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Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/23/11 7:44 p.m.

I've got 154k on my SC2 5-spd. (bought it w/ 95k 3 years ago) With all the Saturns in your driveway pics, I don't think I can tell you anything you don't already know. Liking the special effect you're using in your pics!

patgizz
patgizz GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
10/23/11 8:55 p.m.

theres a 5 speed 97 sc2 at akron pull a part if you need stuff

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
10/23/11 9:49 p.m.

Well, its officially a project car now. It has a new home in the garage and its up in the air ready for repairs/mods.

Dad and I gave it a quick once over and heres what turned up:

  • Rear brakes are original, never touched. Not bad for 125K miles. R/R rear brakes

  • Front caliper sliders are frozen. Will tear down and maybe i can just get away with a pin kit for those. R/R front brakes

  • Needs two rear sway bar endlinks. R/R endlinks

  • Some misc. stuff under hood need attention. Some wiring is routed wrong, a heater hose is kinked, etc. just some sorting.

  • Valve cover is leaking. PO replaced gasket. Maybe the cover is warped...it does happen. R/R valve cover/gasket.

  • Clutch is weird. Feels super hard, engagement is odd, and i feel it needs replacing. I am comparing the feel to my '99 Saturn which has a <30k miles on it and the wagon feels like crap. Ill pull the inspection cover and, well, inspect it.

AND here is the best part...

The engine and trans ID numbers are not matching. The trans matches the car the engine not so much. At some point the engine was replaced with a junkyard unit. Not worrying me too much as it runs well but something i noted. I THINK is a 1998 engine and the header is from the '99 saturn wagon. HUGE exhaust leak at the header because the wrong header on wrong head/ wrong gasket. hahaha what a mess but hopefully a quick fix and not broken studs, which was my fear.

And thats the update for the weekend.

SyntheticBlinkerFluid
SyntheticBlinkerFluid Dork
10/23/11 9:57 p.m.

Holy crap dude what a mess. I thought that clutch was weird. Odd engagement, felt too stiff.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
10/23/11 10:25 p.m.
SyntheticBlinkerFluid wrote: Holy crap dude what a mess. I thought that clutch was weird. Odd engagement, felt too stiff.

still not worrying me haha. i throw some money at it and fix things up once, and it will be good for another 125K miles.

SyntheticBlinkerFluid
SyntheticBlinkerFluid Dork
10/23/11 10:39 p.m.

I'd be freaking out lol

ProDarwin
ProDarwin Dork
10/24/11 6:43 a.m.

2nd gen motor is likely based on the missing studs. Makes you wonder... why did they need to replace the engine before 125k miles? On the plus side, its a lot easier to get parts for and flows a lot better

It also makes you wonder... if they replaced the motor before 125k and (in all likelyhood) did the clutch at the same time, how could it possibly be bad by now? It's likely the hydraulics.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
10/25/11 5:01 p.m.
ProDarwin wrote: It also makes you wonder... if they replaced the motor before 125k and (in all likelyhood) did the clutch at the same time, how could it possibly be bad by now? It's likely the hydraulics.

Would not surprise me if original clutch is still in there. For cars under $2000 i almost feel like its expected. haha.

Check for leaks, and clutch reservoir is full. Appears like slave cylinder is not leaking either.

Like i said, a reused old clutch would not surprise me one bit

Twin_Cam
Twin_Cam SuperDork
10/25/11 7:41 p.m.

Be glad for the 1998 motor. Some '99s and newer can't accept the oh-so-easy factory exhaust header upgrade. And the older the motor, the more bolts those leaky-ass valve covers have.

I've never had to diagnose clutch problems, so I can't help you there.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
10/25/11 10:15 p.m.
Twin_Cam wrote: Be glad for the 1998 motor. Some '99s and newer can't accept the oh-so-easy factory exhaust header upgrade.

huh what?? am i missing something or overlooked a cool upgrade?

EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
10/25/11 10:21 p.m.
ProDarwin wrote: 2nd gen motor is likely based on the missing studs. Makes you wonder... why did they need to replace the engine before 125k miles? On the plus side, its a lot easier to get parts for and flows a lot better

Probably didn't check the oil and it all burned off...

I worked at a Saturn dealer and there was usually at least one S-car getting a used engine any given month.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
10/25/11 10:42 p.m.

Well today after work i started tear down on the saturn. I would say prob 2 or 3 hours for work and its more then half ready to pull...errr drop. Whole subframe is dropping as per SI/GM. Ill give it a try.

I labeled everything for ease of installation, cleaned some stuff up, poked around and generally had a chill time in the garage.

Hopefully finish up tomorrow and then drop asap.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
10/28/11 12:12 a.m.

All wiring removed and labeled, coolant and fluids drained. Hydraulic system removed.

Whole front suspension removed. Well mostly, figure since cradle is coming out might as well do bearings, brakes and control arm bushings, and ball joints, oh and tie rod ends.

