Before- 1928 (Hex) Ex-Dragoon 91/30
No scope, Czech ammo 50yds. To me a proper group is atleast 5 shots. This was my last 3 rds of the day. <img src="" />
After- Can fire Sub-MOA with Soviet or handloads
Even with crappy ex-military 7.62-54R ammo I've never owned a more accurate rifle than my Mosin-Nagant(s).
(Plural sort of... Actually I've never fired my pre-revolution one... still packed in cosmoline....)
Very nice Bob have you done any other work to the rifle to get it sub MOA? I'm going to get a 91/30 soon, actually more than likely order one as soon as I'm done up training some fish wildlife guys over the next 2 weeks. Hmmm come to think of it there are 2 Big 5 Sports on my way maybe I will just pick one up on the way.
Well damn I just checked the adds and they have them on sale ending Saturday. Closest location is about 80 miles away so I will have to make a trip it looks like tomorrow.
That bolt knob clears that scope set up? I thought that if you wanted to mount a scope you needed a "sniper" bolt knob that was bent down enough to clear the scope when it moves backward?
Sub MOA with a nugget is very hard to believe, what exactly have you done to the gun? I have NEVER heard of one getting that close even with LOTS of work. And by lots of work i mean a re-barrel, trigger job, bedded action, nice crown, and free floated barrel.
I have seen many sub MOA Mosin rifles that have had very little work. One that I saw with quite a bit of work could stack three shots in the space a dime would cover. Heck my M44 is darn close to MOA.
Bob what is the scope mount you are using on that Mosin? The scope you linked to in the other thread shows a mount does that come with it? I'm thinking I might try this route for the one I'm going to pick up considering it costs so much less than an original PU setup.
Put me in the "Moist Nugget shooting sub-MOA?!" camp too. I've pawed over a bunch (they're fun!) and wouldn't describe accuracy as a strong point.
Sub-MOA is a hard thing to reach for most Mosins. You have to lighten and smooth the trigger, bed the reciver and float the barrel and add the 3rd point of contact at the end of the barrel unless you shorten it, its best to remove the top hand guard, somtimes re-crown. If you shooting it, you have to find the mil-surp ammo that your particular gun likes. Mine likes Soviet(Russian), My dads likes Polish and Czech.
It takes work
Here is what I did- First off its a ex-dragoon gun, made much better then the later WW2 jobs
I did the 3-point touch with a float up till the foward touch, with steel on the reciver and oiled felt out on the end to limit the stringing you can see in the 3 shot picture. I reiterate, the 3 shot was done before I did anything to the gun.
The Sub-moa can only be done slow. The long barrel on the 91/30 with the stock it has makes stringing an issue, hence the 3-point. The Finns fixed this with better stocks and cut down barrels. All the action on the bolt has been polished and runs smooth with or without laqured ammo. The trigger has been touched, I got a spring from a guy to make a easy 2 stage trigger and final pull is set at 2 1/2 to 3 lbs depending on temperature. A bit light, but these triggers you cant go back, hence the spring.
GRM terms- She... ehh... aint stock
References for non-belivers-
Doubt me all you want, I am cool with that. But dont doubt Mosins in general. This is not me, just to show its possible
A few of the my links ive saved from my mosin project.
Trigger polishing to lose the grit. Cutting the spring is NOT needed if you file the sear correctly.
i didnt do this, but I would If I were to do it all over again
Metal 3 point touch and floating the barrel in the stock Also basics for the trigger work
I forgot to add, in the posted pictures the bent bolt needed for the scope conversion is not shown. At the time I didnt have it.
And no, I dont play Enemy at the Gates with it, but thats just cause I lost it in a tragic boating accident recently...
Why would anyone 'want' a mosin? They are so cheap, if you want one, you should already have one! Good for picking of zombies a long way away.
Joey
I have one question about Mosins. I've heard from many sources that the kick on them is almost unbearable for people with a small frame (I'm 5'8" 160lbs). I've also heard that, "Real men enjoy having bruised shoulders". Forgive me for being a sissy, but that doesn't sound fun. Everything else about Mosins sounds great. If I do get one I'll definitely be, whats the term, sporterizing it?
I love my Mosin, but its just stock and I haven't done anything to it. It is accurate though. I want one more to do a Monte Carlo stock switch and sporterize. great guns for the money, but heavy and cumbersome, not the most fun to cart around.
In reply to Drewsifer:
In Soviet Russia, rifle shoot you.
The recoil really is about the same as any service rifle from the era. 7.62X54 doesn't make any more recoil impulse than .30-'06, .303 British, 8X57 Mauser, etc. for the same bullet weights and similar weight rifles. A lot of the problem is in the square-edged steel buttplates and the fact that you aren't wearing a heavy winter coat.
Dr Hess is right: A little rubber goes a long way.
It appears that there is much more your claim than i originally gave you credit for. I am a member of several gun forums and extravagant claims about accuracy and personal skill often come up, and the nugget pops up in these posts from time to time.
