FYI that's the wrong puller, but you already figured that out
FYI that's the wrong puller, but you already figured that out
Patrick said:FYI that's the wrong puller, but you already figured that out
Yeah. I really have no idea what I'm doing. I'm just a hack learning as I go. Perhaps the readers at home can learn something from me as I go along. Even if it's only how NOT to do something.
--- Go Team Barely Functional ---
In reply to Indy-Guy :
A wise man learns from his mistakes.
Indy-Guy said:Patrick said:FYI that's the wrong puller, but you already figured that out
Yeah. I really have no idea what I'm doing. I'm just a hack learning as I go. Perhaps the readers at home can learn something from me as I go along. Even if it's only how NOT to do something.
Me too.
Mistakes or not, I’m still enjoying this build!
In reply to RandolphCarter & Recon1342:
Thanks guys. I've been hanging around this site for a long time, first as a lurker and now some what active. While I'm pretty good at maintaing my cars and doing some upgrades here and there, this is the first project car that I've tackled going to require some real fabrication and that's getting an LS. I've learned a good deal from others on here while they plug along with the first or twenty first project car. So I'm documenting all my successes and failures here to be completely transparent.
Speaking of failures: The F-body pan won't clear the Truck Windage Tray. Patrick thought they were compatible, but they're not.
Anyone have an F-body windage tray for cheap? (or know which ones are interchangeable?)
How close is it? Might not need ALL of the windage tray...
Apparently you cut the front section off just ahead of the 2nd main cap bolts and have to notch the truck one for the pickup tube bracket, and the truck one becomes the f body one.
i recall doing this once. I would have brought you one but it got mangled by the crank counterweight breaking off
Patrick said:Apparently you cut the front section off just ahead of the 2nd main cap bolts and have to notch the truck one for the pickup tube bracket, and the truck one becomes the f body one.
i recall doing this once. I would have brought you one but it got mangled by the crank counterweight breaking off
Got it. I'll pull the pan back off and do some trimming. Thanks !
It's a good thing you guys convinced me to replace the front seal. Timing chain cover gasket:
Pro-tip from Summit racing website/instructions: heat the balancer in the oven at 250 degrees for 15 minutes. Made installation SO much easier:
And here are some bonus shots of the crank/rod ends with the windage tray removed:
Up next: trim windage tray and bolt transmission on, then first test fit
WTF is going on with that flex plate?
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Cool move with the oven. I wore out an elbow trying to whack one on with a 5lb deadblow and a block of wood. And of course the installation puller that worked with LS motors was damaged, probably from trying to get those suckers on at room temp.
In reply to barefootskater :
A stripped out torque converter bolt. I had to cut the flexplate off to get the transmission out. More information about that saga over in the Humpie, the LS donor thread
In reply to Knurled:
Credit goes to Summit Racing and their installation instructions for that. Hopefully that nugget of a tip makes up for the puller misinformation. 
The biggest thing I've learned in the last year is heat is your friend.
Stampie said:The biggest thing I've learned in the last year is heat is your friend.
You shoulda seen me trying to press the bearing races into the aluminum pinion support for my 9". Wasn't happening even with a 20 ton press.
Put the support in an oven at 250 degrees for several minutes. Bearing race fell right in. Then fell right back out again when I flipped it over to put in the other one.
Aluminum has 3x the expansion rate of steel, so steel races need a huge press fit at room temp to keep from rattling around at operating temp...
Windage tray trimmed. Pan fits now.
Transmission successfully mated to engine ( note: no flywheel or clutch in there yet)
Ok, let's see if this lump will fit in there yet.....
Well, we've got some more cutting to do. Here's some pics of the interferences:
I don't think I've ever seen an LS look so MASSIVE hahaha
Serious question. Is it
I've heard it, and said it, both ways.
Winning!!!!!
In reply to AxeHealey :
Wind-idge, like the wind in the crankcase blowing around. (If there's 5.3 liters of displacement on top of the pistons, there's 5.3 liters underneath them too, and they are blowing on the bowl of oil under the crank)
I wish you were closer so we could have motor mount and crossmember 101 class with the kids.
Explain header selection? Guessing you know stuff I don't about the application requirements, but they do not look like a tight tuck design.
Pete
Patrick said:I wish you were closer so we could have motor mount and crossmember 101 class with the kids.
Well I guess we'll have to do a remote "e-learning" class. I've got this whole week off work, so the plan is to get the engine/transmission located (after more trimming) measure everything, test fit hood, and then prep for taking the body off.
NOHOME said:Explain header selection? Guessing you know stuff I don't about the application requirements, but they do not look like a tight tuck design.
Pete
100% Price based. These were less than $64 shipped and described as "block huggers". But I agree. They're not as tight to the block as I expected.
I REALLY don't want to be forced to learn to fabricate headers on this, so I'll apply liberal cutting before I abandon these for something else.
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