FWD rear axle for a trailer - why isn't this more common?

About 8 years ago, when I built my utility trailer, I used the rear axle from a Dodge Caravan. After conparing it to commercial trailer axles, I was a no-brainer. It was properly engineered and fabricated, dropped and cheap (100$ for the axle, leaf springs, brakes, tires and wheels). Assuming the GVWR was split equally between both axle, it was also rated at 2800 lbs (5600/2), which is more then enough for a lot of trailers.

But since then, I don't think I've ever notived any other trailers built with a minivan/large FWD barge rear suspension. Anyone know why?

I can understand the commercial trailer companies not wanting to get a used axle under their new trailers, but all the custom made jobs?

Is it just that people don't know about this? Any reason that I am not aware?

Since I'm planning on building myself a teardrop trailer in the near future, I'm planning to go a similar way. Any reason why I shouldn't go that way?

I think people just don't know. I've thought about it, just never got motivated enough to follow through. I wanted to build a low weight small car hauler using two of the axles.

There is quite a bit of standardization in trailer axles and parts. This may be one reason commercial builders stick with common trailer axles. For example, if I need bearings for my trailer, all I have to ask for is bearings for a 5200 lb axle.

Now for homebuilts, I have seen many trailers with the rear beam axle from FWD vehicles. Done right it should work quite well.

interesting thought on that.. car and minivan bearings hold up a -lot- better than the standard trailer bearings.

They also see different loads, especially on a multi-axle trailer. Ever seen how the tires deform on a tight turn?

I can definitely see the appeal of standardized parts.

In reply to mad_machine:

This is EXACTLY what I thought when he said this. My dad's bass boat trailer goes through bearings like they are going out style.

Back in the 80's my dad used to hoard ford fiesta rear axles to make light duty trailers with.

From this forum or its sister, what I really would love as a tow vehicle:

Assuming the GVWR was split evenly between front & rear axles on the donor minivan is probably not a safe assumption. FWD cars are very front-heavy.

Getting working trailer brakes on that axle is likely to be difficult as well.

I have a 5x8 utility trailer built on a Caravan rear axle. I got it from a friend, who had it built by another friend.

I haven't had it long or abused it much, but it seems solid as all heck. It's low so it's easy to load, but it's so low I actually worry about hanging the axle tube on something. I think they cut the beam axle and then welded it back to a tube to widen it - it's almost 12" wider than my Explorer, plus the welds and 3" steel pipe are kind of a giveaway . On the road the axle tube might be 6" off the pavement, maybe not that much.

I dont see the appeal when the very first listing on Google turned up a new 2,000 lb trailer axle kit for $199. everything you need and dont have to worry about used parts. Also, hyd brakes from the minivan are of no value. Do you use the minivan shocks or just the springs?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200593636_200593636?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Trailers%20%2B%20Towing%20%3E%20Trailer%20Axles&utm_campaign=Reliable&utm_content=430149&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=430149&gclid=CjwKEAjwzuisBRClgJnI4_a96zwSJACAEZKe-7IeUFanF51QkFKDCv0YBegi8q1sDo9FmXkRNeRjzRoCxY7w_wcB

It's a matter of standardization, probably liability to some extent as well. Regardless of a lot of overlap in design constraints, a minivan axle is designed for minivan service, not a trailer. If it uses nonstandard bearings or hub units there is also concern over whether or not quality bearings will continue to be available.

The hydraulic brakes are useful though, walk onto any uhaul lot and see how the bigger trailers are built. Spring loaded telescopic tongue with a master cylinder that applies whenever the trailer gets shoved towards the vehicle.

I don't know how y'all are going through trailer bearings "like crazy" assuming you are using decent quality bearings and pack them correctly. The hub airspace, cap included should be 1/2-2/3 full of grease. It seems every hand packed car or trailer hub I've ever touched just had the bearings themselves packed and slapped into a dry hub. They won't live long that way.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: I don't know how y'all are going through trailer bearings "like crazy" assuming you are using decent quality bearings and pack them correctly. The hub airspace, cap included should be 1/2-2/3 full of grease. It seems every hand packed car or trailer hub I've ever touched just had the bearings themselves packed and slapped into a dry hub. They won't live long that way.

It's probably due to salt water immersion around here.. but most trailer bearings here at the shore last about 2 years before they start to scream for attention. The smart guys replace and repack them every spring

codrus wrote: Assuming the GVWR was split evenly between front & rear axles on the donor minivan is probably not a safe assumption. FWD cars are very front-heavy. Getting working trailer brakes on that axle is likely to be difficult as well.

And trailer axles tend to be WIDE, whereas car/minivan axles are not.

By the time you're done screwing around, you could have just called up Northern Hydraulics or whoever and credit-carded a bolt together, known-factors situation for less time and effort and money.

I once built a small trailer from a very large electrical enclosure. Laid the enclosure on its back, put a K-car rear axle under it on coil springs and welded a tongue on one end. The enclosure's double doors had seals and acted like double trunk lids.With coil springs it bounced terribly until I added some brackets and shocks from a Chrysler Cordoba. I hauled my autocross gear in it and towed it with my VW GTI. It had 13" K-car rims mounted with Yokohama 001R tires. It cornered rather well. :)

mad_machine wrote:

Kenny_McCormic wrote: I don't know how y'all are going through trailer bearings "like crazy" assuming you are using decent quality bearings and pack them correctly. The hub airspace, cap included should be 1/2-2/3 full of grease. It seems every hand packed car or trailer hub I've ever touched just had the bearings themselves packed and slapped into a dry hub. They won't live long that way.

