I finally found my leak! Question is how do I stop this from leaking? I can't find info on the plug thread size. I don't have the right socket so might as well ask the hive until I get it. Also, would this be a good place to put a trans temp sender instead?
It's a pressure switch on the 3rd gear circuit. My Elky being a '72 had a funky emissions feature called TCS (trans controlled spark) that would open (or close?) a vacuum solenoid in 3rd gear, allowing (or disallowing?) the distributor to advance a bit while at cruising speed. Of course the wire for that switch goes nowhere ever since I installed a proper carb, manifold, and ignition. The pressure sender is basically just a plug now, but lately it's not even doing that...
For reference, we are talking about the plug circled in blue:
Or #5 in this photo
If my memory serves me correctly it should be 1/8 npt to get a proper plug
Vigo
UltimaDork
12/12/18 12:13 a.m.
Yeah, it's 1/8 npt. If the threads aren't damaged tighten it, if they are damaged thread tape it.
Thanks guys, it was 1/8 NPT! Replacing the pressure sensor with a brass plug did the trick. No idea why it failed in the first place, but it's all good now.
They just do. Same as oil pressure senders. They - gm ones that i’m familiar with anyway- start leaking internally and weep out the center
I've been towing a lot with this rig and I would like to upgrade the trans cooler and install a temp gauge.
Does anyone have recommendations on what type of sender and where to put it? The internet is all over the place about this so I trust you guys the most.
For cooling, is it best to put an aux cooler downstream from the radiator one, or just bypass the radiator entirely? Also which port on the TH350 is inlet and outlet?
I'd go trans -> radiator -> aux cooler -> trans. That should give the best cooling capacity I think. Or if you want, just run a huge cooler and bypass the rad. If you run a big aux cooler and drive the car in cold weather, consider adding a thermostat to the cooler lines.
ShawnG
PowerDork
6/1/19 9:00 p.m.
Fluid goes through the cooler, then through the cooler in the rad, then back to the transmission.
ATF has an operating temperature it likes to be at, running it through the radiator cooler afterwards keeps it in the operating range.
ShawnG said:
Fluid goes through the cooler, then through the cooler in the rad, then back to the transmission.
ATF has an operating temperature it likes to be at, running it through the radiator cooler afterwards keeps it in the operating range.
Eh, most transmissions are fine with a pretty wide range of temps. And the whole "the rad cooler keeps it from getting too cold in the winter" thing is total BS. The cooler is on the cold side of the rad. Which isn't very warm at all when crusing under light load in very cold weather (which is exactly when the trans will also be making the least heat). So it'll still run much, much cooler than it would in the summer.
I have issues with the #6 and #7 leaking they are connected and I tried tightening the #11 bolt but still leaks.
Any ideas guys
