So, as the 66 Chevy II project lumbers on, I find that I am nearing a place where I need to put fluids in all the various systems and get ready for that initial start-up. One of the missing pieces I have identified is an engine oil dipstick and dipstick tube. Apparently, when I bought this fresh rebuild 15 years ago, it did not have one. Now I am tasked with finding one that will fit.
As I understand it, this is a mid-1980's truck block, 350 cid. The dipstick hole is on the passenger side. What fits? Anybody have a particular aftermarket unit that they've had good luck with? I'd rather not shell out for a Lokar unit if I'm not even sure it will fit.
It almost looks like the dipstick hole is threaded. Are these all press-in?
I'm heading out to look at it again. I'll post up block numbers, if that will help.
OOoops! Never mind. That's not the right hole! What I found last night turns out to be a through hole for mounting the starter, and it is indeed threaded.
So no I have no idea where the dipstick hole is. 
Number on the pad on the front of the engine is V1107PLB
Dorman makes a replacement assembly. It's like ten bucks.
V1107PLB
Says it was made in Flint, November 07th, and "PL" is a 283 from a '65 Chevy II 4-speed. If so, the dipstick will be as shown. "PLB" says it's an '88 454.
What are the casting numbers?
How to decode Chevy Engine Codes (nastyz28.com)
THE COMPLETE (camaros.org)
Okay. Found it. Passenger side. Much easier to discern location from below. Invisible from above.
I can't imagine whose idea it was to shove this big V8 engine in this little bitty car. 
Guys! Did you ever lose your dipstick?
Sounds serious. I learned to be a lot more careful where I put it as I got older.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I know I had written down the casting numbers at some point. I hope I can find them, because I have literally no hope of getting my eyeballs on the back of the block, since it's shoehorned up against the firewall.
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:
Guys! Did you ever lose your dipstick?
Sounds serious. I learned to be a lot more careful where I put it as I got older.
Read the thread title, immediately recalled this: (Those of you around in the early 90's may remember it)
You wouldn't be the first to need to fabricate a custom dipstick assembly for a swap. But it doesn't sound too difficult.
The devil is in the details...
did you check the medicine cabinet?
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
did you check the medicine cabinet?
I leave it there some times 
I don't have anything meaningful to contribute but a somewhat funny story in answer to the thread title:
Had a buddy with an old Nissan where the dipstick handle broke off but the dipstick itself was seized in the tube. No amount of drilling, heat, or swearing would dislodge it. We finally got frustrated enough to just block off the pcv and pressurize the crankcase with compressed air (fully aware the likely outcome would be some blown seals but by that point we had tunnel vision)
After what seemed like an excessive amount of pressure, the dipstick finally ejected itself and launched into orbit. I caught a glimpse of it flying over the roof of my house off into the woods somewhere. To be fair we didn't put much effort into the recovery but that's the only time I've lost a dipstick.
I have the opposite issue: I somehow wound up with a Ford dipstick in my garage.
I don't have a Ford.
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:
V1107PLB
Says it was made in Flint, November 07th, and "PL" is a 283 from a '65 Chevy II 4-speed. If so, the dipstick will be as shown. "PLB" says it's an '88 454.
What are the casting numbers?
How to decode Chevy Engine Codes (nastyz28.com)
THE COMPLETE (camaros.org)
I wouldn't mind knowing more about this engine. The number I can see on the DS rear of the engine is "GM 5.7 LG" and under that are the letters "SGI," which I understand to mean "spheroidal graphite iron."
Where can I find the casting number?
Edit: I looked again at that number ending in PLB and there's no way it's anything but "PLB." It's super clear and well-defined. And it's not a 454.
Funny how even the most authoritative number references don't always get it right. GM must have recycled a lot of these codes.
IF the block has GM 5.7 it is definitely a late model block. Casting number is on the drivers side rear near where the transmission bolts up, its the flat area.
Okay, number fun time.
Casting number is 14093638.
Thank you, cellphone camera!
From outintheshop website, that's a 1987-1995, 350, Car & Truck 2 & 4-bolt Passenger stick 1-piece seal
Edit: FWIW, the last three of the casting number appears at least two other places on the block. "638".
Just for kicks, I looked at the numbers on the original engine, sitting in a corner of my garage.
Casting number 3782870, which is 1962-1967, 327, Car and Truck 2-bolt, which makes it very likely the engine original to the car.
Engine code on the front pad is F0808HC, which means it shares my son's birthday ( ! ), made in Flint in '66 or prior.
HC for 1966 indicates 327ci, 275hp, 4-bbl carb and a Powerglide.
After I get this running, I may go back and rebuild the original. Definitely holding on to it.
Rosco P. Coltrane never did!! " Come on you Dipstick!"
Small block Chevy...
Driver's side dipstick from 1955-79
Passenger side dipstick 1980+
Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) said:
Small block Chevy...
Driver's side dipstick from 1955-79
Passenger side dipstick 1980+
Remember, small block Chevys are easy to work on and everything interchanges.
Except for two or three different oil pan shapes.
And some didn't have motor mounts on the sides.
And some heads don't have accessory mounting holes, and the ones that do come in different flavors.
And there are two or three different intake manifold bolt patterns.
And some early ones didn't have starter bosses.
But aside from that, they're all the same.
And the 400 blocks had steam holes to prevent air pockets from forming due to the siamesed cylinder walls...
And three different main bearing diameters, one or two piece crank seals, and and and...
SV reX
MegaDork
6/22/23 8:52 a.m.
Dude loses his dipstick by trying to put it in the wrong hole.
Ouch.
