Anyway. I want to replace my steering column. I am not happy with rebuilding the GM one, and I want tilt, and it would be even better if I could have an easy way to retrofit electric power steering, and I believe that aftermarket columns are more expensive than they are worth, and I somewhat doubt that the quality is OEM spec.
Does anyone have any thoughts?
Getting back to this. Not sure if you already have a powered steering box or not. But I am starting to look at power steering options for the Molvo and this Volvo electric power steering pump is looking like a viable option. Easy enough to install and I have a spare Miata power rack kicking around.
Does there exist a fuel filter with check valve which has tube fittings (not hose barbs) at either end?
I like the in-carb filter, but I don't like its size.
In the bad old days, the first thing we did was ditch the in-carb filter on those, and run a Fram G15 metal (or plastic, whatever number it is... G3?) down by the fuel pump. The carb ones tended to plug up too quickly.
On my '77 I figured I would buck what I knew, and run the in-carb filter (I mean, do it like the General intended, eh?) but the two that I ran both had some sort of check-valve issue inside, so I gave up and run the G15.
Your carb is missing the fuel line inlet fitting?
In reply to NOHOME :
I recently heard about these Volvo electric P/S pumps. I am curious and wish to learn more. Supposedly Mustang guys run them sometimes when pump mounting to the engine isn't feasible. Are they adjustable? Are they rack/ steering box agnostic? What is the power draw?
EDIT: IIRC tuna's truck's steering box is decidedly manual. So he'd still have to source and retrofit some sort of power box/ rack.
Leaving the steering as is for now. I have to get it further along before I get analysis paralysis again.
In other news, the clutch z bar got new balls and is reinstalled. Pending cotter pin.
And wow, the bayonet style shifter stinks. It's supposed to be easy, you shove a thin thing into either side and slide the lever out, but not when it looks like this. When it does, you hammer like it owes you money, with shims in place.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) :
You seem to know about as much as I do about them.
I am on the fence with converting the Molvo to PS. Really want to try a manual rack to see if that is good enough, but not having any luck finding a used one.
NOHOME said:In reply to volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) :
You seem to know about as much as I do about them.
I am on the fence with converting the Molvo to PS. Really want to try a manual rack to see if that is good enough, but not having any luck finding a used one.
I picked up the manual rack on Craigslist. It was local to me, but the fellow still shipped it, and was reasonable. I see some on eBay occasionally, and there's always www.car-part.com.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) :
It's the Canada thing. Doubles any price on your side of the border.
Does anyone know what pressure a Miata rack likes to operate at?
I got the filter and stuff in there, and assembled the fuel line. I don't love the small filter, even tunakid 1 said "Dad, the one in the lawn mower is bigger than this", but I figure I like the check valve, and like the seamless look of the line, and the engine may make 150 hp.
What I'd like is a filter that looked like it belonged there with a tube fitting on either end, I absolutely don't want a big chrome filter, rubber hose, and clamps.
Meanwhile I sent off the shifter to Hurst and bought some cotter pins.
Can you hide a filter down by the pump? Or somewhere along the frame? Not as good as right before the carb, but better than nothing and may make the tiny one last longer.
Glad to see you back at this!!
In reply to java230 :
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I think you both may be on to something. That filter mounted way low would work perfectly. I'll have to figure out what ends I should use with it.
Last night kid #2 and I spent some time just cleaning up the shifter bracket, the lever, and the rods. Nothing special to show, but good bonding time.
Kid 1 and I installed the rebuilt shifter tonight. It doesn't feel wonderful, honestly, but I will grease it and fill the transmission soon.
Hurst rebuilt it for $200. I still need a new knob though. Pics are sparse.
The kids and I put in a little bit of time today and made sure everything works properly. The shifter works a lot better after being greased, and I found the parts to look up the clutch linkage in the z bar properly.
I'm getting close to being able to move this thing, brakes are next, but one strange thing I can't quite figure out is how to handle the seat. It's rather hard to drive on a big orange bucket, but I don't want to spend the money on a real seat yet either, nor do I have a ton of space to store a bench seat from a junkyard, has anyone done this with like a metal folding chair for temporary use? I just need to be able to drive it to the driveway and back.
Let's suppose I decided to take the advice from here and bent my own brake lines. What is the BOM of stuff to buy? I need lines, obviously. What fittings? Flaring tool for less than $Texas? Bender? I'd like to replace my proportioning valve with something adjustable but also not super noticeable blingy racy, the stock piece is a weirdly mounted block sitting at a strange angle off the master cylinder.
Start with catalog from National Parts Depot or anyone else that supplies resto stuff for those trucks. Or maybe even just perusing rockauto.com will identify the tube diameters and fitting dimensions.
then search amazon for Nicopp tubing in that diameter. You'll need a flaring kit for doing SAE double flares. You'll need all the tube nuts, and you'll probably want a mess of those little tube clamps whose name always escapes me.
Nicopp is easy to bend, just make your radii as large as possible to reduce kinks.
Stock prop valve probably also contains a shuttle switch that turns on the red BRAKE warning light in case of a failed circuit. you'll have to decide if you feel OK not having that warning, because an aftermarket adjustable valve won't have it.
What angry said.
Don't buy the cheapest adjustable prop valve on Ebay. If you do, take it apart and clean all the swarf and debris out before installing. Ask me how i know, and how many times I know.
You can borrow my mastercool kit if needed for flares, but the nicopp flares beautifully by hand. And is almost impossible to kink in my experience.
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