I have the 4 cu ft version of that mixer, it works well. I can do 3-4 60 lb bags per batch, with the smaller one it will probably be one 80lb bag at a time.
I have the 4 cu ft version of that mixer, it works well. I can do 3-4 60 lb bags per batch, with the smaller one it will probably be one 80lb bag at a time.
In reply to EvanB :
Thanks, almost all of the reviews mentioned people happily slinging 60# bags one at a time. 80# is cheaper by volume but, might be harder and end up being more work in the end. I'm planning to have one of us mix and the other one rake.
When we mixed up concrete for the bottom of a couple of egress window wells with drains using a rented mixer like yours was to carefully measure how much water you use to mix up the first batch of concrete mix in order to wind up with the stiffest mix you can get. We than poured that exact same amount of water into a 3 gallon water jug and made a marker line on the jug so that each batch had the same consistency. We used QUIKRETE 5000psi mix.
How to Hand Mix QUIKRETE® Concrete
We had to build a little concrete block and plywood stand for the mixer so that it was taller than the sides of the wheel barrow. We also laid down cheap poly tarps to help keep the grass somewhat clean. I mixed up the concrete, my son wheeled it over and dumped it into the window well and filled the water jugs, and my other son spread out and float and broom finished off the slab.
I'm pretty sure we used 60lb bags because I'm old.
The fountain is looking great.
Also, rent a battery powered vibrator when you pour the concrete. Don't over vibrate.
We poured the slab today. I used 80lb bags:
40lbs was going so easy and smoothly that we tried a full 80 in the mixer. It worked, but we could hear that the motor was really straining. The last thing I wanted was to cook the motor half way through the job, so we stuck to the 40lb mix. With three of us not in any hurry it took about 3 hours - figure about 5 minutes per mixer load.
It's going to set for about two weeks, then I'll build up the form for the sides and do another pour. My plan is to have the outside edge made of blocks standing the tall way, mortered onto the foundation blocks. The inside form will be metal roof flashing material braced on 2x4s. The flashing being an easy way to form the circular curve.
VolvoHeretic said:Also, rent a battery powered vibrator when you pour the concrete. Don't over vibrate.
Or just hit the forms with a rubber mallet, it works well
AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) said:The entire basin is roughly under two yards of concrete. The Googles say that less than a full 10 yard load (short-load) should cost just under $175 per yard. If I truck it in, it makes sense to do it once rather than multiple deliveries. Maybe it's best to have a walkway ready to pour or replace the brick patio in back with a slab while I'm at it. Between friends at work and local family, I can get a crew together. It's going to take some time and planning to have everything in place to execute the pour all at once - A day that all the people can be available and the truck can deliver. *That's why most people pay a few thousand to have this done for them. I want to spend under $Challenge car to have this complete. Basically I'm planning to build the equivalent of a small swimming pool for the basin.
Totally missed this thread before now but at least in my area, a short yard premium is for under 4 yards.
Concrete is hard work, 4 yds will mean you are moving 16,000 pounds of material
I decided to make the sides of the basin to about 14" to 16" high depending on how I cap it - probably bricks, maybe moulded blocks. Right now it is 11" high. I have some 10" tall galvanized flashing material that will form the inner curve as I pour the interior wall of the basin.
I have the flashing partailly braced with 2x4s and partly with concrete blocks. I plan to fill the plastic swimming pool with water to help keep the flashing in place with a steady curve. I can see a few ways that this could go badly and plan to put more (and heavier) concrete blocks in the pool to brace the form. Planning to pour shallow all the way around, then keep steadily pouring around, increasing the height a few inches at a time until I reach the top of the flashing/form.
Now I wait a couple days while it sets. I won't be able to see most of it until I drain the pool and remove the form. So far it looks like it worked well.
The next decision is how to cap the top edge.
For the top, maybe pool coping? Used to be able to buy curved sections.
Of course, no idea about suppliers or cost in Oklahoma.
