For some reason I have a morbid fascination with turning one of these
into a crapcan version of this
I haven't heard a lot of good things about these older Northstar V8s, but I haven't really looked into it much. So, is there a way to race one of these without it turning into this?
Also, was there any mis-match of OE parts that could be pieced together to get some of this?
and this?
Not at all likely to happen, but it's nice to dream... 
To be honest, I have never even cared to look this up. But now that its brought up, it would be cool to know. I may do some research and get back to you unless someone else gets to it first.
Aren't they FWD? I mean...not that there's anything wrong with that.
Tyler H wrote: Aren't they FWD? I mean...not that there's anything wrong with that.
Oh, there's lots of things wrong with that. 
But, yes, yes they are. I don't think it would ever be super competitive so don't really care. Would probably chew through front tires like crazy though.
I would check out the Fiero boards that did the swaps. I would think that they have some information about how to keep it together and what manual options are out there.
One of the fiero pages say that they used their stock trans and notched the bell housing for the N* starter. And I think I saw something about using one for a RWD too.
wiki says that you should be able to use a GM metric pattern (60 degree) transmission with a little work, just like stated above. Finding one that will survive could be a chore. The F40 trans from the G6 GTP used to be real cheap but likely have dried up by now.
It's been said before, but as long as we're on to bad ideas. Remove the N*, mate it up with a Fiero manual and shifter and move it to the back seat.
Build a ginormous beer cooler or hot tub up front. Call it Fronkey Monkey.
I had a fascination w/ these back then....
North Star engines suck. I looked at buying a used caddy about a month ago. Owner admitted it leaked oil. Two mechanics told me the engines just start leaking at about 80 miles and they charge 3. -4 k to replace all the gaskets because they have to take the engine out to do it. A third mechanic refused to even look at it.
Doesn't every Cadillac with a northstar smoke and burn oil? I always figured it was because the elderly owners never serviced them.
Time serts. The Fiero swap guys used to "sell" the kit to each other at cost for head gasket repairs. IIRC the cooling system came with factory stop leak style pellets in it to deal with block porosity. Sweet motor when spun up though.
Well, the XLR ran a 4.4L version with a supercharger. Just like with other expensive marques that depreciate quickly, deferred maintenance seems to be the main killer with Northstars. I don't think they're necessarily flawed from the factory a la HT4100.
They all need new head bolts/studs at some point. Apparently they pull out of the aluminum block.
How timely, just this morning I asked a lady I know where her Caddy went. She traded it in after excessive oil consumption at 80K. Yup, it was a Northstar. We talked Bimmer lust for a while... what a classy lady.
I love all the ideas for making the Eldorado crazier. I think you could go all Mosler Twinstar on one for even more fun.
DD reliability does not equal to Le Chump reliability. A lot of indestructable engines (SBC, 22R, slant 6) suck in crapcan racing.
IMHO, the only known Northstar problem that could cause problems in crapcan racing would be overheating. That usually kills the head-gaskets instantly.
The other known issues of oil leakage, and consumption whouldn't be a problem in racing.
As for the rest of the car???? the very high front tire wear and crazy fuel consumption could get old really fast. That's why I wouldn't bother with a third pedal at first. If it turns out to be a fun endurance car after a few races, then look into what the Fiero guys do.
But for the E36 M3 and giggles, I don't see any reason not to build a Northstar Caddy into a race car.
I owned a 98 Eldo Touring Coupe...FWD...NorthStar is a wonderful engine running but they are die cast aluminum that turns to powder and the headbolts have a fine pitch thread and the engine case is split so they leak oil eventually no matter what...but I've always wanted to take a crack at a racer version...I say go for it
Anyone remember the all aluminum Vega engine? So GM puts 2 of them in V and calls it a N*. Has the same problems a Vega had. They sound nice at 7k rpm though.
fanfoy wrote: DD reliability does not equal to Le Chump reliability. A lot of indestructable engines (SBC, 22R, slant 6) suck in crapcan racing.
This. Engines normally described indestructible on the street often crumble under LeMons conditions. Honda and Toyota don't have a great reputation on the track. However, some of that is the way the drivers treat them. They rev the living E36 M3 out of them, figuring they're indestructible. Our Civic motor now has at least a dozen races on it. Prior to being in our car, it was been pulled out of a junkyard and street driven for a lot of miles. We just don't run it to 7000rpm.
The N*, especially the early ones, were really crappy street motors. I don't know how often they've been run in Le Chump. I'd agree my biggest worry would be keeping it cool, and keeping it oiled. Keep the revs 500 below redline.
I hear a lot of sand rail guys use them for some reason.
What I've heard about them is that they can be made bullet proof reliable, but it costs big $$$$ and/or a lot of time and effort. At that point it still weights more than an aluminum LSx and doesn't really make more power.
If I came across one that already had the reliability mods done to it, for cheap, I'd take a chance on it, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
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