If the pins are the pressed in type, like my Astro has on the rear doors, it's almost hopeless. You may have to sawzall the pins and then drill out the upper end which will be a really tight press fit. They're the biggest PITA to get out, I never did get the door off the Astro.
DeadSkunk wrote: If the pins are the pressed in type, like my Astro has on the rear doors, it's almost hopeless. You may have to sawzall the pins and then drill out the upper end which will be a really tight press fit. They're the biggest PITA to get out, I never did get the door off the Astro.
I was hoping there might be a tool to push/press them out with. I've tried to knock them out before and they bent in the hinge.
wheels777 wrote:DeadSkunk wrote: If the pins are the pressed in type, like my Astro has on the rear doors, it's almost hopeless. You may have to sawzall the pins and then drill out the upper end which will be a really tight press fit. They're the biggest PITA to get out, I never did get the door off the Astro.I was hoping there might be a tool to push/press them out with. I've tried to knock them out before and they bent in the hinge.
Here's a kit for the 2G Firebird. How different could it be?
http://www.hingekits.com/search/Pontiac/1979/Firebird/2%20Door
In reply to EvanR:
Linky no worky
wheels777 wrote: What's the trick to removing door hinge pins? The hinges are welded.
Used heat and a air hammer on my Chevy van but the hinges were on the outside so probably easier to get to.It was still a tough job
I'd advise removing the door to change pins.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: I'd advise removing the door to change pins.
I think his problem is that the hinges are welded to the car and the door, that's the way my Astro is. It's a real PITA.
DeadSkunk wrote:Kenny_McCormic wrote: I'd advise removing the door to change pins.I think his problem is that the hinges are welded to the car and the door, that's the way my Astro is. It's a real PITA.
Correct. Both sides are welded. And the pin can not be driven straight out. Is there a removal tool/puller.?
Huh, never heard of that, even my POS J body had hinges bolted on.
Maybe fabricate a support block from steel to fit around the pin in the middle of the hinge, like a really thick walled chunk of C channel, to help prevent bending anything and make the hammer blows more effective.
Picked up (2) 8.8" rears and an additional short axle. (1)4.10 and (1)3.73, both 31 spline posi units - $220. Still looking for a torque arm.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: Huh, never heard of that, even my POS J body had hinges bolted on. Maybe fabricate a support block from steel to fit around the pin in the middle of the hinge, like a really thick walled chunk of C channel, to help prevent bending anything and make the hammer blows more effective.
good idea.
wheels777 wrote:DeadSkunk wrote:Correct. Both sides are welded. And the pin can not be driven straight out. Is there a removal tool/puller.?Kenny_McCormic wrote: I'd advise removing the door to change pins.I think his problem is that the hinges are welded to the car and the door, that's the way my Astro is. It's a real PITA.
Entertainment at its best...the Formula has this kind of steering wheel. I was taking to a guy who said they are worth $300. I couldn't argue or agree. So, I searched for one on eBay. We watched the auction to the close, It sold for more than I bought the car for. I don't want to sell the wheel, but it would zero the budget in a hurry.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970s-PONTIAC-FIREBIRD-TRANS-AM-BLACK-FORMULA-STEERING-WHEEL-MINT-ORIGINAL-/321255638813?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=Xqg8gFE35a3ubxWxhpiaCm250xk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_408wt_1362
Each door girder is 20.5#. 41# gone there. Each door weighed 96.5#. That's will change.
wheels777 wrote: Entertainment at its best...the Formula has this kind of steering wheel. I was taking to a guy who said they are worth $300. I couldn't argue or agree. So, I searched for one on eBay. We watched the auction to the close, It sold for more than I bought the car for. I don't want to sell the wheel, but it would zero the budget in a hurry. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970s-PONTIAC-FIREBIRD-TRANS-AM-BLACK-FORMULA-STEERING-WHEEL-MINT-ORIGINAL-/321255638813?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=Xqg8gFE35a3ubxWxhpiaCm250xk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_408wt_1362
A good factory Formula wheel can get stupid money from the resto crowd, especially the colored ones. You can also buy a way nicer reproduction that's got a fatter grip and that's wrapped in real leather for around $150 from Lecarra Wheels if you can settle for a black wheel. I need to get a new one for my Trans Am someday, and I was just going to get a reproduction black wheel. My stock wheel is a hard to find color (Dark Carmine Red) and getting a nice one will probably cost me north of $1k! 