Pool coping got my interest, but I haven't found any in the immediate area and haven't had time to look elsewhere. I just found these antique bricks on FB market. I like the color and aesthetic. I could get a pallet or two and use them for both the cap of the basin and surround on ground level. I may go see them later in the week.
I picked up a pallet of 100+ year old brick paving stones today. I like the look and feel. New bricks would not have worked for me.
Next, I plan to wash them and mortar them in. The inside wall of the basin will be tiled and the bottom polished a bit, then sealed. ...maybe.
I might have missed it but how do you seal the joint between the bottom and the walls?
I dig the look of those bricks!
In reply to jfryjfry :
I put a thick bead of polyurethane sealant at the base of the form. It kept the concrete from seeping, but I'm not sure how it would do as a long term waterproof seal.
Today I set the bricks in place with mortar. I'm going to let it set overnight, then use a mortar bag to fill the gaps between the blocks.
After I sanded the slab smooth and was ready to apply a sealant, Mrs AAZCD said it would be too slippery. We decided to use a vinyl concrete patch mix to do a stucco type finish on the interior. -It should help with the waterproofing.
I'm pretty happy with how the basin is coming out. Tested it today. I drilled through a ceramic birdbath and ran the pump through it. The birdbath is temporary. With an 8' diameter pool, we want something bigger.
What are we going to do for the actual fountain? I messaged a couple Facebook sellers. One would deliver, but the concrete was too deteriorated. The other is too far for me to pick up anytime soon.
I started looking at big box stores and Amazon. Almost all the fountains I saw there circulate water between platters. They don't lift if from a basin.
I probably need to take a trip to the city and shop at a place that specializes in lawn & garden stuff with decorative concrete. That isn't going to be able to happen for a few weeks. My schedule is full well into July.
If I can't find a good piece to buy any time soon, there's the possibility of DIY. I have plenty of brick, concrete, and car parts. I may even work with clay and the kiln that I haven't fired up since before I started buying Porsches.
Still haven't found a massive concrete tiered sculpture fountain thingie. We did find a fiberglass fountain that I'm pretty sure I can modify to work the way I want it.
Meanwhile we have three floating light-up mini fountains and a couple more on the way. They probably will fail after a couple months in the water, but they cost less than $20.
Oops
Nothing to see here. Move along
To follow-up; The fountain has been going well, but it continues to be a project as I experiment and refine. The original pump and solar unit was rated at 250 gph and that wasn't putting about as much flow as we wanted. Now I'm running it with a 350 gph pump with twice the area of PV cells and two batteries instead of one. The battery units on Amazon had poor reviews and the one that I bought with the original pump was weak. I made my own with two batteries and a 10A controller. It now runs well into darkness in the evening and doesn't take long to power up on a sunny morning.
I will eventually lay a pathway across the lawn to the fountain. For now, I'm happy with loose bricks laid in 'paver sand' surrounding the fountain. I really like the look and feel of these 100+ year old bricks.
We swap out different nozzle heads. On windy days a thick burble is best. I have a narrow one that sprays about four feet above the top and most of the water can be blown outside the pool on a windy day.
I'm working on lighting now. The little floaters were fun for a while, but make it look cluttered. At night, I want to illuminate the flowing water. Still looking for the right product. We also may make a ring to spray water from the outside edge towards the center. Amazon has a few for $$$Thousands - not interested and don't understand the price. Most recently I drained it and applied a sealant to the concrete. It was a junk mix of leftovers made with Linseed oil, Clearcoat, Laquer Thinner, and Jet Fuel. I'm actually happy with how it came out. The only issue was a fine film on the water surface after I refilled it. A pool skimmer cleaned it off easily. With it sealed, I'm comfortable putting pool chemicals in it from time to time if there's algae or cloudyness in the water.
In reply to AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) :
Stay away from anything with salt, it actually destroys the chemical bonds that make concrete, concrete.
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