idea is it to try and drill/tap a brand new hole in my gun? The upper is aluminum, so it shouldn't be HARD, but precision is key. Another plus is keeping the optic to the rear, where i would need to drill/tap is clear all the way through, so depth is not a problem.
Please excuse the dirt...