SilverFleet wrote:wheels777 wrote: Entertainment at its best...the Formula has this kind of steering wheel. I was taking to a guy who said they are worth $300. I couldn't argue or agree. So, I searched for one on eBay. We watched the auction to the close, It sold for more than I bought the car for. I don't want to sell the wheel, but it would zero the budget in a hurry. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970s-PONTIAC-FIREBIRD-TRANS-AM-BLACK-FORMULA-STEERING-WHEEL-MINT-ORIGINAL-/321255638813?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=Xqg8gFE35a3ubxWxhpiaCm250xk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_408wt_1362A good factory Formula wheel can get stupid money from the resto crowd, especially the colored ones. You can also buy a way nicer reproduction that's got a fatter grip and that's wrapped in real leather for around $150 from Lecarra Wheels if you can settle for a black wheel. I need to get a new one for my Trans Am someday, and I was just going to get a reproduction black wheel. My stock wheel is a hard to find color (Dark Carmine Red) and getting a nice one will probably cost me north of $1k!
Oh my! Mine is black. When the headers sell, I would be happy to sell the wheel to you for the difference. I paid $300 for the car, and don't need to make a profit on the car. I just want to zero the budget.
wheels777 wrote: Picked up (2) 8.8" rears and an additional short axle. (1)4.10 and (1)3.73, both 31 spline posi units - $220. Still looking for a torque arm.
What did the 8.8s come out of? Shirley you don't need two. Yes, I am serious and called you Shirley. 
Edit... plenty of torque arms under third and fourth gen. F-body cars for cheap.
hrdlydangerous wrote:wheels777 wrote: Picked up (2) 8.8" rears and an additional short axle. (1)4.10 and (1)3.73, both 31 spline posi units - $220. Still looking for a torque arm.What did the 8.8s come out of? Shirley you don't need two. Yes, I am serious and called you Shirley.
Exploders. One for turbo/NO2 engine, one for the NA. May sell and buy more. Yard had a bunch of 4.10 and 3.73s. Still looking for a 3.55:1 for drag, and 2.73 for more zoom.
Torque Arm. I have 4 stamped steel factory vesions. Looking for something tubular.
Your fabrication skills and you haven't just made a tubular torque arm? For shame. 
hrdlydangerous wrote: Your fabrication skills and you haven't just made a tubular torque arm? For shame.
I've made enough of them to know to ask first! Sent a text with some pics. If I could post 'em I would.
How many bolts hold a front bumper on a 80 Sunbird? How 'bout 30.
wheels777 wrote: How many bolts hold a front bumper on a 80 Sunbird? How 'bout 30.
Spinout007 wrote:wheels777 wrote: How many bolts hold a front bumper on a 80 Sunbird? How 'bout 30.
Ya, I know, I counted them.
wheels777 wrote:SilverFleet wrote:Oh my! Mine is black. When the headers sell, I would be happy to sell the wheel to you for the difference. I paid $300 for the car, and don't need to make a profit on the car. I just want to zero the budget.wheels777 wrote: Entertainment at its best...the Formula has this kind of steering wheel. I was taking to a guy who said they are worth $300. I couldn't argue or agree. So, I searched for one on eBay. We watched the auction to the close, It sold for more than I bought the car for. I don't want to sell the wheel, but it would zero the budget in a hurry. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970s-PONTIAC-FIREBIRD-TRANS-AM-BLACK-FORMULA-STEERING-WHEEL-MINT-ORIGINAL-/321255638813?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=Xqg8gFE35a3ubxWxhpiaCm250xk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_408wt_1362A good factory Formula wheel can get stupid money from the resto crowd, especially the colored ones. You can also buy a way nicer reproduction that's got a fatter grip and that's wrapped in real leather for around $150 from Lecarra Wheels if you can settle for a black wheel. I need to get a new one for my Trans Am someday, and I was just going to get a reproduction black wheel. My stock wheel is a hard to find color (Dark Carmine Red) and getting a nice one will probably cost me north of $1k!
I'm interested, but it depends on the price and all that stuff. I kinda promised myself I wouldn't touch my Trans Am until my CSX is done. Also, money is tight right now with Christmas and stuff. Got any pics?
wheels777 wrote: How many bolts hold a front bumper on a 80 Sunbird? How 'bout 30.
How many of those bolts were rusted solid? How 'bout 30.
What a PITA.
You'll need to log in to post.