My personal experiences with these rifles has been less than stellar. most of the guns i have seen were in pretty bad shape with questionable bores so have usually written these guns off as 3-5 inch guns.
What exactly is the point if the 3rd end contact point? i have toyed with the idea of sporterizing one of these but i did not think you could make them into decent sporting guns. Are the pre-WWII guns significantly more accurate than the post guns? Also does anyone make decent stock for the gun?
Yeah as others have mentioned it is mostly because you are firing a service rifle from the early 1900's not a modern auto where much of the recoil is absorbed by the action of the rifle. Then there is that handy little metal butt plate. Some rifles received heavier than normal stocks that helped some as well.
For those that are really looking to get a really good Mosin some of the best are those that were captured by the Finns and worked over in their armories, normally receiving new barrels in the process. Some Mosin rifles will shoot great right out of the box when you get it, normally this means it was worked over by a soldier in the past. My M44 is a good example of this, the action is smooth as silk and the trigger pull, while heavier than the 2.5 lbs on my Weatherby, is smooth and crisp.
There are some products out there to help make your Mosin more accurate. A match trigger and stronger firing pin spring can be found on the Midway site. Bent bolt bodies, a very good modern scope mount and aluminum bedding posts can be had from Rock Solid.
Surplus ammo is great for just plinking around and having a good time considering how dirt cheap it is. However if you want accurate just like with any rifle you will want to hand load. Once I get my reloading press setup I will be buying some Lapua brass and Sierra Match King bullets.
To temp you into what you could do with a Mosin take a look at this.
JohnGalt wrote: It appears that there is much more your claim than i originally gave you credit for. I am a member of several gun forums and extravagant claims about accuracy and personal skill often come up, and the nugget pops up in these posts from time to time. My personal experiences with these rifles has been less than stellar. most of the guns i have seen were in pretty bad shape with questionable bores so have usually written these guns off as 3-5 inch guns. What exactly is the point if the 3rd end contact point? i have toyed with the idea of sporterizing one of these but i did not think you could make them into decent sporting guns. Are the pre-WWII guns significantly more accurate than the post guns? Also does anyone make decent stock for the gun?
I understand completely, Obviously I cruise the forums a bunch, Ive seen it plenty. Frankly, its why I usually shut up about it, until asked like this instance.
There are stocks for the gun, but frankly, If you want to sporterize a Mosin WITHOUT a scope, buy a Finn model. Finn Mosins These are accurate like mine out of the box, cut down to a length where the harmonics are right, and there for the foward point of tension is not needed, and is inherently more accurate. M28's can be found for 2-3 hundred, depending on market.
If you want to scope a Mosin, then go with one of the WW2 era rifles. Yes, these have history, but they all do, and most other models have way more. The 3 points are the bottom of the 2 main bolts on the reciver, where the screw holes are to tie it to the magazine, and almost the end of the barrell. The Soviets used to put 3 peices of oiled felt there to "Bed" it. I suggest you make plates for the reciver, and use the felt or something similar upfront. I got this info from a translated Soviet MN accurising manual i found online. I cant seem to find the link, i may not have saved it. Im sure if you cruise the forums it will pop up
joey48442 wrote: Why would anyone 'want' a mosin? They are so cheap, if you want one, you should already have one! Good for picking of zombies a long way away.
Okay. Let's say I'm someone who has never purchased a firearm before. How cheap are we talking? Where does one look? And what should I look for or avoid when picking one out?
I'm also in Cali and live in an apartment, so I don't know if that will cause an issues getting one shipped. (I need to check my lease agreement for any issues with firearms. Not that I particularly care, but I won't have a rifle shipped here, where it will probably be delivered to the office, if they're going to frown uppon it. I'm already technically in violation for keeping my race car here.)
In reply to Salanis:
For how cheap we are talking that in some places the prices for a 91/30 start at around $70, for the carbine models (38 and 44) you are looking at $125-150 starting price. Ammo is pennies a round for surplus stuff.
To have one shipped to your home you will need to get a Curio and Relic FFL. If you don't want to do that and can't find one local most of your local gun shops will do the transfer for a small fee. Locally check places like Big 5 Sports that commonly carry the rifles and then your gun shops that take in trades etc.
As mentioned the Finns are most desirable along with most of the carbine models, snipers and ex snipers (will have a drilled receiver but no scope mounted, drilled holes may be filled) are also sought after ones. Check the 7.62x54r.net website for basically every shred of information you could ever help to find on these rifles (at least in stock forms they get grumpy about modifying).
rebelgtp wrote: To have one shipped to your home you will need to get a Curio and Relic FFL. If you don't want to do that and can't find one local most of your local gun shops will do the transfer for a small fee. Locally check places like Big 5 Sports that commonly carry the rifles and then your gun shops that take in trades etc.
Big 5 and other such are actually decent places? I know I've seen them have a few rifles behind the counter, but have always been a bit wary that maybe what they carry isn't so great.
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