It's probably due to salt water immersion around here.. but most trailer bearings here at the shore last about 2 years before they start to scream for attention. The smart guys replace and repack them every spring

Bearing Buddies will solve your boat trailer problems.

Yes, they can be a little messy because they push some grease out of the rear seal, but it beats changing rusted old bearings every year or two. I've got three boat trailers. Two with Bearing Buddy, one without, because of bastard sized hubs. The two with, have been running the same bearings for close to 10 years. I don't repack or do any maintenance other than shoot some grease to them when needed, to keep them full.

They are worth every penny.

I don't run them on my utility trailers. I buy quality bearings and haven't ever had a failure other than snapping a 30 year old, rusted out, axle.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: It's a matter of standardization, probably liability to some extent as well. Regardless of a lot of overlap in design constraints, a minivan axle is designed for minivan service, not a trailer. If it uses nonstandard bearings or hub units there is also concern over whether or not quality bearings will continue to be available. The hydraulic brakes are useful though, walk onto any uhaul lot and see how the bigger trailers are built. Spring loaded telescopic tongue with a master cylinder that applies whenever the trailer gets shoved towards the vehicle. I don't know how y'all are going through trailer bearings "like crazy" assuming you are using decent quality bearings and pack them correctly. The hub airspace, cap included should be 1/2-2/3 full of grease. It seems every hand packed car or trailer hub I've ever touched just had the bearings themselves packed and slapped into a dry hub. They won't live long that way.

I prefer electric brakes on a trailer. You can turn your controller up and down as needed and engage the trailer brakes independently. I imagine uhaul uses the hudraulics because most people that show up on their lots don't have a brake controller.

81cpcamaro wrote: There is quite a bit of standardization in trailer axles and parts. This may be one reason commercial builders stick with common trailer axles. For example, if I need bearings for my trailer, all I have to ask for is bearings for a 5200 lb axle.

^This.

I just put new brakes on my wife's horse trailer.

The trailer is a 1978. I called up and ordered 10" trailer drum brake assemblies.

Un-bolted the old ones, bolted the new ones on and they fit and work like new.

Complete assemblies were $45.00 each, just a set of shoes is $35.

I love standardisation.

I've built several, and the three biggest drawbacks:

Weird widths. Datsun F10 wagon rear axles rock, for 40" wide trailers. Caravan ones too, for 46" wide trailers.

Weird springs. Caravan springs have about 6" of travel from empty to fully loaded. That's a lot for a trailer, especially when the spring is under the axle. Spring perches and shackles have to be crazy long. The leaf springs are also not parallel, making frame building more involved. They are also weird widths, so standard trailer springs don't fit.

Wheel bolt patterns. With a standard trailer axle you can walk in to WalMart and grab a new tire and rim. Where are you going to find a spare k-car rim on a Sunday night in the middle of nowhere?

That said, I've got a couple of little trailers using vw rabbit or Scion xB rear spindles and hubs on fabricated axles. That gets me the 4x100 bolt pattern and lets me use my car spare as a spare for the trailer. Axle and spring parts are standard trailer stuff, just with a flange instead of an axle stub welded on each end.

codrus wrote: Assuming the GVWR was split evenly between front & rear axles on the donor minivan is probably not a safe assumption. FWD cars are very front-heavy. Getting working trailer brakes on that axle is likely to be difficult as well.

You'd be right if we were looking at curb weight- they're front heavy.

But I think it is a reasonable assumption regarding GVWR. That includes cargo capacity and towing tongue weight. The rear is designed to handle much more weight than its static curb weight.

The right way to do it is to consider GAWR.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: It's a matter of standardization, probably liability to some extent as well. Regardless of a lot of overlap in design constraints, a minivan axle is designed for minivan service, not a trailer. If it uses nonstandard bearings or hub units there is also concern over whether or not quality bearings will continue to be available. The hydraulic brakes are useful though, walk onto any uhaul lot and see how the bigger trailers are built. Spring loaded telescopic tongue with a master cylinder that applies whenever the trailer gets shoved towards the vehicle. I don't know how y'all are going through trailer bearings "like crazy" assuming you are using decent quality bearings and pack them correctly. The hub airspace, cap included should be 1/2-2/3 full of grease. It seems every hand packed car or trailer hub I've ever touched just had the bearings themselves packed and slapped into a dry hub. They won't live long that way.

That telescopic tongue idea might work, but it doesn't make the hydraulic brakes useful.

It would easily cost 2-3 times the cost of a proper trailer axle, and you'll never find one in a junkyard.

Additionally, you can't use a brake controller, so towing would be more dangerous.

What's the point?

Geeze, where is the GRM spirit?

FWD rear axles work very well for home-made trailers. Especially little to mid sized utility trailers using the rear axles from minivans.

As a DIY, the stock brakes will work well with a hydraulic surge brake master cylinder. If brakes are desired. Many times, especially with the littler trailers, they are superfluous.

Biggest counterpoint, imo, is total price of a diy trailer vs buying a good used one. It's about break even, so why bother? Even worse when looking at the little utility trailers from the likes of HarborFreight.

In reply to spitfirebill:

Sometimes it's cheaper to just use the right parts.

rcutclif wrote: From this forum or its sister, what I really would love as a tow vehicle:

That thing is cool, I'll grant you, but considering it was rated to tow a maximum of 3,000 lbs when it was a Caravan, I'm questioning the wisdom of that load out. And the longevity of the 41TE.