1995 Camaro Z28 Challenge Project, The White Trash Camaro

I think I got bump stops from gmpartsdirect. OE ones were like 40 or 50 bucks. Some people use some polyurethane jeep ones that are pretty cheap. Most of the handling gurus dont recommend them because they are too hard.

The need for LCA relocation brackets is to reposition the LCAs after lowering a vehicle. You want the control arm to be level to the ground at ride height, or slightly lower at the rear. Normally it's done to cure wheel hop. I was lowered and never installed them, because just replacing the bushing with solid rubbers ones cured all the axle hop i had. If it were me I would run factory arms (maybe box them), with the cheapest set of 1LE style bushings, 1le style bushing are solid, factory ones have windows.

If you need a factory arm, literally everyone on ls1tech puts tubular aftermarket arms on with poly bushings because they think they are better, you could probably get an arm for free.

Part of me was wondering if I should make up the brackets because I can do it cheap and maybe get some engineering points....otherwise this has been a big repair job!!

Don't worry it will drive so much better. I hated driving my z once the V8 power drunkenness wore off because of the way it rode. Loved it after the suspension build.

Need for adjustable rear panhard bar?

I lowered the back about 2" or so, using my trusty graph paper and compass I drew out the panhard bar curves for stock and for being about 2" lower (scaling worked out to 2.26"). Will also draw it up and CAD so I can get some better resolution but this was quick for what I had.

At level I get that it will be about 0.100" off along with the following:

Movement (compression) Stock Axle Movement Lowered Axle Movement Delta -2.25" 0.280" 0.370" 0.09" -4.5" 0.470" 0.658" 0.188"

Given the build tolerance and general state of the car I question if this is even going to matter?? The parts are probably worn enough to counter this?

Or do I need to fab up a panhard bar?? Thoughts?? Any suggestions on what chassis point to use for a reference if I try and measure the actual axle placement?

Thanks, Dan

bitchin camaro.

That's WAY to we'll researched and mathed out for me to know. I lowered it and a tire rubbed. I bought a adjustable Panhard bar and adjusted it til it didn't rub. Voila done. If it doesn't rub which it probably won't if you're on stock wheels, I don't think it'd be a big deal. Maybe throw off thrust angle.

Founders had them really cheap I think I paid 100 bucks for a poly/poly on car adjustable one. It's about the only place poly is okay on the 4th gen.

The guys at frrax.com lower the Panhard bar supposed to make a big difference. You could look into that.

If you plan on fabbing one I would just make it adjustable that way if your calculations are a little off you can just slide up under the car and change it.

I really like your build. Saw this car this morning and thought I'd share... It's a '93 Z28 with 24k actual miles on it its an auto, Second owner. Not digging the Vette wheels but clean, straight all original car...

Looks very familiar, but missing the dents! The vette wheels are a cheap way to get the 17s you want though.

Panhard Bar Arc's to scale. Old school....do kids even know what graph paper and a compass is anymore?

I think your over thinking this man. I'm pretty sure the Panhard bar only centers the rear, and people only adjust it to prevent rubbing.

People lower it to lower the roll center IIRC.

I drove around with sagging ass stock springs (as low as my bmrs) for 6 years with the factory Panhard bar. It was fine. Lined up fine, tracked fine, handled fine. Just rubbed a little with 275s. When I did the bmrs I did the adj phb to stop the rubbing. Only difference I noticed.

Getting tight on budget, so filled in the rear bushings with black RTV and made some bump stops out of old conveyor belt from work. Might not hit at the right point, but better then metal on metal.

Does anyone remember an article on fixing the foam in seats? Cant remember if it is GRM or some other.

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You're right the conveyor belt is probably better than the backing plate most 4th gens are rolling with since the foam is long gone on most cars. I bet the RTV just gets squished out, maybe consider some of the softest poly you can find.

Ive tried rtv before. But it was on motor mounts. Didn't seem to do much. Window weld worked too good.

