I may have gone a little overkill on it. Right now the throttles are angled up 5 degrees from being parallel to the port face. I want to do a little more checking before switching to a design I'll CNC machine.
I may have gone a little overkill on it. Right now the throttles are angled up 5 degrees from being parallel to the port face. I want to do a little more checking before switching to a design I'll CNC machine.
That's awesome!
Cool, I plan to do something similar on my 4AGE, but I'll actually run the 3D-printed part:
If you print it from Ultem it can work.
That’s awesome! Looking forward to seeing the progress
Tttthhhhhhhaaaaatttt’s pretty rad.
I've been back and forth about the idea of keeping it printed or not. There are nylons which would be appropriate as well. It's the mechanical performance that I'm worried about. Right now I'm of the mind to CNC it.
I'm not done with the design, yet, so I don't have a central repository for everything, but when I am I'll be releasing it under an open license.
I'd CNC that. If it didn't have a huge cantilevered load on it, maybe I'd consider printing.
GameboyRMH said:If you print it from Ultem it can work.
What's your estimated volume/weight? I feel like that part out of Ultem using Stratasys material would be >$500 in material alone.
ProDarwin said:I'd CNC that. If it didn't have a huge cantilevered load on it, maybe I'd consider printing.
GameboyRMH said:If you print it from Ultem it can work.
What's your estimated volume/weight? I feel like that part out of Ultem using Stratasys material would be >$500 in material alone.
Well on my budget, I hope not to use Stratasys anything! I could print in ABS and coat the insides for chemical resistance if Ultem is too expensive. I don't know about build volume...I'd guess maybe 1.5x the volume of burdickjp's adapters.
Good point that the cantilevered load would threaten to break that part if it's printed. I'm planning to use threaded rods connecting to the block for structural support.
Yeah a few threaded rod turnbuckles would alleviate most of the load. What chemical resistance are you worried about? I'd imagine gas doesn't really make it into the plastic areas as the injectors are further in toward the head. Oil might be an issue, but a catch system would prevent most of that. But... you can't catch everything.
I'm not super familiar with Ultem on home printers. On commercial grade printers, only the very high end machines can do it, and it is absurdly expensive.
The OEM Toyota ITBs have a brace to the block. I've considered doing so with mine, as well.
Worth mentioning: I'm also considering casting them.
^Definitely interested in more details if you do that. Stratasys has a nice whitepaper on using their PC-ABS in a sandcasting process.
I am considering using something with a lower melting temperature, like PLA or even a casting wax.
GameboyRMH said:Cool, I plan to do something similar on my 4AGE, but I'll actually run the 3D-printed part:
If you print it from Ultem it can work.
YOU CAN PRINT IN PEI!?!
damn what an age we live in...
Lost PLA casting in plaster or ceramic shell is possible, just saying
Rufledt said:Lost PLA casting in plaster or ceramic shell is possible, just saying
I've got an 1100 C furnace at work. Then my machining would just be clean up.
I'd be able to keep those crazy ribs!
Would nylonx hold up to the necessary temps?
revhard said:Would nylonx hold up to the necessary temps?
OEM plastic intake manifolds are basically the same stuff.
In reply to burdickjp :
I've done some lost wax casting using 3D printed parts before - definitely a worthwhile option. Used a filament called MoldLay on the makerbots at work with decent success. Think I may even have most of a spool of material laying around if anyone feels the need to experiment.
Though as previously mentioned, there are white papers out there about using the standard ABS material for a casting workflow.
NylonX indeed is very similar to what's used for factory plastic intakes, that stuff wasn't available when I was looking at materials for mine, and it can work with everyday home 3D printers unlike Ultem.
I've got a spool of colorFabb PA-CF, which appears to be very similar to NylonX. I intend on printing my velocity stacks out of it.
I'm still leaning toward casting or machining the manifold, though. I want to develop the capability of printing and casting.
revhard said:Would nylonx hold up to the necessary temps?
Nylon is pretty heat resistant, as a general rule. The original MS3Pro cases were made from nylon - we had a customer make the mistake of mounting one with double sided tape in the engine compartment, and had it fall onto the headers during an autocross run. He ended up with a dent in the case, but the ECU was still functioning!
You can use PETg and test it in the oven. To see If will holdup to the temps under the hood. Its a cross flow head so the temps cant be too high.
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