Log Jack/chainsaw woes....

I bought a log jack from tractor supply for 37.99 and it broke in 1/2 an hour. I called the store and they're going to replace it, and call me when the exact same one I just broke arrives.

The tree we were cutting up is on the ground, after the last big wind storm we had a month or so ago at my parents neighbors house. It is atleast 175+ foot tall red oak that landed next to his house. We have 5 truckloads ready to be cut up. The problems I find is that whenever we undertake one of these ordeals our chainsaws/wedges get stuck in the tree on the ground, then it takes another hour or so of getting creative with it to them out. And since half the things we own are so jury rigged anyway is a PITA to keep things running all the time.

I've got 2nd hand chainsaws, log jacks, etc. The log jack I just bought is new but a POS.

Am I the only one with this problem? Is everything around you jury rigged and or in some state of disrepair. The only things that I have that are new are things that weren't that expensive, as I can't justify spending $800 on a stihl chainsaw to cut through a 40" log, which is what we are cutting.

Andrew

I try not to jury rig potentially dangerous tools like chainsaws and the like.

Can't you just go rent a bigger/better saw or jack for way less than $800 and get the job done quicker and safer? Sounds like you're biting off more than you can chew equipment-wise.

Just my opinion from the other side of the internet.

If your wedges are getting stuck that bad, you're doing something wrong.

It's all about physics and gravity. The chainsaw only plays a small part.

where do oak trees grow to 175 feet tall?

My dad went through four Craftsman chainsaws cutting through the trees he downed in his back yard. He finally bought a second-hand Husqvarna on ebay and it cuts through them like butter.

You can get a big enough Husqvarna from tractor supply on sale for less than $300.00. +1 on what NYG95GA said. Step back and think about what you are trying to accomplish. Think of ways to use physics and gravity to your advantage.

We heat with 95% wood and cut our own firewood. I'm in the middle of 20 acres of virgin hard wood and only cut trees that are diseased or felled from a storm. These trees will be 150+ feet tall Oak and Hickory. A 16" and 24" Husqvarna are used to fell and cut trees.

I dont use a log jack, I use another log to prop a log that has been cut to a more managable size. Are you splitting with the wedges or just trying to avoid pinching the saw? If the saw pinches, see the above about props.

We rented a 46cc stihl with a 20" bar, it works pretty well, tree is at an awkward angle. I've worked for tree trimmers in the past and know what I'm doing, but occasionally still get the saw or chain caught in a cut. I do use plastic wedges, but personally it always seems like when I go into projects like these it takes really long and ends up spending more then I had planned on.

Gladly or neighbor has 2 trees down of about the same size and length. There is a 3rd that he has yet to find a professional that will drop it for him, as its teetering over his house and ready to drop at any moment. I should have enough wood to last a couple of years, so no viagra needed.

Andrew

I had a patient that was a retired logger in Deep East Texas. He would only use a Stihl. If your chainsaw didn't work, you didn't work, so it was important. He would buy a new Stihl every year, use it every day, then pitch it and buy another one. He said with a Stihl, you worked all day, then went to the house. With other chainsaws, you worked all day, then worked on your chainsaw to try to keep it going.

A 40 inch tree, two trees down, a third to bring down. Yea, I'd buy a good saw. I could sure justify that $800 Stihl under those conditions.

I have a Stihl Farm Boss, it's more than paid for itself. IIRC, it was under $400 new. Mine is around 3-4 years old and I have zero complaints with it.

My father has a Farm Boss from 1977 that he still uses. My parents have heated their house with wood during the winter all of those years, so his saw has seen a tremendous amount of use over that time. He maintains it very well, but a 33 year old chainsaw that still works well is a real testament to how they build them. I'm sure the newer models aren't as overbuilt as the old ones, but they're still a good saw.

I'd invest in the right equipment.

I'm going to at some point, I dunno if stihl is the right equipment though. They are good but extremely expensive. I'm looking into makita chainsaw's, Bailey's a catalog that sells logging supplies sells them. They state that they recieve the least amount of complaints about them. But yeah.

For the log jack or whatever, I'm gonna hit up the local welding shop this week and get a heavier duty one made.

Andrew

For the average guy, a Poulan from Lowe's is sufficient, but when the going gets tough, look in the bed of a tree surgeon's truck. You won't see anything but Stihls or Huskies.

The difference is the tree surgeon has the money to invest in such things, where as I cannot spend $800 on a chainsaw. Its like the ever popular snap-on versus craftsman tool topic, yeah snap-on is the best but the craftsman will work for most jobs...

Andrew

i hope you are cutting it into lengths for the sawmill, if its that tall the trunk will give tons of boards