RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
12/31/24 1:43 p.m.

Ok, I promise, this is the last thread I'm making about this deck. I'm going to save it, because even with Google I can't find any of the old ones I've made. 

The time has definitely come though, so I'm putting this in off topic in hopes of more eyes and advice than in the build thread section. 

So the situation is this: I need to rebuild our current deck. It is 6 feet by 8 feet, and 20 inches off the ground. There is a building on either side of the 6 foot span that looks like it's currently attached to the concrete on either building, there is a ramp I have every intention of saving and no need to rebuild just reconnect on one side of the 8 foot span, and 2 steps down on the other side.  The deck is currently held up with 4x4 posts at the corners, on a pea gravel base. 

I don't honestly know how to bury something in concrete without a major dig happening in the pea gravel, so don't really want to do that. I also don't know if that's the best idea either.

What I do want is the best material to make this a once a decade or less often project. I was thinking pressure treated, but I can't really put an anti skid on that. Regular wood will need lots of annual maintenance or an epoxy coating, but can be coated with anti skid. Composites get hot, but what else do they do good and bad? That's a really big puddle of concrete to pour. Metal would be awesome, but priced way too high unless one of you is scrapping a fire escape and would deliver it?

So maybe level paving stones as post bases, each corner, mid span each way, and one in the center? Using ground contact rated 4x4s. Boards attached to the house and the garage, as well as the posts for a frame. Maybe cross brace it somehow before putting on the top?

I'm not concerned about a railing. I am concerned about this being a dragged out project, because this is our main way in and out of the house. There are other ways, but bringing groceries up the basement steps sucks and it would be nice to be avoided. 

Having never built a deck before, I'm open to any and all advice. This will probably be a spring project, but I want gears turning now, and if possible, to start stockpiling materials so it isn't as big of a financial hit all at once. 

RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
12/31/24 1:50 p.m.

Because a thread is worthless without pics

Best things ever, definitely need to keep the ramp

Something broke about in the corner with the ramp, hence the need to replace versus repair, most of this wood is shot 

I'm sorry, 3 steps

ok, mixed supports already

SV reX
SV reX MegaDork
12/31/24 1:55 p.m.

Some pictures would help. That took a lot of words to describe. 
 

There is ZERO chance I would use anything  on an exterior deck that was not pressure treated (or naturally decay resistant, which is more expensive).  Why can't you put anti-skid on PT?

If slipping is an issue, you might want to avoid composites.  They can be slippery as whale snot when wet.

Are you saying the deck touches or is supported by the neighbor's house?

6'x8' doesn't need many support posts.  20" high doesn't require a railing at all (by code).

I wouldn't use paver blocks..  They are not designed to support a point load.  There are plastic post bases that are designed to support a post on the surface- no digging.

 

SV reX
SV reX MegaDork
12/31/24 1:55 p.m.

Oh good... pics help!

SV reX
SV reX MegaDork
12/31/24 1:58 p.m.

Everything must be pressure treated, and I would consider ground contact for all of it. Those 2 buildings mean a lot of water is splashing and not draining away.

SV reX
SV reX MegaDork
12/31/24 2:32 p.m.

What's the 4" PVC pipe to the right of the ramp?  It looks like a roof drain (good idea) , but I don't see a downspout dumping into it, and it appears to be draining uphill.

The deck platform would be pretty simple to rebuild. Temporarily brace the ramp, demo the deck and stairs, build a new platform from building to building.

Even with no experience, it shouldn't be hard to finish in a couple of weekends by yourself.

Consider enlarging the platform a little.  Might be nice to have a little more space for people or packages.

I'd also consider building the stairs the full width from building to building.  No guard rail.  Or maybe another ramp.

I know you want to keep the ramp (I definitely get it). If it was mine I'd rebuild it the full width of the alley.  Perhaps an idea for the future...

STM317
STM317 PowerDork
12/31/24 3:24 p.m.

I'd level/tamp the pea gravel and drop some of these where your posts are. Can also support joists. They make plastic alternatives, but I trust concrete more long term, and they elevate the lumber higher off the ground/away from standing water than the plastic ones that I've seen.

 

I also agree with SVrex about widening the stairs and the ramp to fill the space between structures. It really reduces the risk of anyone or thing falling off the side, and any handrail can be solidly attached to the block on the side rather than having to construct a railing.

RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
12/31/24 4:33 p.m.

There has been talk and thought. I'm probably going to widen the stairs if I don't extend the deck the whole way to the chimney to make getting stuff to the birds easier. Being able to take a dolly the whole way around would be awesome until I redo the inside of the garage again and make it a pass through

No idea what the pipe is to the right of the ramp. There are multiple stubs that look like vents that are capped off. That one in particular went up above the roof on of the garage with a flimsy extension that kept falling. I capped it and nothing bad happened so it's just there. 

The only thing really stopping me from making the ramp full width is the dryer vent coming out below where the ramp would be. That needs regular lint clearing, so hiding it under the ramp would suck.

This section is all as it came with the house, whatever cheap ass fever dream method the previous owner used to make things work with scraps from other projects. 

SV reX
SV reX MegaDork
12/31/24 5:35 p.m.

In reply to RevRico :

You could extend the dryer line out from under the deck, or raise it higher, or make an access panel in the deck.  There are also interior lint boxes which might work. 

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
12/31/24 6:19 p.m.

Bookmarking this thread.  The deck on the house I'm looking at is.... spongy.

Steve_Jones
Steve_Jones UltraDork
12/31/24 7:26 p.m.

90% of the reason that lint box needs to be cleaned out frequently is the way it's installed. 

DrMikeCSI
DrMikeCSI Reader
12/31/24 9:39 p.m.

This looks like it is in the same condition and the same color that my deck is. Mine is now 20 years old and very worn. 

RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
1/1/25 7:13 p.m.

So just the deck itself, does this sound right? 

All lumber ground contact rated. 

2x8s along either wall, then spanning the gap on 12 inch centers 

4x4s on level ground in each corner of the frame, in the middle of each perimeter side, and maybe in the middle of the whole thing. Tied to the 2x8s with through bolts. Sitting on leveled paver stones. 

5/4x6 for the actual deck, screwed at every joist, perpendicular to the joists. 1/4"between boards?

 

SV reX
SV reX MegaDork
1/1/25 9:00 p.m.

In reply to RevRico :

That will work mostly...

- You don't need 12" centers (but they will work fine)

- Nothing wrong with the 4x4s, but you could just bolt your ledger to the walls

- Over the years I've bolted many decks to their posts, but it is technically no longer legal.  Your structure needs to bear ON the posts, not hang on the shear of the bolts.  Code would require a metal connector between the structure and the post.  (The bolts will work fine- they just don't meet code any more)

- Use joist hangers for each joist 

- Don't space your deck boards.  Mail them tight.  They will shrink and leave you with 1/4" gaps.  If you install them with gaps, the gaps will grow to 1/2" when the boards shrink. High heels will get caught in the gaps.

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
cYBMG5DFmBOhsiU59PLp4prbKUvH3uxdM3kH9LxuyUkz63TDPQ1ZwtEjvTvhiDZJ