Been a while since a post but I have been chasing a brake line debacle. Got everything back together and a brake line blew...go figure. So chewed on into it and the plumbing mess continued. 6mm line running up the center of the car, going to a rubber hose splitting to 3/16" double inverted flare to the lines at the rear calipers.

So got the line from the rubber hose back straightened out but thought the main line running back was 1/4" which it was not!!! After flaring at least 5 times I compared the flare I could make on a true 1/4" line to what I was able to make on the factory line, not even close. At that point the "light bulb" went on that it was 6mm and had ended at 6mm bubble at the hose.

This was after getting the right fitting to connect to the hose and a 3/16" to bubble flare adapter for that end then trying 1/4" nut with a 1/4" to 3/16" adapter on the other end. Why do they need so many different fitting types!!! I think it is to sell more beer!

Here is 1/4" tube in metric on the caliper.

Here is 6mm tube.

So after much swearing and quite a few beers I now have a piece of metric tubing with bubble flares. However no one where I live has a metric floor tool I can loan or buy, enter Amazon.com and prime shipping.

So I think GRM should do a nice article on brake line sizes, fittings, adapters, forming tools and repair. If there had been such a thing in my back issues I would have referenced it and kept my beer budget in line.

dankimber wrote: Does anyone remember an article on fixing the foam in seats? Cant remember if it is GRM or some other.

Other? What is this? I dont understand...other...I dont even....

What do you know bubble tool on metric line and everything seals up. Bleed the rear brakes with my daughter but there must still be more air in the system.

Brake lines are now holding but the pedal slowly drifts to the floor, guess it is time for the master cylinder, nothing like more brake bleeding.

While waiting for the part decided to see if I could work some magic on the drivers side seat. GM seat foam from 1995 isnt holding up well!!

Now I know what those things poking me in the sides where, bolsters!!! Who knew!

Some ghetto seat repair using left over foam from work. Will see how it holds, zero dollars for the foam, and a few cents for the racing tape.

Homemade panhard installed. A quick dump of the misc fastener buckets netted some nut spacers.

Now have to figure out what to use as a reference to center the axle. I am surprised how easy the car body moves just turning the tubing.

I think the brakes have turned into my biggest nemesis on this car. After the rear line, and a lot of bleeding they still felt mushy. Enter new master cylinder and even more bleeding. Have to love ABS pumps!!

At least it gave my daughter something to do....

Evenings Project Lined Up for a Few dollars Spent at Radio Shack

http://www.trifectaperformance.com/tech/LT1TransmissionPerformanceMode.htm

Headed out to the local autocross tomorrow at Devens MA with the NER SCCA.

Looks like the only test run before the event. Need to figure out a way to reduce the tongue weight a bit before I tow it to FL.

Reverse it on?

back the car up about a foot or two until the tongue weight is right... looks like plenty of room on there.

If it's the straps your worried about with moving the car, Harbor Freight sells 2" ratchet straps for pretty cheap. 4 of them and you can position the car on the trailer where it balances correctly. That trailer is big enough to balance an extended cab F150 on!

Survived the day without breaking the car. Front stuck really well, but it is an exercise in throttle patience.

Need to double check all of the suspension bolts now.

Picked up a trial of some tuner software and cable. Might try to modify the shift tables so it doesnt drop to 1st gear during a run unless you park it.

Ended up about 1.5 sec behind some new mustangs both mildly modded with much fresher R comps. Wish I had ground the lower A arm bolts some more could have used a touch more negative camber.

Spaced the car back with some 4X4s and it got somewhat better. Might end up taking the tie down advice.

Starting list of stuff to bring with, wife suggested title and bill of sale!

dankimber wrote: Evenings Project Lined Up for a Few dollars Spent at Radio Shack http://www.trifectaperformance.com/tech/LT1TransmissionPerformanceMode.htm

good idea.