As it sits its ready to drop the motor. Gotta love the SL/SW, the whole shebang was disassembled after work working a hour or two a night. Easy breezy.

ProDarwin
ProDarwin Dork
10/28/11 6:49 a.m.
CarKid1989 wrote:
Twin_Cam wrote: Be glad for the 1998 motor. Some '99s and newer can't accept the oh-so-easy factory exhaust header upgrade.
huh what?? am i missing something or overlooked a cool upgrade?

1991/1992 had a 4-2-1 header from the factory. You can pick one up on forums for ~$50 - $100. They flow pretty good and from a quality standpoint are waayyyy better than any of the aftermarket crap available: Hotshot flows well but cracks and is hard to find. SPS is the same deal. OBX is a leaky pile of E36 M3.

I have one, but its getting sold with the 94 SW2. About to put the whole package up for sale for challenge money, but this board still isn't working properly.

HStockSolo
HStockSolo Reader
10/28/11 7:15 a.m.

Top: 1995 manifold and Magnaflow downpipe/cat.

Bottom: 1991 4-2-1 header/downpipe

Assembled

ProDarwin
ProDarwin Dork
10/28/11 7:31 a.m.

Btw, do NOT put poly bushings in the Swaybar->LCA Connection

HStockSolo
HStockSolo Reader
10/28/11 9:29 a.m.

Yeah, those bushings in the arms are rather critical. I've had rubber ones in new control arms split after a year or so. The ones in there now seem fine. I have a softer SOHC front bar with the black Energy Suspension frame bushings. Unfortunately, to work most efficiently a normal sway bar shouldn't have any bushing compliance, but this design requires compliance just to allow motion.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
10/31/11 10:42 p.m.

well, i cannot safely get the car high enough to get the engine out from under it so i decided to go old school and just cherry picker the engine out the top. no biggie.

Friday, Oct 28th, i went to Pull A Part again and ended up getting more then i expected. Got factory mudflaps and foglights/ wiring, 1992 Saturn 4-2-1 exhaust manifold, and the plastic engine under tray.

Also, my gf, Joy came back from school and brought home the MINI wheels. From the quick mockup they should fit. Maybe a spacer in the back? not totally sure yet. They are 16inch wheels which are 1inch bigger then stock which sounds bigger but does not look it so much. But its a cheap upgrade that spruces up the car a bit and still is very streetable and comfortable. Hope it works out. also, suspension is at full droop so it adds to shrinking the look of the wheel.

So, life goes on

SyntheticBlinkerFluid
SyntheticBlinkerFluid Dork
10/31/11 10:46 p.m.

Awesome. Hope this all comes out good.

Since you've been under it, how is the underside? Any rust spots.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
10/31/11 10:48 p.m.
SyntheticBlinkerFluid wrote: Since you've been under it, how is the underside? Any rust spots.

Under side looks really really good. rust? surface in some spots but looks really good. nothing major, nothing to worry about or even take a second glance at.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
11/3/11 10:13 p.m.

Well, stopped by my uncles and picked up an engine hoist. Then after my work was done at home i wandered into the garage. Well, one thing led to another and i got to taking stuff off and you cant take engine mounts off without a hoist and you cant hook up a hoist without plans to take out an engine AND SO....

and an artsy fartsy pic

Came out great but when i seperated the trans from the engine i heard a clink. Look on the ground and found the old push arm from the hydraulic slave cylinder. Fell in or something, bent like a pretzel, and gouged the surfaces a bit. Also the arm of the slave cylinder that was in it now had its tip chewed up and covered up in a gob of electrical tape.

Maybe THIS was why my clutch was weird feeling. Clutch is worn too.

Well thats all i got for now

EdenPrime
EdenPrime Reader
11/3/11 10:27 p.m.

I see you're doing mostly repairing now-- but is this going to be tuned a bit into an Autox or track day car?

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
11/4/11 4:57 p.m.
EdenPrime wrote: I see you're doing mostly repairing now-- but is this going to be tuned a bit into an Autox or track day car?

This is going to be a daily driver with replacement parts picked with an eye on autox.

If i actually have time/money i may just actually go race again.

ProDarwin
ProDarwin Dork
11/4/11 5:32 p.m.

The 2nd gen and 3rd gen hydraulics/PP are different. I'm not sure if the mixup would cause what you have there, but be sure when you replace them you get a matching set. A lot of people hate the 3rd gen hydros, so best bet may be to order everything for a pre-99 car.

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Dork
11/4/11 9:12 p.m.
ProDarwin wrote: The 2nd gen and 3rd gen hydraulics/PP are different. I'm not sure if the mixup would cause what you have there, but be sure when you replace them you get a matching set. A lot of people hate the 3rd gen hydros, so best bet may be to order everything for a pre-99 car.

so get a 1998 clutch kit, hydros, etc? hmmm interesting

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