John Welsh said:
In reply to chandler :
As for outside and thoughts of ties into field drainage, since you are in a very agricultural setting, are there any agricultural resources like County Ag Extension or similar that might provide design help to a tax payer like yourself?
That's who we used the first time. All the companies we have spoken to or had out have suggested all the east stuff we've already done. I think I'll contact OSU and see if they have someone at their extension office who would come check it out.
Did the basement have a perforated drain pipe inside the footing or only outside?
I suspect @Antihero is onto something regarding the exterior waterproofing BUT it also seems like cutting a trench about a foot deep inside the wall footing, then adding a rock sock with a perforated pipe that drains into the sump basins would relieve the hydrostatic pressure on the underside of the slab. My gut says this would be more effective than elevating the slab a few inches.
I don't know what was there originally, I was out of town and came home to this
I was working on the road so basically I just had snapshots as they went
mine flooded the past week, $20000 quote for lifetime waterproofing....great
OHSCrifle said:
Did the basement have a perforated drain pipe inside the footing or only outside?
I suspect @Antihero is onto something regarding the exterior waterproofing BUT it also seems like cutting a trench about a foot deep inside the wall footing, then adding a rock sock with a perforated pipe that drains into the sump basins would relieve the hydrostatic pressure on the underside of the slab. My gut says this would be more effective than elevating the slab a few inches.
My parents had the "big ass drain tile interior perimeter drain going to a big ass crock" done probably 25 years ago and their basement went from 2-3" of water during rains to bone dry without even a hint of an issue.
The other thing that this waterproofer did that was pretty slick, albeit maybe a bit ugly, was to run plastic drain tile 6" up the walls on the interior, channeling into the drain tile/washed rock perimeter drain. That way any water that *did* make it thru was directed down instead of allowed to go out onto the floor.
Basically this. Works tip-top. I am not a civil engineer however I would imagine this layout could be scaled within reason to accomodate what you are looking to accomplish.
With continuous gravel under the slab, getting some additional under-slab drain capacity could be as simple as boring holes in the side wall of the existing basins (up near the bottom of slab.. in the gravel layer).
Beware: Drill too low and it'll definitely be muddy and berkeley up your pump.
So, number one has been done:
The farmer who owns this hundred acres tiled it this week; the field to our east had old tile in it but it was collapsed in numerous places. The field to our north which is up the slope had none so I'm hopeful this will make a positive difference. Won't know til fall though.
In reply to chandler :
Where is the drain tile outfall point?
OHSCrifle said:
In reply to chandler :
Where is the drain tile outfall point?
South of my property, you can see that there are two east/west runs at the end of the north south runs behind my house; they connect with the tile in the field to the west and the new tile in the field to the east and the outlet is on the other side of the road that passes my house and is in the river bottom.
From my 10 years in stormwater and wastewater, I can tell you that if you are pumping water out of a place and it is still overflowing, your pump is not large enough. Many towns installed lift stations and pump stations to evacuate water from low-lying areas to keep the roads passable. We always designed for the heaviest rain events, and Mother Nature always said "hold my beer" and rained harder. The only solution was bigger pumps and bigger pipes. Maybe you need an upgrade?
